1950 Chevy panel with IFS project

[Michael_e]

As title states, I want to convert my straight axle 1950 Chevy panel truck to an IFS system. Here are some of the requirements I'm after. Side note-I'm looking at a LQ4/4l60e drive train, but that will be in a different thread.

I want my panel truck to be my daily driver and shop truck. I want to be able to cruse down the highway at 75 or so and track straight and true and a ride that is somewhat close to that of my 1997 GMC 1/2 ton. Also, I want to be able to tow either of my trailers ( 16ft double axle flat bed and 22ft double axle enclosed trailer) with say a max load of 4k lbs. I don't plan on towing everyday. I'm guessing maybe 6-7 times a year.

So, here's the question...is there any MMII style ifs kits on the market rated higher than 1/2 ton? Are there any MMII style kits for 6 lug hubs/wheels?
Would I be ok with a 1/2 ton kit and using 11-12" rotors and matching calipers?

If there's something I'm forgetting, please advise.

Mike

[octanejunkie]

Look at Scott's Hot Rod in Oxnard, CA

[BlueJeep]

You'd probably be happy with any QUALITY IFS setup. I'd avoid the cheaper ones, and research the things people complain about and steer clear of those. Example, if you go Mustang 2 route, avoid the "traditional" style of upper control arm mounts and look for one that uses shims instead of the slots for arm adjustability.

If you wait a little bit, I believe Porterbuilt is close to having their line for the AD trucks. They typically base everything off C10 (fullsize) components vs. the industry standard mustang spindles.

Other than brake size, the front probably won't have a significant impact on the towing. I'd think with a good rear axle and suspension, you'd be fine towing the flatbed trailer. I don't think you could reasonably tow the 22' enclosed trailer though, for many reasons. My 22' enclosed trailer weighs 3750 lbs empty, that's one reason. The other reason is your wheelbase is too short, and the trailer could very easily push the back of the truck around, and that gets very un-nerving.

This of course assumes your panel is a 3100 panel and not a 3800 panel, that changes things significantly if that's what you have.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

.... if you go Mustang 2 route, avoid the "traditional" style of upper control arm mounts and look for one that uses shims instead of the slots for arm adjustability...

Not too long ago I bought a new, never-installed Fatman MII IFS kit for my '55.2. I got a GREAT deal on it off Craigslist but I didn't know about the slots vs. shims issue. I probably would have bought it anyway even if I'd known because I saved about $500. I read about the issue later.

I can't remember if I saw it here or on the HAMB but someone posted a photo of a minor modification for that type IFS kit that solves the alignment change issue that happens too easily with the slot type upper control arm mounts if you bump a curb, etc. The photo shows added vertical "ears" with nuts & bolts to prevent the "slipping" the slts can allow.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about and if so can you post a photo or a link to it?

[mr48chev]

No honestly he doesn't pay me for posting the link but This setup takes all Dodge Dakota suspension and steering. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/?p=1788

Not fancy with shiny tube a arms and what not but a solid setup that won't break the bank and ends up being a mid size truck that drives, stops and handles pretty good.

[Michael_e]

Thanks for the replies, IFS sources, and hints about control arm adjustment issues. Still looking over the field of choices. Am starting to look closer at the Dakota kit, although I would like to keep my Chevy, all Chevy.
If there are any particular IFS kits to avoid and you don't feel comfortable posting that info online, just send me a pm. And that could be issues from poor design to bad customer service.
Thanks,
Mike

[Michael_e]

Well, it's been a while since I started this thread and it seems like life has thrown me several financial hits and challenges. Such is life. I have managed to pickup a 2000 s-10 for real cheap bucks; no bed and engine has a blown head gasket. It was a 2.2 4 banger, so no great loss. My plans for an aftermarket IFS are gone. I don't have the measurements at hand, but, the
s-10 wheelbase is longer than the panel truck's wheelbase. So, it sure looks like I'm headed for a s-10 chassis swap. Where would be the best place to cut and shorten the chassis?
Thanks

[tmoble]

Michael, search around some, there's numerous threads and articles on the S-10 swap.

[yossarian19]

Being a 1950 you can...
Go to Industrial Chassis and run Dodge Dakota stuff up front,
Swap the body onto an S10 frame,
Put a C10 / C20 independent front suspension under it (cheap, easy - but wide)
Run MII stuff.

MII gear... I would look up the the inner & outer diameters of the MII's front bearings, the taper & thread diameters of the ball joints + tie rods and see about getting 12" rotors. I had the same concerns as you when it was time to choose a suspension for my '57. I'm now wondering if I'd have been better off going MII - I'd had the impression it was too weak for a work truck but I think the parts are actually stout stuff IIRC. It's the ride height that breaks the deal with me.

[Advanced Design]

Here is an excellent tutorial....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632686