New (to me) '65 GMC C1000! Help with build planning

[rudf0rd]

Hey all,

First off thanks for the fantastic resource here that was able to get my truck back on the road! When I bought it, it hadn't been started in almost a decade and the wiring was all kinds of shot. Thanks to the board, I was able to figure out the fuel pump was shot and find the wiring gremlins in the rear tail light harness.

So now that it's running, I'm in need of some more help. I'm trying to plan out a build that will be in two stages: 1) Right now, and 2) When I can afford it. Ha.

The right now part of the build is for drivability, mostly brakes. The truck currently has drums all the way around, a 10 bolt rear and 6 lug wheels. I'd like to replace at least the front with disc. Next year, i'd like to add some of the pbfab suspension, but don't want to re-buy spindles, hubs, brakes, etc. I'm also planning on adding wheels as well, but not sure what yet.

What's the best way to upgrade brakes now and not screw myself later?

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

I'm not real familiar with the PB Dropmember, but I believe it will accept the '73-'87 truck spindle. If that is the case, all you need are a set of '73-'87 truck spindles either stock or dropped, upper and lower balljoints, the calipers, aftermarket 6 lug rotors, brake booster and master cylinder, plus all of the small parts in between. Most of that can be reused with the drop member. I would verify the spindle fitment with PB though.

[Praxiss454]

Hi Rudford, I have a new to me 65 gmc also, up here in Novato. What part of the bay area are you from?

[rudf0rd]

Thanks, Captain. I'll do some reading into that. I think I'd bite the bullet at the same time and do the 5 lug conversion, which means I need to figure out rear axles. Which then leads me to replacing the rear end entirely since I don't believe I want to run a 10 bolt with a junkyard 5.3L turbo LS swap.

I got an email back from pbfab and his exact words were:

We use a stock C10 drop spindle and brake system with our kits. Cpp has a few really nice options for a disc brake conversion.

I was asking very ambiguous questions, so once I do some more research, I may bug him again just to confirm the exact spindles.

Praxiss: Out east from you in Walnut Creek.


My next big spend will be in wheels. Couple of questions here:

1. Are adapters the only way you guys have seen someone run a 5x120 or 5x114.3?

I spent a decent amount of time pouring of this forum and a few others trying to figure out if I could run a different wheel lug pattern. Something that has more wheel options like the fifteen52 r43's or rotiform blq's

2. Wheel widths: What challenges will I face trying to fit 8.5" wide wheels up front?

I've seen guys fit 8.5" up front, but never saw anyone talk about the problems of it. Any rubbing, cutting, rolling, etc?

Thanks again guys!

[Captainfab]

The differential you likely have now is a Dana 44. It isn't bad, but not as strong as other differentials. I would look for a 12 bolt from a '73-'82 C10. The 8.5: 10 bolt from a '79-'86 C10 or a '87-'91 R1500 would be just fine as well. The durability of any differential is going to be relative to not only the HP and TQ coming from the engine, but also the size and compound of the rear tires.

I run 15 x 8" rally wheels on the front of my '66 Suburban without any rubbing issues. But then again, it is not lowered either, other than the added weight of the big block.

[AcampoDave]

On my '64 c10 longbed I split my brakes using a 1969 master cylinder. Pretty cheap, pretty simple, still 4 wheel drum but much safer and it stops great with good shoes and nice drums. Something like that would buy you time at a minimal cost. Just put a plug in the tee to the rear, add an extension to the line and get it to the new master. Then you could keep saving your money for doing the big changes all in one swoop. Edit: in fact, before I split the system I was planning on going disc, but after I did the m/c uprgade, threw on some new shoes and had my drums turned, I was happy and I never changed over. I also fixed up and adjusted my e-brake for good measure.

[rudf0rd]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The differential you likely have now is a Dana 44. It isn't bad, but not as strong as other differentials. I would look for a 12 bolt from a '73-'82 C10. The 8.5: 10 bolt from a '79-'86 C10 or a '87-'91 R1500 would be just fine as well. The durability of any differential is going to be relative to not only the HP and TQ coming from the engine, but also the size and compound of the rear tires.

I run 15 x 8" rally wheels on the front of my '66 Suburban without any rubbing issues. But then again, it is not lowered either, other than the added weight of the big block.

Thanks, this is great info. In your experience, what's been the best source to find these conversion parts? Pickings are slim on craigslist and pick n pull is always a crap shoot.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

On my '64 c10 longbed I split my brakes using a 1969 master cylinder. Pretty cheap, pretty simple, still 4 wheel drum but much safer and it stops great with good shoes and nice drums. Something like that would buy you time at a minimal cost. Just put a plug in the tee to the rear, add an extension to the line and get it to the new master. Then you could keep saving your money for doing the big changes all in one swoop. Edit: in fact, before I split the system I was planning on going disc, but after I did the m/c uprgade, threw on some new shoes and had my drums turned, I was happy and I never changed over. I also fixed up and adjusted my e-brake for good measure.

I read your comment on Friday before leaving town and it stuck with me. The more I think about it, the more this makes sense to try first. Quickest path to getting it back to driving, as well as best possibility for not buying something I won't use later. And in the meantime, I get to hunting for parts like the rear ends that capt spoke about.