POR 15 VS Frame paint

[Jemezcrusher]

Trying to decide which way to go with my sanblasted frame. I plan to drive this truck a lot and want it protected. My experience with POR 15 is good. I did the whole bottom of my 55 sedan with it. Used semi gloss but it looks a little dark charcoal rather than true black. Thought about the gloss black for this frame.

Live on a dirt road so will see regular exposure to stuff flying up off the tires.

Is the gloss POR15 "blacker" than the semi gloss, or should I stick with a paint designed for paint?

[Wbrown]

I used gloss black on my 71 c10 frame it was real glossy, but for some reason after about 2 years of sun hitting it through no bed floor it turned white chalky. So I had to end up cleaning it really well and paint it anyways. I'm using it again on my 55 chevy it's defenitly tuff just alittle disappointed in the color change.

[Wbrown]

You can kinda see in the first pic how glossy it is.

[Kim57]

POR 15 has no UV protection so it will get chalky if the sun hits it.
On a protected frame it should be alright.
Kim

[Foot Stomper]

There's lots of discussion on this topic under the "paint and bodywork" topic section too.

There's only one thing you need to know about any freshly blasted frame or body piece..."epoxy".

Anything else will not provide the corrosion or abrasion resistance. What you decide to put over the epoxy as far as paint is concerned is up to you but in my opinion, there's far better urethanes on the market than well advertised Por 15 products.

[joe70]

por15 on bare metal frame, then what ever you want as top coat i.e. semi gloss chassis black or gloss black.

[mphudak]

If it is a clean frame, don't go w/POR, it will be a bit of waisting $$$ on a product that designed to "Paint Over Rust". (Don't get me wrong, it will work but you may find other cheaper alternatives to painting). Also POR doesn't work well over primered surfaces, it needs to be raw steel else it will be susceptible to peeling.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

There's lots of discussion on this topic under the "paint and bodywork" topic section too.

There's only one thing you need to know about any freshly blasted frame or body piece..."epoxy".

Anything else will not provide the corrosion or abrasion resistance. What you decide to put over the epoxy as far as paint is concerned is up to you but in my opinion, there's far better urethanes on the market than well advertised Por 15 products.

OH YEAH, what he said!

And you don't have to wait to do it, spray the epoxy and come right back an hour or two later and spray a urethane without sanding! The epoxy has a recoat window up up to many days (read the tech info) so you don't even have to sand it.

OR, have it powder coated, there are places out there that charge hardly any more to powder coat it as it does to just get it sand blasted somewhere else.

Brian

[_Ogre]

i used por on my frame, no top coat; hasn't turned chalky in 6 yrs and 27,000 miles
i used a grinder to clean up most of the frame then a blast-in-a-bucket sand blaster from eastwoods for the nooks and crannies
i did my frame/boxing in 3 stages: rear, front and middle after i remove the cab
also used por when i rebuilt (sandblast, poly liners) my rear springs

this is the middle, the difference in color is ''dust''

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i used por on my frame, no top coat; hasn't turned chalky in 6 yrs and 27,000 miles
i used a grinder to clean up most of the frame then a blast-in-a-bucket sand blaster from eastwoods for the nooks and crannies
i did my frame/boxing in 3 stages: rear, front and middle after i remove the cab
also used por when i rebuilt (sandblast, poly liners) my rear springs

this is the middle, the difference in color is ''dust''

That's a damn good testimony for POR. There is a place for everything.

Brian