has anyone used this setup before ?

[WOLFMANmike]

i dont have a ton of money and i dont have a welder or access to one so im wondering dose it look like i can use this in my 65 ? and do you think i need anything else to make it work ?

[PGSigns]

Well all I can say is maybe. What is it you are trying to use on your truck?
Jimmy

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Well all I can say is maybe. What is it you are trying to use on your truck?
Jimmy

oops i am so sorry i thought i put the link in the 1st post slaps forehead http://www.mcgaughys-suspension.com/...es-part-63178/

[Clyde65]

Yes you can but you can also save money and get Captn Fabs mount, then source a known good assembly from a running 73-87 c10.
You can also do a hydraulic boosted unit if you are going to tow a bunch.

Also when you do this upgrade are you going to do a disc conversion

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Yes you can but you can also save money and get Captn Fabs mount, then source a known good assembly from a running 73-87 c10.
You can also do a hydraulic boosted unit if you are going to tow a bunch.

Also when you do this upgrade are you going to do a disc conversion

No for now it's gonna stay drum drum .... but how do I mount this setup to the peddle it looks as if it's just a threaded rod and a nut . And from the looks of it looks like the rod is short I don't have access to a welder so welding more rod to it is out ... is there something I need to buy to make it work ?

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by WOLFMANmike

No for now it's gonna stay drum drum .... but how do I mount this setup to the peddle it looks as if it's just a threaded rod and a nut . And from the looks of it looks like the rod is short I don't have access to a welder so welding more rod to it is out ... is there something I need to buy to make it work ?

The rod in the truck going into the master is also threaded. Just swap it to the new unit.

[aggie91]

Here are some good how to's on doing this power brake conversion while staying with drums on all four corners.

Converting to a dual master cylinder:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558945 (master cylinder, starts on post #8)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=599582 (update after driving it..)

Adding a vacuum booster:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611577

not sure why Sharps40 is not on here, but his threads on these how to's are great...

[TopFuel1966]

Don't overlook pedal ratio when converting to a power booster. You'll need to change the attachment point of the pushrod to the brake pedal:

PEDAL RATIO
Your pedal ratio is important for either power or manual brake systems. With a power brake system if your pedal ratio is too
high you will have sensitive brakes and if it’s too low your braking will be poor. With a manual brake system the same will
apply although too high a pedal ratio is rarely a problem.

As a general rule of thumb your pedal ratio should not exceed:
6:1 for manual brakes with a 1” bore master cylinder
4:1 for power brakes with a 1 1/8” bore master cylinder

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Here are some good how to's on doing this power brake conversion while staying with drums on all four corners.

Converting to a dual master cylinder:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558945 (master cylinder, starts on post #8)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=599582 (update after driving it..)

Adding a vacuum booster:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611577

not sure why Sharps40 is not on here, but his threads on these how to's are great...

yeah this is good info ... but i dont have access to a welder so do they make a adjustable extension and a clevis to mount to the peddle ?

[vdawg]

wolfman I know you say your on a budget but for $100 more you can buy a bolt in unit.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6062BB2.htm

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by vdawg

wolfman I know you say your on a budget but for $100 more you can buy a bolt in unit.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6062BB2.htm

ive been told by my buddy mike on here that the cpp kit is problematic as far as being a bolt in ... and also that kit is either disc / drum or disk / disk .
and im looking to stay drum / drum for now

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by WOLFMANmike

yeah this is good info ... but i dont have access to a welder so do they make a adjustable extension and a clevis to mount to the peddle ?

Do you have a threading die? I think the rods are about 3/8" in diameter. If they are 3/8", Cut off the two rods and thread each end to 3/8"=16 thread and join with a 3/8" coupling nut. Use some red thread locker to make sure the coupling nut does not loosen....

[sags]

In mine, I just bought a fine threaded rod and cut it to the length I needed. Works fine.

[frankslagoon]

If ya don't have to have power brakes you can buy a reg dual res.for like a 70 chevy pu. for about 30 bucks ?

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by frankslagoon

If ya don't have to have power brakes you can buy a reg dual res.for like a 70 chevy pu. for about 30 bucks ?

This is what I would do if staying with drum brakes. I drove mine for years without power brakes with no issues.

Save your money till you can do both disc and power booster

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by karlbenz

This is what I would do if staying with drum brakes. I drove mine for years without power brakes with no issues.

Save your money till you can do both disc and power booster

I don't have the stock peddle rod now to even go back to that here I'll take a few pics and show all if you what I have going on right now

[WOLFMANmike]

Here is what I got going right now that the PO did ... and this is my daily driver for me and my handicapped wife so I can't have it down but my booster is leaking ... and even since day 1 brakes haven't been great ... but it looks as if what ever rod was there is now cut up and ruined

[aggie91]

The way that dual master appears to be plumbed is not safe. The intent of the dual MC is to split the hydraulic circuits of the brakes into the front system and the rear system. Should one system have a failure, the other could still get the truck stopped.

The way I see them both plumbed into that tee, they just made the dual MC into a single...if there is a hydraulic failure down stream of that tee, then both circuits of the MC will still leak out of the same place in the circuit.

That needs to be corrected when replacing the master cylinder and booster. Just like on the threads I attached above.

[jtrichard]

" and even since day 1 brakes haven't been great" ....I bet .... What want to be rocket scientist installed that mess ......Not only is it plumbed WRONG but that looks like a disc/drum master to me.... Can you get a pic where the booster bolts up to see how they butchered that up?

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

" and even since day 1 brakes haven't been great" ....I bet .... What want to be rocket scientist installed that mess ......Not only is it plumbed WRONG but that looks like a disc/drum master to me.... Can you get a pic where the booster bolts up to see how they butchered that up?

I will try to get a pic of that for you .... just know that this is not me . I'm NOT responsible for this mess it was the jackhole PO that did it .... ok so now I get that I need to re plumb it from the rear to the booster . But the question is what all am I missing that I need to get to do the dual Master? Do I only need the stock brake push rod ? Or is there more ? That I need I'm looking for details so that when I go shopping for this stuff. I get it right the first time .. thanks for all of your guys help .... Happy Truckin

[frankslagoon]

Go to the top of the page in the search box and type in dual master cylinder conversion. and select the trk site. you will find everything ya need to know

[jtrichard]

"just know that this is not me . I'm NOT responsible for this mess it was the jackhole PO that did it "..(never meant it was you LOL).. I know that feeling worked on many trucks and tractors and have seen some real works of art ..... PO's mommy bought him a pair of plastic pliers when he was 3 now he thinks he's MR good wrench LOL .... there is a "TEE" on the pass side at the rear of the front cross member that is where you need to break it down ( plug the tee and add on to the rear line over to the master)

[WOLFMANmike]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

"just know that this is not me . I'm NOT responsible for this mess it was the jackhole PO that did it "..(never meant it was you LOL).. I know that feeling worked on many trucks and tractors and have seen some real works of art ..... PO's mommy bought him a pair of plastic pliers when he was 3 now he thinks he's MR good wrench LOL .... there is a "TEE" on the pass side at the rear of the front cross member that is where you need to break it down ( plug the tee and add on to the rear line over to the master)

ok ty for the spot to plug and run from .. and in the post on a dual master conversion they are im guessing equiped with the factory brake push rod .. but in my pics you can see i dont have that its butchered so im trying to find out what do i hunt for what all is missing ? i dont know as this is how i got the truck so i have no clue whats missing .. in the dual master post they dont make any referance to the brake rod accept where to bolt it on the peddle

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by TopFuel1966

Don't overlook pedal ratio when converting to a power booster. You'll need to change the attachment point of the pushrod to the brake pedal:

PEDAL RATIO
Your pedal ratio is important for either power or manual brake systems. With a power brake system if your pedal ratio is too
high you will have sensitive brakes and if it’s too low your braking will be poor. With a manual brake system the same will
apply although too high a pedal ratio is rarely a problem.

As a general rule of thumb your pedal ratio should not exceed:
6:1 for manual brakes with a 1” bore master cylinder
4:1 for power brakes with a 1 1/8” bore master cylinder

Good information, can I ask?: 4:1 - Four to One what? What does that mean? I'm asking cause I don't know.
I Bing'd it:
http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how...ng-pedal-ratio

[jtrichard]

The brake push rod travels 1/4 what the pedal travels 4:1

Wolfman if the booster is mounted good then i would just get the correct master and re-plumb the lines ... have to figure out what the booster is (any numbers on it?) so you can get a rebuilt... you might drive by a good old parts store and see if anyone there cant figure out what it is off of ....i found some pics that look like yours have not been able to ID it yet