Any newer front clips that will work with Task force checy

[Djditty]

I know this subject has been beaten to death and I have done some searching but can't find The answer I am looking for. I was all set to do a second gen front clip on my 56 3100, but my friend that is helping me with it keeps bugging me to try and find something newer that will work in a similar way. Keep in mind I will be bagging the truck to lay rockers and I am planning on doing a Thunderbird IRS as well. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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[Dan in Pasadena]

There are a variety of options but the tried-and-true Camaro have become common because they fit so well. You can use a '73-'87 C10 front clip, a Jaguar IFS or a Crown Victoria but they all have fitment issues to some degree. It just depends how much inconvenience you're willing to deal with to get "something newer"?

[dsraven]

stop at a speed shop in the know and get some ideas. it depends what you want to do. get a list of wants and don't wants and then look for a donor after that.
do you want to ride in the truck or just do short hauls and then look cool at the mall or car show.

[Djditty]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

There are a variety of options but the tried-and-true Camaro have become common because they fit so well. You can use a '73-'87 C10 front clip, a Jaguar IFS or a Crown Victoria but they all have fitment issues to some degree. It just depends how much inconvenience you're willing to deal with to get "something newer"?

Thanks Dan! Yeah those are the options that I had found as well. My buddy wants me to hit the junk yard with a tape measure and start measuring frames.
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[Djditty]

Originally Posted by dsraven

stop at a speed shop in the know and get some ideas. it depends what you want to do. get a list of wants and don't wants and then look for a donor after that.
do you want to ride in the truck or just do short hauls and then look cool at the mall or car show.

If we had any shops in my town I might. Haha! I've got nothing around here.
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[dwcsr]

call these guys, Kimbridge enterprises

7617 160th St SE
Snohomish, WA 98296
(425) 487-0763
they have a slide in clip based on G body S10 . its the fastest easiest clip you will ever do.

[Djditty]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

call these guys, Kimbridge enterprises

7617 160th St SE
Snohomish, WA 98296
(425) 487-0763
they have a slide in clip based on G body S10 . its the fastest easiest clip you will ever do.

Interesting! I will give them a call! Thank you!
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[dsraven]

decide what you want the truck to do and then ask around again. once you know what you want the truck to do that will rule out some ideas or manufacturers because of the range of ride height from bottom to top end. look at the geometry of the front ends as you decide what to do. a front end like a mustangII set up will work fine but if you plan to drop it in the weeds and then have a taller ride height then the stress on the front end becomes much more and the wheel lean is greater because of the short control arms and the difference in length between the upper and lower control arms. the tires will lean in like crazy in the weeds if it is aligned to have the tires vertical at ride height. also the bigger the difference between down and up the bigger the potential for toe in changes.
if you go for air ride then bank on a several grand just for the "air controls". then add for the compressors, tanks, solenoid valves, lines, fittings, bags, level indicators, guages, and the brain unit to run it all. talk to some guys who have air ride, check the accuair website for ball park pricing etc. the touchpad kit itself is about $3000.

cutting off the original frame and grafting in a clip sounds easy and looks not too bad unless you are the guy doing it. it is always good to have the donor car as a complete unit before the clip is cut out because then the ride height, control arm and frame angles etc can be copied so when installed into your truck it will be able to be aligned properly. maybe the money spent on a scotts (or whatever) IFS kit front end would be worth it then if you can bolt it in yourself, saving cash on welders etc. a really low truck means a bunch of frame and body work out back as well.
so, if you lop the front off and weld in a clip, then you lop the rear off and weld in a big c notch, really the only part of the frame that is old is the part under the cab. maybe it would be better to have a whole new frame without all the cutting and welding and costs incurred to say, at the end of the day, that you spent nearly as much as a custom frame but you ended up with a bunch of parts grafted together. grab a diagram of the frame on these trucks, it is nearly flat from front to rear except for a bump over the rear end and a slope in the front. not that big of a deal to fab up if you have the shop, time, tooling etc.
check out the CanadianHotrods site, they fab a whole frame with OEM corvette underpinnings. maybe get some ideas from there.the US dollar is equal to 1.34 Canadian right now, so good for you south boys to buy from us north boys at the moment

here is a quote from kabwe (on this site) who is talking about the 55-59 trucks. responding to the same question, basically.

"Mustang 2 units - they are cool but at the lower end of the aftermarket kits and it's what I could afford.
Flatout Engineering's cross remember - This would be my choice if I could do it again.

Jim Meyer, No Limit Engineering, Scotts hotrod, TCI, Progressive Automotive and Heidts Superide are really nice unit if you have the money.


so, like I said, decide what you want and then ask around. how much can you do yourself, welding etc. what do you have for tools to get the job done correctly and accurately, what do you have for space to work in, etc etc. do a work up before a tear down. plan on a complete rebuild of a clip if you go that way. control arm bushings,ball joints, brakes, tie rods and centre links etc etc. below is a pic of the TCI mustangII in my 57. looks easy but there are lots of things to consider. it is definately good to research before you pull out the grinder or torch. also included a frame diagram for you.

[mr48chev]

Contact Steve at http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/ about his crossmember for the TF trucks that runs Dodge Dakota pieces.

Ask him about running bags with it and being able to lay frame.

The crossmember for the TF trucks is 750 plus you need to find Dakota suspension and steering but it is well engineered. Best part is that you have no hassle getting your sheet metal to fit outside of a bit of inner fender trimming around the
A arms. No fabricating brackets for a radiator support, no fabricating bumper brackets,

If you are bent on a subframe swap the second generation Camaro is still one of the better ones as it is tried and proven and there are excellent instruction threads on the net Lux Blue did the go to thread on the HAMB a few years ago that gives great detailed instructions plus photos. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...ne-day.148978/ If you don't know about the Hamb it is a traditional hot rod and custom board that does not allow anything made after 1964 (65 with same body style like a Rivi) no billet wheels, no billet engine stuff an no LS or late engine discussion. No joining and then showing a photo of your ride rolling on 20's. I've been on it longer than I have been here but it isn't for everyone. Still read the thread to be able to fully understand that subframe swap.

I've got a Jag XJS front suspension that has been trimmed down and the spring buckets are cut out for bags but not finished and there are plates for bags for the lower A arms I drove down to Bend to get it but decided not to use it in the build I have going now. I decided not to use it now because it doesn't have coils or a sway bar with it.

The Crown Vic isn't that hard to put on a TF but the wheels set out wide on almost anything you put them on and the wheel choices are pretty limited if you want custom wheels that fit inside the fenders.

My personal opinion which isn't worth much is that "laying frame" is the goofiest automotive fad to ever come down the pike. Think about it for a minute. What is actually great about making your suspension look like is broken with the tops of the tires laying in several inches, and the truck looking like it has been abandoned for so long that it sank into the ground.

[dsraven]

hahaha, still laughing mr48. that is kinda what I think as well. hey, it's hotrodding and everybody has their own opinion about whats cool. thats fine. I just think, personally, that the layin frame look is kinda funny looking, like cartoonish. like the hydraulic suspensions that jack the rear up 4 ft or make the front end bounce off the ground or the gearshifts that touch the roof liner. whatever though, if you like it go for it. just make sure it is safe to be driven on the same roads as the rest of us and our families. I have seen some "home grown" things on vehicles that would definately NOT pass an inspection and all in the name of "cool". when asked the owners usually say they had to modify the steering parts because nobody makes anything like that. maybe a reason.....I like the look of a low slung truck but maybe not actually sitting on the ground. just me though. then again, I have the same thoughts on patina. I guess i grew up on the wrong side of the tracks and never had money to finish and paint my rides as a kid. they were always in some sort of primer or different coloured panels like a work in progress etc. spent too much time on the driveline and ability to go fast and stop fast. that was back in the day of MANY coats of laquer and huge sparkles, stripes and multiple colours. now, I think if I am spending all the time and effort to make a hotrod, I will paint it nicely as well. like it is finished. no patina for me. a show quality paint job looks waaay better in my books but, again, those patina trucks are built by the owners ideas and thats cool by them and thats what matters. some guys have made an art form out of making a fresh paint job look like it was just dragged in from the field. probably more time and effort spent there than if they just finish painted it.

end of rant
didn't mean to stir up any harsh feelings, sorry if I did
place long uncomfortable silence here
remainder of this page left intentionally blank

hahaha. ya gotta laugh
have a great day guys

[Djditty]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hahaha, still laughing mr48. that is kinda what I think as well. hey, it's hotrodding and everybody has their own opinion about whats cool. thats fine. I just think, personally, that the layin frame look is kinda funny looking, like cartoonish. like the hydraulic suspensions that jack the rear up 4 ft or make the front end bounce off the ground or the gearshifts that touch the roof liner. whatever though, if you like it go for it. just make sure it is safe to be driven on the same roads as the rest of us and our families. I have seen some "home grown" things on vehicles that would definately NOT pass an inspection and all in the name of "cool". when asked the owners usually say they had to modify the steering parts because nobody makes anything like that. maybe a reason.....I like the look of a low slung truck but maybe not actually sitting on the ground. just me though. then again, I have the same thoughts on patina. I guess i grew up on the wrong side of the tracks and never had money to finish and paint my rides as a kid. they were always in some sort of primer or different coloured panels like a work in progress etc. spent too much time on the driveline and ability to go fast and stop fast. that was back in the day of MANY coats of laquer and huge sparkles, stripes and multiple colours. now, I think if I am spending all the time and effort to make a hotrod, I will paint it nicely as well. like it is finished. no patina for me. a show quality paint job looks waaay better in my books but, again, those patina trucks are built by the owners ideas and thats cool by them and thats what matters. some guys have made an art form out of making a fresh paint job look like it was just dragged in from the field. probably more time and effort spent there than if they just finish painted it.

end of rant
didn't mean to stir up any harsh feelings, sorry if I did
place long uncomfortable silence here
remainder of this page left intentionally blank

hahaha. ya gotta laugh
have a great day guys

Hahaha! For me that's what makes the automotive world fun, all the different styles and such. Different strokes for different folks. Thanks for all the input guys. This project is my introduction to modification and fabrication, so honestly I don't mind cutting up the frame and welding. The guy who is helping me with this is VERY experienced with this sort of stuff and has been fabricating for longer then I've been alive. Haha! After it's all said and done I think I'm going to do the tried and true Camaro front clip.
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[dsraven]

how about this idea.
since ytou will be cutting the frame off, front and rear, and fabbing up a new rear section and also swapping in a front clip, why not just buy some extra material and weld up a whole new frame section that is the right width to match up to the front end of your choice. that way it will graft right into the clip. the rear suspension is all gonna be new anyway so that part wouldn't matter. weld the 4 link brackets where you want them for frame width you decide. the cab mounts can be modified to accept the original cab mounting width with a wider or narrower frame. the cross members are probably gonna be beefed up or placed in different spots anyway, to match up with your driveline, and clearanced to allow driveshaft movement. that way you get a fully boxed frame, the width you want, with good solid welds on clean new metal and it will be the same pice of metal from the C notch to the clip. I bet you would have it done before you had the old one cut off and mocked up etc. stop by a scrap steel place, pick up some large channel or whatever for a frame table and start up. get the table straight, parallel and level then the new rails can be tacked to it. sell the channel back when you are done or dump it on craigslist.
after having worked on my old frame for weeks, getting it dissassembled, blasted, filling un-needed holes, getting it straight, square, level, fabbing boxing plates and installing, etc, that is what I would do if I did it again. AND, your welder friend will be happy as well. grab a bigger copy of the frame diagram, from the assembly manual I think, and all your dimensions will be there.
just some thoughts. do what you wanna. then post some pics

[ChuckDriver]

Porter Built Fabrication has a new bolt in clip that uses bags or coil overs and a rear set-up too!




http://pbfab.com/shop-by-vehicle/che...9-chevy-trucks

[dsraven]

now that would be worth the money. bolt in. more time to fab rear suspension and then drive.

[Coupeguy2001]

I have a kimbridge front stub.
They ask you to cut too much frame off in my opinion.
My frame could have been 4 inches longer, and the welds would have been stronger.
That said,
I built up the entire front end on a work bench, and used an engine hoist to pick it up and wheel it over to the truck and slide it in.
You use the rear spring perch factory jig drilled holes for alignment/ positioning it in the frame.
Then use two jacks. and raise the stub up a bit. Install the front fenders, and raise and lower the stub till the fenders line up perfectly with the doors.
Then tighten the bolts in the frame, and then weld the stub in the frame.
put the wheels on, take the jacks out, and you have an instant roller.
from the time I cut the frame and removed the spring perches, and welded the frame, it was 6 hours.
It also allows for the professional welder to get set up, crawl under the truck, and weld it back together.
It's a good concept, except I was green at this, I did no test fitting, no trial and error, I believed that they had built so many of these that they just slide in and weld.
Wish I had looked it over better with the frame and the instructions instead of blindly just cutting as directed.
Here are the problems I ran into.
1. the truck was too low in the front because based on a G body, there are no big block springs available for off the shelf springs. no springs raised it up. I bought 3 different sets
and couldn't get it up in the air.

2. The spring pockets are slightly too small, and the springs rub on the spring pockets

3. I ended up buying QA1 coilovers, and 650 rate springs. That got it up finally.

4. The designer of this frame stub dropped the position of the front bumper an inch and a half. I hit the bumper everywhere i went.
I finally added metal to the bumper mounts and put the bumper back where it belongs.

5. The designer of the stub decided to move the front wheels back in the wheelwell to "center" the front wheels. but it looks like somebody didn't measure correctly.

6. With the truck finally at ride height, bumper working, and everything back together and about 8,000 miles on it, it does drive ok, and it handles ok as well.
I was able to get a bigger sway bar, and tubular upper control arms, and used a wider rear axle and spacers up front to give it the old "pontiac wide track" look.

7. The next problem i had was the lower shaft bushing on the steering column rattled. I cut a radiator hose and slid over the shaft and added a bearing that was 2" OD, and 1" Id and a couple clamps to hold the hose.
Problem solved.
It's not rattling now.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

call these guys, Kimbridge enterprises

7617 160th St SE
Snohomish, WA 98296
(425) 487-0763
they have a slide in clip based on G body S10 . its the fastest easiest clip you will ever do.

If that rack and pinon works like it appears that it does it doesn't look like it would have much travel. Does the steering linkage move with it?

[dwcsr]

7" travel 3 turns. The rack stays stationary and the linkage moves