Starts then dies

[Yurchaka1]

I have a 65 C10 with a 230 straight 6 that will fire up but then die after just a few seconds. Last week it wouldn't start at all and I noticed that my fuel filter was empty when cranking and diagnosed the fuel pump as bad. I put in a Carter M4503 fuel pump and replaced the rubber fuel lines and it started up. Few days later I went to start it and it died a few seconds after starting. If I give it some gas it'll last a few seconds longer but not much. I replaced the fuel filter which was horrible but didn't help. I confirmed gas is getting all the way to the carb (Rochester B). I also tried to pour some gas directly into the carb while my wife started it but that didn't help either. I've always had to full choke it to start and keep about halfway to a quarter on to prevent stalling out at red lights so I'm thinking the carb is clogged and maybe needs a rebuild.

I'd really appreciate any thoughts or suggestions to confirm or deny what I'm thinking.

[my56chevytruck]

I'm not an engine guru but possibly the needle in the carburetor is stuck not allowing gas to flow properly? Any gas leaking around the carburetor, I assume you've checked this. How does the engine run when it does??

[Yurchaka1]

Don't see gas leaking but there does look to be some build up around the gaskets so it may be slowly seeping out over time. It does sound good when it starts up so I think it's just not getting fuel. I've never done anything with carbs other than adjusting the idle and mixture screws so I'll have to look into how to mess with that needle that's possibly stuck.

Thanks for your response.

[Ken Cook]

When I got my truck, a year ago. It would run then die. After setting it would run then do the samething. I changed filters, then the tank, then the carburetor. Each time things got better.
The guy that sells the carburetor told me to buy a meter called a TA-100 to check my spark.
Long story short. My fuel system needed attention but my coil was also going bad. It’s been running pretty good lately.
Now I’m about to upgrade the manifolds and the carburetor to a 2 barrel. Not sure what to do with the year old Daytona carb.

[Yurchaka1]

I did recently replace a lot of electrical including coil, plugs, distributor, and the connections to each and it seems to start up quicker than before. Today I'll try to knock the float/needle loose since I've read that can be as easy as knocking the carb with the back end of a screwdriver but i think the carb needs some significant cleaning or rebuild. Can't find any mechanic local that works on carbs so I might have to just dive in based on YouTube videos. Thanks for the input.

[Ken Cook]

I took my stock carb apart and tore the gasket. After looking for a kit and running the numbers on my carb I figured out it was made up of 3 different years. In other words it was a rebuilt carb that had been bought from a parts store. The base, midsection and top were from the late 50's, 60's and early 70's.
I ended up buying a new Daytona 1 barrel carb about a year ago.
Fast forward...in deciding how to fix an exhaust leak at the 2 manifolds, I bought a Clifford intake, Langdon headers and Hollie 2 barrel carb.
If you decide to replace the carb you might be interested in the one I just took off my truck. If you want it I'd let it go for $100+shipping.
You could also call Daytona parts and talk with the old man over there. He is very helpful and he sells the carburetor kit to rebuild what you have right now.
https://daytonaparts.com/universal-r...arburetor.html

[Yurchaka1]

Took the top of the carb off and found a torn off rubber pieces between the attachment of the fuel line and the needle in the carb. Removed that and now it runs but it still needs just a little weight on the gas to keep it going. I'm thinking it just needs further cleaning/rebuild and maybe an idle screw adjustment. I'll look into that rebuild kit from Daytona. Thanks again for your help.