50 pickup drop with m2/original frame

[Mgicm]

so have a 50 chevy 3100 with a m2 front end and original frame. sits so high... what might my options be? I see the rear has lowering block and leaf springs under (assume original). Is it the taller the block, the more the drop? These blocks look to be 3 inches. why is it sitting so high?

for the front with a m2 front end.. how does one drop it? lowering springs or spindles?

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Mgicm

so have a 50 chevy 3100 with a m2 front end and original frame. sits so high... what might my options be? I see the rear has lowering block and leaf springs under (assume original). Is it the taller the block, the more the drop? These blocks look to be 3 inches. why is it sitting so high?

for the front with a m2 front end.. how does one drop it? lowering springs or spindles?

Someone may really know those front ends and have an answer but I HIGHLY recommend you post photos so you get the correct information.

I have to assume they simply welded the MII front lower on the frame to raise the truck to a stock ride height.

Brian

[PDW HOTRODS]

Can you post pics? Any info on what M2 kit is in it? Was it 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck. 3 inch blocks are about max for the rear and if your doing more than just cruising could be a problem. Adding power with tall blocks, the rear can twist on the spring.

[Mgicm]

here is rear.. not understanding why it sits so high. yes its on 20 inch rims but...

[dsraven]

post a pic of the front end in relation to the frame.
MII would have available drop spindles which are better than drop springs, in my opinion, because they keep the control arm level at ride height so the geometry isn't messed up.
post a pic of the rear spring hangers as well, kinda looks like the front hanger is hanging low below the frame compared to stock.

[Mgicm]

guess im trying to understand.. if it was all stock how woudl you lower rear and how much could it be lowered? or do i have to get into cnotch type of work.

here are photos

[dsraven]

hopefully those blocks all have the stud/dowel protruding and fit into the appropriate hole in the aligning part. u bolts alone are not made to keep the diff from sliding fore and aft on the springs. also, you may want to check the pinion angles against the trans output pinion angle.
S10 diff?

[dsraven]

you could raise (like get some new ones) the hangers up on the frame as long as you have room and the springs will still line up. kinda looks like the springs are under the frame instead of next to the frame so that is a consideration. you could still have the springs next to the frame but would need new spring pads on the axle and new hangers for the frame.you will need at least 3 inches above the diff axle tube and even then the axle may hit the frame over speed bumps. you could also use a lesser number of spring leafs but that will also make a softer ride which will enable the axle to hit the frame easier.
get the front end sitting where you want it and then do the rear end, springs, c-notch whatever you need in the end.

[Mgicm]

ok anyone have photos of a stock rear lowered as much as possible without cnotch? curious how it looks and stands

[PDW HOTRODS]

47-53 had the spring under frame, later 50's have them on the side. Do you have a pic of the rear shackles of the rear springs. They might be too long. Any pic of the front end yet? Do you know what front kit was used? I have heard of MII kits that are designed to keep ride hight up closer to stock. Also someone could have mounted it lower on the frame to raise it. An overall side view pic of the truck might help too.

[oldman3]

Mgicm, here's my input on the rear suspension.

Pic 1 This is a stock rear front spring hanger. From bottom of frame to center of spring eye is 4", and rear hanger with shackle is about the same. The stock spring is 1-3/4 inch wide. It's easy to spend someone else's money but LMC sells a 3" dropped rear spring for $429.95 http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=35. I have not talked to LMC, but I assume (yeah I know), that the spring is 1-3/4" wide and would bolt up to stock hangers.

This would move you up approx 3" into the rear fender.

I will post up about the 2nd option next.

[oldman3]

Again spending someone else's money. Is a complete rear suspension kit from someone like Chassis Engineering (their are others). http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com...selling&page=2

I used a kit like this. (not from Chassis Engineering, but another company no longer in business). Here are a few pics.

Pic 1 Here was the kit I used.

Pic 2 Here it is mounted to frame. You can see the front hanger bolted into the old stock location. (you have to remove rivets and old hanger). From bottom of frame to rear front hanger is 1-1/2". This moves you up 2.5". Rear hanger moves up about 1". The newer spring is 2-3/8" wide.

[oldman3]

Now let's talk about the MII setup. Not sure how yours was installed but heres some pics of mine.

Pic 1 Here's my MII installed, notice I installed a solid tube (in place of spring) to keep lower "A" arms parelle to the crossmember. This pic was with stock spindle, that I later changed to 2" dropped spindles.

Pic 2 Here is the stock spindle on the right, and 2" drop spindle on the left.

Pic 3 Not a good pic, but you can see the difference with stock on the pass. side and dropped on the drivers side.

Pic 4 This is how my truck sits with my set-up.

I hope all the above info, was what you were asking for. I if can help anymore let me know...Jim

[Lo1dakota]

Here is my truck. Not a mustang 2up front yet.
3" drop axle
3" lowering leafs front and rear
2" Lowering blocks out back
No notch. Not necessary

15" wheels 235/75 tire.

[Jesse Z]

I'm going through the same thing: old OEM Mustang II installation, truck sitting very high - apparently to emulate original stock ride attitude. In the front I've installed dropped spindles and cut a coil off the springs. In the rear I installed 3" lowering springs. Won't know final ride height until the engine is installed and the springs settle but for now it's looking much improved.

PS: You'd have to get tuner/ricer/bagger low to need a C-notch. I have under 3" clearance in the rear; I bounce-tested it without shock absorbers installed and couldn't even come making it hit.

[jweb]

Mustang II suspensions can vary quite a bit in height. On some of the older ones the Upper spring mount is welded to the side of the frame, these end up closer to stock height.

I have an older JW rod garage set-up and that's how it works. Even with 2" drop spindles and QA-1 coilovers it sits higher than I would like.My running boards are 9" off the ground. The only advantage is it leaves enough room to mount my LS1/4L60 without modifying the firewall.

The other thing to consider is your tire diameter, I have 20" wheels and 255/40/20 tires that gives me a 28" diameter.