Everyday stock 5.3 swap into 87 r10 swb

[Fishjeepchevy]

I've got an 87 r10 the 305s life recently ended so I figured I'd swap in a 5.3 and 4l60e I got from an 04 Silverado. I've got some questions as far as fuel lines not trying to spend too much on something that won't get looked at often. It has the single fuel line, so could I run the stock hard lines up almost to the engine bay run the reg/filter and a shorter amount of expensive efi hose or ??? Setup is dbw so any major headaches with that? The truck was factory ac but I don't plan on running ac does that clear up what engine mounts I can use. Will the truck manifolds clear my frame. Can I stab the engine and trans with the front clip on or is the whole swap easier with it off. Truck already has a 700 in it so not too worried about the drive shaft. Is there a fitting for the stock temp sensor in the truck to work on the 5.3 or vise versa. I don't have the whole fuse block but I think the harness has the c2 or whatever. Will my radiator work its huge so I don't think cooling will be a problem but I keep seeing something about a steam vent or some thing. And will trans cooler fittings from a 700 work on the 4l60e

[mongocanfly]

I assume you meant c10 not r10? But on the fuel system you will need a return line into the tank. You will need a high pressure fuel pump and a fuel filter regulator setup which is best mounted close to the tank or mod the tank for a in-tank pump. Either way I used steel braid from my tank to fuel rail..its not that big a cost for the security of it but the steel line will work to..dbw you will need the gas pedal setup..I swapped mine to dbc though. The manifolds that were on my engine wouldn't clear the frame..i used headers..I installed mine with the front clip on...it didn't cause any problems although access to install would be easier with it off. On the temp sensor I drilled into the back of the passenger head and installed a new sending unit for the gauge. Your gonna need the wiring harness and ecm/tcm...my psi harness came with a new fuse block..not sure what you mean by c2? I used my stock radiator with no problems..the steam line will need plumbed into the radiator or ,, I plumbed mine into the waterpump..don't know about trans fittings..Im running manual..a lot of what your asking can be found with the search bar up at the top of the page

[Fishjeepchevy]

I meant r 10 because its a factory tbi truck and they brought the initials c/k to the newer body style. I plan on running the ep381 pump the lines are hard up until about the engine it turn into braided flexible line then somehow back so hard line at the tbi I was wondering if I could run the filter reg closer to the engine and use a shorter length of expensive efi line all while utilizing the old fuel line.

[Fishjeepchevy]

And I do have the wiring pcm etc.

[Tilt]

You can use the original hard lines with no problem. My 04 LQ9 was the returnless fuel system, so I assume your 04 5.3 would be also. I would mount the reg/filter close to the tank as it will have a return line that goes back to the tank. The truck manifold will not fit without notching the frame. Check out the LS Swap section of the board and you will find answers to all of the questions you have asked.

[ElGracho]

What they said.

For a fuel system read this:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...81#post3440599

Around post 194. Braided stainless hose is kindof expensive with the fittings, but adapting back and forth to the factory stuff and then to the LS manifold isn't free either...

Keep the DBW. My first swap was DBC, the next one is DBW. As long as you have the matching components, its easier.

Ebay engine mount adapter plates with stock style mounts are what I used.

Truck manifolds don't clear. 2010 camaro manifolds do. They come on LS3 crate engines and you can often find new take-offs on ebay.

No need to pull the front clip. Just the hood like any other engine R&R.

I turned a stock replacement temp sender down to the major diameter of the M12x1.5 thread that is in the LS head. I used a die nut to thread it and an aluminum washer to seal it. 12k miles so far working great.

I reworked my stock harness using information from the stock GM wiring diagrams for my engine and info from LT1swap.com

Your radiator is fine. I plumbed my steam line into the unused heater hose return port on my radiator. Use the 5.3 radiator hoses.

Get new trans fittings for a 700R4, they thread into the 4L60E and allow you to use stock trans cooler lines.

[mattcrp1]

I thought tbi engines had 2 lines going up the back of the trans? I used an 87 tank for my swap and ran the dorman nylon lines up the back of the trans. check the link in my sig for my build. got any pics?

[Fishjeepchevy]

. Here should be a pic of the monster

[Fishjeepchevy]

Can you believe this was a free truck

[Fishjeepchevy]

Is the doorman nylon fuel line strong enough

[Fishjeepchevy]

. This is the stock fuel system

[Fishjeepchevy]

. My question is can I put the filter reg here and keep the in line filter so I can replace the stock one more than the filter regulator

[mongocanfly]

Like elgracho says...using all those different style lines is going to get pricey when you have to go to buying all the adapters your gonna need to keep going back and forth..me myself and I would just use one type hose and fittings for the whole system. (Steel braid and an fittings)..keep it simple..but that's just me..I don't seen any need to add another filter into the system..can't hurt but I wouldn't..I got lots of miles on mine and am still on the original..and I would keep it close to the tank...less hose/tubing..your tank will need a return fitting on it if it doesn't have one. Some do,,some don't

[mongocanfly]

Here's how mine is plumbed...rail return is capped off..the only hoses not steel braid is the one from pickup going to the pump and the return from filter/reg back to tank.

[Fishjeepchevy]

I see do you guys think 25 ft of the -6an braided line is enough to run just the pressure side or both sides I may re route the lines to the driver side instead of the passenger side like it is now. And how many fittings will I need I was thinking one Russel 640850. One doorman 800-120 one Russel 640940 one Russel 644123 and maybe 2 ends sum-2206913 I say 2 because the 25 ft from summit comes with a few fittings its sum pumpkit1

[Fishjeepchevy]

So you're running hard lines from the pickup to the pump and from the return off the filter?? Correct me if I'm wrong

[Fishjeepchevy]

Should I go with the trans dapt mounts 56.74 or there is a set of billet mounts on amazon for 34/and change

[mongocanfly]

25 feet is way more than I needed..I think I bought 10 ft and only the fittings I needed. Mine is run on drivers side as well. My pickup and return lines are just reg rubber fuel line..there's no pressure on either one. A little more detail

[Fishjeepchevy]

[IMG]http://http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=1495959&stc=1&d=1454651190change. Sorry about my erratic posting I'm excited

[mongocanfly]

The rail return is a pushlock an with a cap on it.

[mongocanfly]

Ha ha i was excited to when I started mine..heres before and after pics of mine

[Fishjeepchevy]

could someone verify to make sure I'm right on this only thing I'm not sure about is how do I put the an hose on the sender

[Fishjeepchevy]

The pressure side from the tank to the reg/filter was supposed to be Russel 644123

[ElGracho]

I used Dorman 800-121 on the pump side of the filter. Many say it won't work. I used fuel injection fuel line (high pressure rubber hose) with the clamps made for it. (ask for it at Napa, they have it)

http://www.dormanproducts.com/images...00-121-007.JPG

I ran my fuel line down the passenger frame rail. It saves hose and ends up in the engine compartment right where you need it.

I used Spectra 11C for my tank, and FG05M for my sender.

Don't use the russell 640850 at the fuel rail, use the 644123 instead. The 850 fitting will pop off at the worst possible moment.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I could believe it, my C10 SWB was also a freebie.

I used all Dorman nylon lines and fittings, did not need to purchase expensive AN fittings. What I would do for returnless, is down on the framerail by the back of the cab is the fuel line junction, where the tank lines join to the feed lines with rubber hose. You'll have to replace this hose with fuel injection hose anyhow. Get the metal quick connects off a junkyard 90's car, mine came off a 95ish v6 camaro. They have nice beaded nipple ends, you can put FI hose on this and clamp them, then attach to the metal lines from the tank. Plug into your Corvette returnless filter regulator and then make up the single 3/8" nylon feed line and run it up to the fuel rail. Hope this makes sense. I really gotta get under my truck and take pics sometime as I see these questions asked alot.