Steering Column Length

[II_Slow]

I have a 55(2nd gen) cab on a Ram 2500 chassis. My dash is currently not in the truck (at the body shop with the fenders). Looking to put an IDIDIT tilt column in. What length should I get? I'm sure what every folks are using with camaro clip or Mustang front end would be fine for me as well.

[Apachemike]

When you get the correct measurement look at Summit racing steering columns. Will save you a bunch of money

[II_Slow]

Yeah I know there are cheaper columns, but not where I'm going to skimp unless I know the quality is there. I hear the jap crap sold by Speedway etc. is very poor quality, haven't heard much about Summit's stuff, not sure who manufactures them (certainly no Summit, they are just a mail order house).

[fangard]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

I hear the jap crap sold by Speedway etc. is very poor quality

Could you please elaborate on where the term "Jap Crap" came from? I have heard the term used before and I am wondering what started it, because the Japanese have been producing top quality products since the mid fifties.

Was it a world war II thing that was passed on to the next generations?

I am in my late 30's. I have learned when looking to purchase a product, I look to see if the Japanese make it. It would be GREAT if Japan made parts for our trucks.

Please advise

[skip99]

Wow

[lv2tri2]

The term is decades old, and obviously inaccurate. He may just be confused with the poor manufacturing from another part of Asia.

[HUSSEY]

How about a column from CPP? I've actually been able to source a lot of US made stuff on my build but for now, I'm planning on going with one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOT-ROD-STRE...item4187db5aa5

I like stuff made in the US but I'm also concerned with a name brand being on a product. I'm sure it's made in China at that price but hopefully CPP has a quality control program.

[II_Slow]

yeah Jap Crap is just generic term for me for any of the cheap off-shore parts - mostly Chinese knock-offs nowadays (reverse engineered stuff). Nothing really ryhmes with Chinese though.

You are right, most of the Japanese stuff is great. I've driven Toyotas for years, no complaints. Own one now. Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers, but I'm still sticking with Ididit or Flaming River on this critical part.

And no one ever answered the original question. Guess I'll wait until I get my dash back from the body shop and my seat installed to mock it up.

[joedoh]

I used the borgeson u joints and universal telescoping shaft from summit on my 65 s10 swap, worked perfectly. it was not cheap, but there are always cheaper ways to do it wrong in my opinion.

[ptc]

Not to thrash your thread or anything, but just wanted to set a little record straight for our younger generation.... Yes "Jap Crap" is a generational term thing and if you learn your history lessons well you will understand how it all came about. It has nothing to do with Honda, Toyota, Acura, Lexus and all that which came about during your 'generation'.

"MADE IN JAPAN" stickers use to be on products that came to this nation after WWII as the USA helped Japan to get back on their manufacturing feet after a devastating war. The stickers were regarded by many as a 'rub it in your face type thing' and much of what USA imported was from Japan in the 50s, 60s, 70s.

"MADE IN CHINA" became the new generation of 'junk goods' that has started coming to this country after Japan got better at making things and started charging more for them. And I only use that term 'junk' lightly because its not so much that its junk materials as its that their engineering departments use the metric system where we still use SAE measurements. They still dont quite understand that as well as we Americans when translating copies of our originals into their 'knockoff parts' and thats why things dont fit so well from "aftermarket sources"....

Buying "American" means our markets and our business' get our dollars and support and should have that meaning all to itself.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by fangard

Could you please elaborate on where the term "Jap Crap" came from? I have heard the term used before and I am wondering what started it, because the Japanese have been producing top quality products since the mid fifties.
Please advise

My WWII Pacific Navy Combat Vet father saw first hand what the occupying Japanese soldiers did and had plenty of similar terms for them when I was growing up in the 50's and 60's. Earliest stuff is stamped or labeled "Occupied Japan" and was made right after the war. If you have something with that on it, put it on Ebay and watch someone from Japan buy it. He changed his tune in the 70's and even owned a few Datsun's for my mothers use. I have a couple of swords and part of a Zero plane that tried to sink his ship. Also lots of photographs showing what they did and also the damage our firebombs did to Tokyo. His ship was the first to sail into Tokyo harbor after the surrender to make first contact ahead of the main fleet a few days later. He was the second person to officially set foot on the dock, behind the Marine guard. I have a photo of his Captain being received by the Japanese delegation. They stayed in Japan for six months, then sailed to Long Island NY where he was discharged. A few years ago I ran into a guy whose father was on the Mine Sweeper that came in with my dads Patrol Craft.

[la hi]

The steering column people recommend that you use a paper plate, tack it to a dowel rod, insert it into the floor board and determine what length you really want.

I just finished the straight axle to IFS front end. I used a kit that was an expensive and a real learning experience.
Anyone that has installed this themselves, knows that the steering linkage from the new steering box to the steering column is custom made for your car, probably by you.
I used the stock column since the only advantage to me by using IDIT or one of the others is a tilt wheel. I already had the turn signals, and horn and I passed on the tilt wheel and the $600 + cost.
The steering column stock or otherwise is going to be cut off and fitted by you to meet the steering linkage from the steering rack.
After placing the column and steering wheel where I wanted them, with the column through the floor, the steering rod inside the column needed a bearing at the bottom of the column to stabilize the rod. I purchased a bearing at the local auto parts store, inserted it into the column and spot welded it so it would remain stable.
Now the linkage is made up of two u-joints and a 3/4" metal rod (cold roll steel was recommended)that has to be measured, measured measured and the ends ground to fit the two u-joints. Install the u-joint on the steering box and adjust the shaft inside the column until you get a fit for the other u-joint.
Now this could be done by a pro in an hour or less or a couple of weeks (trial and error) by a do-it -your self-er like me.
The local hot rod shop said they would install the ifs and the tilt steering column for $1,500, (plus extra parts, and about 16 hrs)for an idea on cost, after I had removed the straight axle, parts, and purchased the new kit, new extra parts (power steering pump, brackets, hoses, fitings and belt)and shipped it to them.
I DON'T KNOW WHY I WROTE THIS? JUST IGNORE THE POST.

[joedoh]

la hi, borgeson makes a telecoping shaft with 6" of adjustment, its what I used and it didnt require any critical measuring except to get one with the right overall length to make sure it was within the telescoping range and didnt need cut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/br...FcKHaQodAFQA3Q

two u joints and a telescoping shaft was about $280.