latching a hinged bed floor

[sqweaka]

ive raised the bed floor in my 49 build to accommodate the step notch in the frame, i'm going to hinge the floor frame (timber and bed strips still to be added) at the front and add rams to the sides to support/raise it for access to the airride stuff, but was wondering how to latch it at the rear any ideas? i'd like the latch to be hidden if possible

[samples45]

I saw a truck at a show last year with a hinged bed and he said it latched with the gas cap.. I forgot how it worked but it was a billet cap. Not sure if it was something he bought or made himself

[samples45]

Also you could check mar-k in okc I'm sure other places sell them but they have a hidden tailgate latch setup that's pretty small and you could install it just under the wood in the rear on the hinged frame part.. Idk why they call the hinge but it's like the looks in the stalls at a public restroom lol

[joedoh]

best I saw was a hood latch from an s10, had the spring and hidden release handle.

[OrrieG]

my first thought was an upside down clevis rod, welded to the tailgate end of the hinged frame. It could go thru what ever the frames rests on (no photo of that end) and have a spring loaded washer and clevis pin underneath or could even use a weatherproof padlock for security. I'd make sure the frame rides on rubber mounts to keep it secure and rattle free.

[sqweaka]

thanks... i did think of some kind of hood latch mechanism, but wondered what others have done to secure there's, ive no picture of the tailgate end as its just bare in case i ended up fabbing brackets/slam panel etc

[ptc]

These are pretty cool for panel latches. would work great for that flat panel with 2 of them to lift up on.



video here:
https://youtu.be/WCk1dOrpriI

website:
http://wagongear.com/project/latch-options/

Or these are the trick setup and have many different options- check their website

[FiftyTwo]

A couple bear claw latches on each side would work.

Or you could use the latching setup from a typical pickup tailgate.

[Chance48]

I like those latches ptc pointed out. That's clean. Really depends a lot on budget. If your guy like me and don't really want to spend the time engineering and fabing a hood latch in there and budget is kinda open then I'd say go for the latches ptc pointed out, if not then next best to me is using an old hood latch.

[sqweaka]

i really like the one's in the PTC suggests but budget and the style of truck im building means they look abit to blingy for me,

bear claw idea might be simple...

[_Ogre]

if you drive the truck in rain, bear claws will rust and become inop unless you waterproof the area
i used truck latches for my tonneau cover and trunk lid,
most have 3 methods of unlatching; keyed cable, electric and the jimmy hoffa release
not waterproof, but if you can keep it dry it's a lot cheaper and versitile than a bearclaw

[OrrieG]

I still like mine, no moving parts, simple, nothing exposed on top to catch water to rust or damage wood. If you never wash it or drive in the rain probably not an issue.

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Is the tailgate going to be fixed in the up position? Or are you going to leave it as original and it can be folded down? If you leave it stock, you can always hide the latch and mechanism below the raised bed level. All you would then have to do is, lower the tailgate and access your release mechanism, which ever style you choose.

[sqweaka]

yes, the tailgate will operate as stock so a release mechanism could fit where you suggest
and be hidden when its closed, i did think of welding a small tab to the tailgate to hold the floor down when it was closed

[mr48chev]

There are some nifty stainless latches made for Boat use. Some locking and some not. I buy quite a bit of my stainless for my sailboat from this outfit http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring.html Good prices and good parts. They also have the flush fuel caps for a real reasonable price.

[Coursey]

I know, old thread.

What did you wind up doing? I am trying to sort through mine now.

[mr48chev]

He was last on here Feb 2, 2020. Thanks for acknowledging that it is an old thread that hasn't had activity for a long time.

Folks will probably post some fresh ideas on it before the day is over. The raised floors are a lot more common than when he started the thread and more people are using space under the raised floors as storage now. Depending on where your tank is located it also lets you mount the rear mounted tank several inches higher in the frame.

[Coursey]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

He was last on here Feb 2, 2020. Thanks for acknowledging that it is an old thread that hasn't had activity for a long time.

Folks will probably post some fresh ideas on it before the day is over. The raised floors are a lot more common than when he started the thread and more people are using space under the raised floors as storage now. Depending on where your tank is located it also lets you mount the rear mounted tank several inches higher in the frame.

Not sure how to even post pics anymore.

It is a no limit raised rail chassis. Tank in rear. Hinging to be able to roadside service tank if needed, and add some storage where i can.

[mr48chev]

If you have the hinges figured out an the floor will lift the main things with the latch are do you need it to lock or just keep the floor from bouncing.

Marine parts Depot that I posted the link to in post 15 is out of their latches that have keys and actual locks. I've bought a lot of stuff from them for my sailboat and their stainless pieces are pretty nice for the price. They have a fold flush lift handle that is nice on something like that.

[dsraven]

if ity is just a latch why not build a rod that runs from side to side with hooks on each end and pivots so it can turn. put a spring on it so it returns to the latched position. install a couple of square u shaped receivers on the underside of the hinged part and set it up with a lever on the rod to turn the rod and release the rod hooks from the u shaped receivers when you want the parts to seperate and hinge up. on the closing function the hooks could be made with a ramp on them so they automatically move to open as the u shaped receivers come down on them and then spring closed as the receivers move past. it could all be opened using an electric linear actuator, a hood release cable made from bicycle cable or some other method you dream up. the hinged part could sit down against adjustable rubber bumpers similar to hood bumpers. once in the open position ensure to have a prop rod to keep it from dropping on you. some cab over trucks have a prop rod that automatically drops into place and then to lift it back for lowering there is a cable to pull it out of the way.

[mr48chev]

Unless it has some sort of spring to help it pop up high enough to grab the edge it will need some sort of lift handle.

One reason I was thinking boat deck hatch latch. They have them with or without keyed locks. This being one on Amazon.

[dsraven]

Gas strut lift cyl may help. Just a spring would also help pop it, like a hood latch.

[mr48chev]

Gas struts help the back.

[Coursey]

https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...unk-lid-latch/

Looking at using something similar to this maybe? Like to keep everything as hidden as possible. Dont really want and exposed latch.

Would hide the release up behind bumper.

[dsraven]

if you are going the raised bed route you could use a simple canopy latch or tailgate latch mechanism from a newer truck with the central handle and rods that go to each side. nader pins on the box side if you use the tailgate latch idea, simple works best. rubber on the canopy latch rods will help keep it from rattling.

yup, I know, old thread. BUT, there are still guys looking at it and somebody is obviously looking into doing the same thing. others have likely looked and got ideas but not replied. thats what it's all about, right?