Can I replace the oil pressure sender on an LS motor?

[davepl]

The oil pressure sender fitting on the LS motor is a big metric thing. I was looking into how I could T it off somehow and still be able to run my gauge, but then I got to wondering...

Does the LS computer need to know the oil pressure? The product link for the adapter says it doesn't, and I can't think of a reason why it would, but thought I should ask the forum before I make any wild assumptions.

I presume it uses RPM to know if the engine is running for fuel cut if the engine stalls and that sort of thing, so I can't imagine why it would care.

Thoughts?

[indymachinist]

The LS engine does not need the big fragile factory oil pressure sender behind the intake manifold. You can remove it and use that spot for your gauge sender, or people also use the little cover plate right above the oil filter for a sender.

I personally like to use the spot behind the intake for the pressure gauge sender, and the spot above the oil filter for an oil temperature sender.

[The Chainsaw]

No, the stock LS computer won't need an oil pressure number for the tune. Mine is hooked up only because I have the Holley EFI pull out LOTS of timing and boost when it drops below a certain point at WOT.

I use the lower port above the oil filter for my mechanical gauge.

[davepl]

I have a cover there, but underneath it there's no obvious threaded ports. Did you drill an tap an NPT port right into the cover?

[The Chainsaw]

Yes. You can also buy a cover that has a couple ports already built in.

[indymachinist]

There are different covers for that location. I would not drill and tap that one. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the better option.

[davepl]

I ordered one from Amazon for nine bucks that'll be here in two days with the port already tapped!

Thanks for the info fellas!

[indymachinist]

Keep heat in mind in that location. It usually ends up having a header right by it that can cause trouble if you're not careful.

[The Chainsaw]

^Very True^





I got around that problem by facing the headers forward and mounting turbos to them

[67 chevelle]

the cover you show is where my oil sender is located , drilled and taped it no problem , you might want the engine installed first to see what angle it needs to be installed for clearance

[LockDoc]

-
I broke the plastic off of the LSx oil pressure sender and tapped it for an 1/8" NPT fitting that my original oil line screws right into....

LockDoc

[davepl]

Originally Posted by The Chainsaw

I got around that problem by facing the headers forward and mounting turbos to them

Gotta keep the sender cool, no matter what it takes!

I decided I would try to keep the factory oil pressure connection so that it doesn't light the MIL. I don't know for sure that it would, but if no oil pressure doesn't turn on the Check Engine light, nothing should! So I'm going the pan cover route too unless it interferes with my exhaust.

[Shon]

autometer 2268

[davepl]

I wound up using a threaded block off plate, then a 90, then my original Autometer sender. This should keep it away from the exhaust.

Thanks for the tips!

[davepl]

Also for less than the price of one brand name adapter you get get this whole set of Metric-pipe bushings 2-day shipped for under $10, so I ordered a set of those as well. Would have avoided me needing to tap the water pump port!

Amazon.com: Equus 9848 Oil Pressure and...
They're high quality brass adapters made from nylon. Figure that one out!

[First c10]

When I did mine I left the the stock sender and installed the Dakota digital sender for my gauges.

[First c10]

Installed

[izzy_Britton]

Is the oil pressure sending unit actually different? I mean can you not just use the factory sender snip the wires and wire it up to your gauge (autometer, sun, old ass gm) or even to a warning light? do you really need to use the specific sender that matched the gauge?

I been wondering this AND the same thing with the water temp sending unit.

-Izzy

[First c10]

The top one is the stock 2011 and the lower brass one is Dakota digital.
Not sure if it will work with other brands.

[ls1nova71]

If you want accuracy then you must use the sender designed for your specific gauge, theyre not all the same.

[davepl]

I have my sender, never planned to change it, not sure how that came up. I just needed a port to screw it into, and have put it down by the oil filter now.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

Is the oil pressure sending unit actually different? I mean can you not just use the factory sender snip the wires and wire it up to your gauge (autometer, sun, old ass gm) or even to a warning light? do you really need to use the specific sender that matched the gauge?

I been wondering this AND the same thing with the water temp sending unit.

-Izzy

This!

[davepl]

Certainly the ohm mapping has to match between the two senders and there's no standard, so far as I'm aware. Gas gauges are pretty standard on GM at 90 ohms, but no idea what they do for oil pressure. I'm happier having both hooked up.

Clearly a sender for a light needs to be on/off at a particular temp, whereas a gauge sender is a resistance v temp sweep, and might not be the same between all gauges. Or it might be!

Both appear to be 3-wire, for what that's worth.

[crazy longhorn]

Mine goes right off the top....brass adaptor/copper line(about 10-12 bones for the adaptor).....was it worth my time to modify For the monies, I did not see it Longhorn?

[davepl]

I wonder if the computer lights the MIL constantly if it sees no oil pressure though. Won't affect the way it runs, but you lose Check Engine functionality then.