Brake lines

[OldChevy61]

What's every body doing for brake line sets. Speaking of the metal lines. Pre bent sets that cost an arm and a leg or bending your own. I never messed with a flaring tool, but I think for the cost diffence,I can learn. I got my frame all back together and ready to plumb the brakes before moving to the motor and cab.

[jayoldschool]

Coil of brake line, hand bender, flaring tool, nuts. Do it yourself, it's fun. Make patterns from welding wire or coat hangers. Mark tubing with a Sharpie for start, middle, end of bend (and direction). Put nuts on first

[OldChevy61]

I was almost ready to buy a set till I saw the shipping price. Lol. That threw a monkey wrench in that deal. Looks like time to get a flaring tool. I would rather have pre bent ready to bolt ,but not for over 200.00.

[Monte's62]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

coil of brake line, hand bender, flaring tool, nuts. Do it yourself, it's fun. Make patterns from welding wire or coat hangers. Mark tubing with a sharpie for start, middle, end of bend (and direction). Put nuts on first

x2

[PGSigns]

Using the new copper nickel lines makes it a lot easier. Also the parts stores have a good bit of lengths that can be used to do may lines with out having to make your own.
Jimmy

[Mike Wessinger]

When I added the dual MC to my 65, I used several different lengths of pre-made brake line from the local parts store to split off the rear and redo the entire rear line to the back axle. With so many lengths available, it was fairly easy to match up the section lengths I needed and bend to fit. Including the new MC, brake fluid, an inexpensive set of flare nut wrenches, and a useless hand held tubing bending tool, I think I only had about $125 in the whole job.

[61K10]

i used the auto parts ones as PGSigns posted. just get some brass inverted flair unions to put the lengths together. be careful if using a flaring tool as it's hard to make a good double flair on steel tube. The copper-nickle tube is easier to flair than steel. just try to get the length's to fit. you can add a few coils (bend it around a 2" pipe) to shorten if needed. I bought a hyd. flaring tool years ago when building a few hot-rods (not my own) you don't want a line to brake--good luck.

[OldChevy61]

At least I still got the old ones here to measure by.. Thanks guys for the input..

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Using the new copper nickel lines makes it a lot easier...Jimmy

+1 on copper nickel.
I purchased a hydraulic flaring tool a couple of car builds ago and have been super happy ever since.

[lovemmth]

I just finished a front disk kit and re plumbing the entire system. Sorry I cant figure out how to rotate the picture.

[Cape Codder]

Buy your tubing in a coil and learn to flare yourself. You will save $ on fittings and the less joints the cleaner the job and less chance for leaks. A hand flaring tool will work fine and with an hour practice you will get the hang of it. If you have the old lines they make a good template or as said stiff wire or coat hangers will work.

[GRX]

Been making my own for many years. Learned before I could drive because my 1st car was free and had rusty lines. Here is some advice:

#1: Buy a good flaring tool. This one is very popular.
http://www.plumberscrib.com/ridgid-2...ring-tool.html

#2:Make sure you have nice clean square ends before performing the double flare. Use a small cone shaped burr to make a slight chamfer on the inner edge. Helps the flaring tool seat evenly.

#3: A cutter can work harden the line somewhat. Anneal with a torch afterward. Or use a saw or cut off wheel instead.

#4: Coiled line can be straightened by rolling between two lengths of plywood.

#5: Affix a cylinder to the flare & tighten a few times before installing the line on the vehicle. Maximizes proper flare formation for easier fitment later.

#6: Nickle/Copper (NiCopp) line is the cat's meow. Extremely easy to flare & bend.

With so many companies selling pre-bent lines these days it seems that fabricating your own is almost a lost skill anymore. As evidenced by so many vehicles having rubber hose running to the carb. Even over hot exhaust.

[OldChevy61]

Got a bender and flaring tool ordered. I'm thinking these are 3/16 lines. 62c/10 with hydraulic clutch.

[Cape Codder]

Most are 3/16 with some having 1/4 I am not sure on your truck but when you get your flaring tool it will be apparent which fits.

[OldChevy61]

Just went and measured. From MC 1/4 in,front lines 1/4in, line to rear and back lines 3/16. Looks like two coils of line.

[GRX]

That is what it was on my '69. Was not sure if your older truck would be different. Do you know about the string & wire tricks? Use a length of string along the bent line to measure total length needed. A piece of wire to replicate bends to use as a template.

[LostMy65]

Saved for reference

[60chevyjim]

I make all of my brake and fuel lines .
I never tried the roll of coiled up line .
I allways measure all the lines that I am going to make .
I write down the length of each one and
then I buy strait lines a little bit longer than each one that im making
I use the factory lines for a pattern . I masking tape the new line that im making to the original line.
it makes it much ezr to bend it to match the original line .
then I cut it to the right length allowing enough extra for the double flare .
dont forget to put the fitting on the correct way before doing your flare .
on the long line to the rear I use 2 pieces and a union to connect them .
I just finished all the metal lines on my friends 65 chevy long bed.
I made all new fuel lines for it too.
I have done at least a few complete sets of lines for the 59 and 60 impalas that I build.

[Cape Codder]

To connect two lines use a flare nut on each line with a coupler to connect. A compression union is a different fitting that has no place in a brake system.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

To connect two lines use a flare nut on each line with a coupler to connect. A compression union is a different fitting that has no place in a brake system.

^^ x100 on that. Their use in a hydraulic brake system is illegal in many states, including mine.

[60chevyjim]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

To connect two lines use a flare nut on each line with a coupler to connect. A compression union is a different fitting that has no place in a brake system.

your thinking about the wrong thing ..
I am not talking about a crappy household pluming compression fitting ....
they are unsafe for use on any and all brake systems !!!

I have been replicating factory brake lines for over 30 years
and I don't use household pluming fittings on automobiles ..

I am talking about a automotive brass fitting that the local napa store calls a union ,
it is one piece and has female threads on both ends and it accepts double flared automotive brake lines
that have the correct fittings already on them .
I start with premade straight lines with the correct fittings already on both ends of the brake line.
then I cut them to the correct length if needed and I double flare the cut end reusing the original fitting .

[urmyboyblue]

I just use the generic ones I can get from the parts stores- come in various lengths and I can shorten and bend them to my will. Buy you a decent bender so you don't kink the lines and above all else, when shortening a line and forming a new flare, DOUBLE FLARE the lines. Don't single flare a brake line- that and compression fittings will lead to a brake failure. Brakes are not a place to cut corners.

[60chevyjim]

this is the correct >> union << to use for brake lines .
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/union...FQkfhgodUf0ANg

[DKfromIA]

The coils of brake line aren't hard to deal with. Straighten the approximate amount of line on the coil, then cut it from the coil. I make sure the line is as straight as possible before i start working with it.

I lost count of how many flares I had to cut off after I forgot to put the fitting on the line. Eventually, you figure out a system so you get it right each time

Building my 66 GMC has been the only time I've bent all of the brake lines. I'm happy with the way they've turned out. After a while, it becomes an art form that leads to a sense of accomplishment when complete. Plus, you get to buy new tools to do the job!