Adjust doors with fenders on?

[clemsonteg]

Can it be done? I know there are s type wrenches, but it looks like there is zero room to get any sort of wrench between the fender and the cab. I am really trying to avoid pulling the grill, hood, and fenders again just to shim the door hinges.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

Can it be done? I know there are s type wrenches, but it looks like there is zero room to get any sort of wrench between the fender and the cab. I am really trying to avoid pulling the grill, hood, and fenders again just to shim the door hinges.

I have done a couple of them with the front clip on. In fact I just completely removed the drivers door from the '72 dually, did some work to it and re-installed it without removing the fender or clip. I did remove the lower rear fender bolt and the inner panel to cab bolt (the one with the big washer on it) and stuck a piece of wood between the bottom of the fender & body for a little more clearance......

LockDoc

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I have done a couple of them with the front clip on. In fact I just completely removed the drivers door from the '72 dually, did some work to it and re-installed it without removing the fender or clip. I did remove the lower rear fender bolt and the inner panel to cab bolt (the one with the big washer on it) and stuck a piece of wood between the bottom of the fender & body for a little more clearance......

LockDoc

When you removed the door did you leave the hinges on the cab or On the door? I could certainly take take the door off from the hinges, but it may be even more work to get it realigned.

[hugger6933]

Take the door off from the hinges then rebuild the hinge before you do anything else. Just remember, the door side can move the door in and out the body side hinges move the door for and aft.If you gaps are close to being right along the back you can put in shims on the door side if the need for a twist is there.

[swamp rat]

I just did this, i also recomend hinge rebuilding, its really easy, get the kit with the bronze bushings, there are how too's on the board just be sure to cut the excess length off the bottom of the pins before reinstalling, leave about 1/8".

Mark the outline of the hinge with a scribe or real sharp pen on the door and fender first, remove the door, then remove the hinge, rebuild it then reinstall in the same location, reinstall the door and check the fit, you can adjust the in and out on the door, the up down and front and back can be adjusted with the bolts on the fender but you have to pulll the door to access them, i had my door on and off about 10 times.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

When you removed the door did you leave the hinges on the cab or On the door? I could certainly take take the door off from the hinges, but it may be even more work to get it realigned.

I left the hinges on the door.

LockDoc

[clemsonteg]

I actually rebuilt the hinges when I replaced the doors.

[brad_man_72]

I did the same as locdoc, removed the bottom fender bolts for some wiggle room.
I rebuilt my hinges and they were junk in a couple of weeks. New hinges seem to be holding up good after a few months.

[clemsonteg]

For those of you that loosened the fender for a little extra wiggle room, did you use any special wrenches or combinations or simple hand tools?

I saw some special wrenches for door hinges with fenders mounted, but they are $80+ used on eBay. Didn't want to spend the money if it can be done reasonably with out it.

[Jurassic-1]

I have one of those S wrenches. I have also made tools for special uses. Do you have access to a welder and a cheap 9/16 wrench? you could use some round stock or even rebar and bend it into a curve and weld the wrench head on to it.

[swamp rat]

Map gas torch and a vise, bend your own special wrench, i have a few that i made thru the years with long handled wrenches.

I also used a ratcheting wrench, socket and ratchet when possible.

[clemsonteg]

I bought some obstruction wrenches from harbor freight today and it worked to add shims to the top hinge, but I could definitely see why the s-shaped wrench would be worth what they charge. I may have to check out the flea market this weekend to pick up some cheap used offset wrenches and have my father in law weld it to a piece of rebar.

[LockDoc]

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I used an open end and flex socket combination wrench mostly. I think I did have to use a short open/box end for one of the bolts.

LockDoc

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I used an open end and flex socket combination wrench mostly. I think I did have to use a short open/box end for one of the bolts.

LockDoc

Like this one? Might have to pick up one of those as well.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by clemsonteg

Like this one? Might have to pick up one of those as well.

No, like this one... This style will clear the other bolt heads when turning it.

LockDoc

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

No, like this one... This style will clear the other bolt heads when turning it.

LockDoc

Thanks. That definitely isn't what I had it mind, but looks pretty cool.

[brad_man_72]

I didn't use any special tools, just several wrences of different qualitys and a 12 pt socket. It takes some patience but can be done.

[clemsonteg]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I didn't use any special tools, just several wrences of different qualitys and a 12 pt socket. It takes some patience but can be done.

That's definitely correct on the patience. It took me an hour or so to loosen the 3 bolts holding the top hinge on, add shims, and tighten everything back. It was certainly worth it since it took care of the majority of my issue. A few shims on the door side and the door should sit where I want it. I may have to invest in a ratcheting obstruction wrench like this one since the non ratcheting version seemed to do the job.