any suggestions for brake upgrades?

[iriereggaeman]

My '72 Suburban has stock brakes near as I can tell, and it can be scary slowing quickly from highway speeds. I'm looking for an improved braking experience.

Anyone have opinions on a reasonably priced upgrade? Suggestions for manufacturers or components? Thanks!

[Burbor]

Is your Burb 4x4 or RWD? That changes the answer dramatically, I believe. 4x4 options are apparently slim to none, at least I couldn't find much. Either way though, the only thing that might be classified as a reasonable price upgrade is brake pads/shoes with a higher friction coefficient. I guess it is relative to your budget.
Check out this info: http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm

I had Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic pads, which were labeled "EE". I swapped to some "FF" pads, and it seemed to help a little bit. Next time I need pads I'll probably get the Raybestos "EHT" pads (EHT52 for a stock caliper). These are apparently rated "GG". In addition, you could look at high performance pads from companies like Hawk, EBC, Wilwood, etc.

[kwmech]

Yes---Description and pics of what you have right now. 2wd/4wd? 4wd lift kit? tire size?

[Bigdav160]

Brakes are also different between half and three quarter ton.

For improved braking I am switching to hydroboost power assist

[iriereggaeman]

Thanks Burbor, Bigdav160 and kwmech! This forum never disappoints.

Some additional information, as requested:
"Big Yeller" is a 4x4. Tires are 33 x 12.5. I'm not sure if there's a lift kit...seems like it based solely on the height of the vehicle. (I have a '83 Jeep Scrambler with a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires that sits about the same height) A few pics, without removing the wheels:











I'd guess my budget for some upgrades would be around $2000. Does that help?

I'll see what Hawk, EBC, and Wilwood have to offer.

Thanks!

[Bigdav160]

Look like stock half ton brakes. IMO, they are underwhelming and the sad thing is GM really didn't do anything to improve them over the decades.

Wheel diameter will limit how large a brake package can fit. Moving up to 3/4 ton sized front axle brakes, only gives you a 1/2" larger front rotor. And while the rear drums are substantially larger in the 3/4 ton and the power booster is dual diaphragm instead of single, I don't think the brakes are anything to write home about.

That's why I am going hydroboost for the power assist. It can apply a lot more pressure than vacuum assist. It works great in my daily drivers.

Oh yea, you have blocks in the rear so there is a small lift.

[franken]

My thought would be hydroboost as well...

[richard2717]

Is it just me or do those rotors look heated and glazed? That could be part of your issue. Look for small cracks in them. Does it shake any when coming to a stop?

[Bigdav160]

Perhaps a member here?

Car Crash, woman runs red light, gets t-boned -...

[iriereggaeman]

good info Bigdav160 ! I'm learning more and more about my rig - only had her for about a year. (The video isn't my girl, I don't believe. Rear doors aren't barn.)

I'll look into the Hydroboost option. Thanks richard2717 - I'll have a look at the rotors. No shaking when I stop - just not a very effective stop.

[Burbor]

I am now happy with the brakes on my Burb. It took me a bunch of trials to get where its at now. Truck is a 1969 K10 4x4, I swapped in a 1986 GM 10-bolt front axle to get discs on the front. New stock rotors and hubs. Tires are 265/75/16 Geolanders.

Problems I had:
-Pedal was hard(er) to press, not spongy at all. It was like there was not enough assist from the booster, but there was some assist. In stop and go traffic, my leg would fatigue. Multiple different boosters tested, no help.
-Rear brakes would lock up well before the fronts. Stock 11" rear drums, in good shape.

I'll outline what I have done:
1) Modified the stock brake linkage system (between the firewall and the booster). I moved the pedal rod pivot point closer to the booster rod pivot point. This means your foot is at less of a disadvantage, making it easier to push the brake pedal, at the expense of a little bit more pedal travel. This helped a little bit.
2) Installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. Once adjusted, this eliminated the rear locking up. This didn't help with pedal effort (of course).
3) Installed the "FF" friction coefficient pads mentioned earlier. This helped a little bit more.
4) Installed 3/4 Ton front calipers. Piston diameter is greater: 3-5/32" vs. 2 15/16". The pads are the same for 1/2 T or 3/4 T. The caliper mounting is the same. The axle I used actually came with one of each caliper on it when I bought it. I had to massage the flex hoses a bit, nothing major though. A little grinding and a slight bend.
5) New master cylinder. Stock disc brake, cast iron reservoir.

Brakes are now on par with other newer trucks I have driven. Not a sports car by any stretch, but what I'd call great for a truck.

[iriereggaeman]

Hey richard2717 - I looked closer at my rotors, and didn't see any cracks or signs of glazing.

Nice summary of all your efforts Burbor. Sounds like a complete overhaul of what GM gave us.

Looking at some picture of Hydroboost installations, I'm guessing I don't have hydroboost: (can you confirm?)

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by iriereggaeman

Looking at some picture of Hydroboost installations, I'm guessing I don't have hydroboost: (can you confirm?)

Attachment 1704675

Correct you have vacuum boost. Hydroboost would have extra lines coming off of your power steering pump to feed the booster behind the master cylinder

Here is a decent thread to take a look at.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523502

Richard

[kwmech]

My '91 burb has pretty much the same issue being a 1/2 ton with pass car size brakes. Like my last suburban I will be upgrading to 3/4 ton axles with 13'' drums on the back, swapping out the front rotors to 8 lug and putting in a 3/4 ton master cylinder. Makes a huge difference

[davepfanmiller@yahoo]

I also have brake issues with my '72. I've been looking for an upgrade kit. I'm not the fabricator some of you guys are. what is the light gage electrical wire that comes from the firewall to the proportioning valve on IRIEREGGAEMAN's vehicle?

thanks,
Capt Dave

[Bigdav160]

It's a switch for the brake warning lamp. A brake fluid leak would cause a pressure differential in the valve triggering the switch.

[iriereggaeman]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

It's a switch for the brake warning lamp. A brake fluid leak would cause a pressure differential in the valve triggering the switch.

Yes it is! In fact, it triggered this past week when the master cylinder leaked enough.

I have a Wilwood Hydroboost replacement kit on order from Performance Online. I'll update this thread once I get it installed - hopefully in the next couple weeks.

[iriereggaeman]

guess what arrived? Can't wait to get this hydroboost installed!

[LockDoc]

[QUOTE=iriereggaeman;8182142]guess what arrived? Can't wait to get this turboboost installed!


Wow, that looks pretty impressive! Looks like it should go on a jet plane or something....

LockDoc

[iriereggaeman]

Reman. Hydroboost kit from Wilwood has been installed. Spent the weekend putting more than a hundred miles on it. It takes some getting used to, but is soooo much more effective stopping the old girl.

[iriereggaeman]

side note: I have my old vacuum brakes rig that I don't need any more. Any suggestions? I'm not too familiar with the rules on this, so apologies in advance if I crossed some line.

[Average Joe]

Nice work and thanks for the update. Its always a good feeling when an aftermarket part performs as advertised.

Fyi: I believe you have to be a paying member to sell parts. $25 a year IIRC.

[Bigdav160]

I finished my hydraboost installation also but since I have the doors, hood and fender off (replacing rocker panels) my test drives have been reserved for the parking lot.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by iriereggaeman

side note: I have my old vacuum brakes rig that I don't need any more. Any suggestions? I'm not too familiar with the rules on this, so apologies in advance if I crossed some line.

If you are giving it away, no problem. If you are going to sell it you need to be a paying member to sell it on here. If you click on the word "Subscribe" in the menu bar above it will list all of the membership options.

LockDoc

[iriereggaeman]

I have no idea what it's worth, but didn't want it going in the dumpster, since it was functional when I removed it.