47-55.1 Battery Placement Question

[J48chevy]

So wondering if anyone has done this or has thoughts as to why or why not. Looking at possibly installing the battery inside of this storage box I plan on putting in bed. Just not sure I want to put the battery under the truck like it was originally. Looking at other options.

[mongocanfly]

Should be ok....

[joedoh]

why not under the hood? lots of room and closer to the starter. someday you may want to haul something in the bed, or more importantly you may want to haul NOTHING in the bed.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by joedoh

why not under the hood? lots of room and closer to the starter. someday you may want to haul something in the bed, or more importantly you may want to haul NOTHING in the bed.

No room under hood now with vintage air installed. I was thinking the storage box and use the battery holder mounted inside of this. Then I can use it for storage as well.

[mr48chev]

That should work great in the tool box as long as you run a heavy enough cable.

Years ago I had the battery under my hood on my 48 for a short time. Ruined a finned aluminum valve cover after battery crud dripped on it and besides that the only thing uglier under the hood than a power brake booster and master cylinder is a battery.

[dsraven]

don't forget to vent the box.
the last thing I would want in my truck box is a battery box or anything permanently mounted like that. ia battery is really is a rarely serviced item these days, why not on the frame or something? still accessible if the battery box is built for that plus totally out of the way.battery closer to largest current draw item is best or at least install the correct gauge cable for the starter draw.
your truck, do it how you like it. you can always change it later if you don't like it.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That should work great in the tool box as long as you run a heavy enough cable.

Years ago I had the battery under my hood on my 48 for a short time. Ruined a finned aluminum valve cover after battery crud dripped on it and besides that the only thing uglier under the hood than a power brake booster and master cylinder is a battery.

What gauge cable should I use if I were to do this?

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

don't forget to vent the box.
the last thing I would want in my truck box is a battery box or anything permanently mounted like that. ia battery is really is a rarely serviced item these days, why not on the frame or something? still accessible if the battery box is built for that plus totally out of the way.battery closer to largest current draw item is best or at least install the correct gauge cable for the starter draw.
your truck, do it how you like it. you can always change it later if you don't like it.

Thanks. Yes planned on doing some venting as well if I end up doing this. I just was thinking I could close the floor access off and do that.

[dsraven]

it depends on the max draw, from starter usually. the temp. the length of the cables.
take a look at this, it's for winch cable but a winch motor is like a starter motor

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/elec...ire-winch.html

or this from crutchfield, scroll down for the chart

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kentGH...uge_chart.html

you also need to either have the cable ends installed for you or ensure you get it right so you don't end up with a high resistance cable terminal that will cause a voltage drop and a heat source. if you try a starter/alternator rebuilder they will usually be able to supply the cable required and also install the terminal ends required for your application. cheaper than buying the crimp tool likely. they may also have red cable to mark the positive for you and will install proper shrink tube over the crimped terminal ends. ensure to install a ground strap from the engine to the frame and cab as well. frame to rad support is also a good one that is commonly overlooked. anywhere that supplies a ground to an accesory will need to have a dedicated ground. there is no use running the headlight ground to the rad support if the rad support isn't grounded.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by J48chevy

No room under hood now with vintage air installed. I was thinking the storage box and use the battery holder mounted inside of this. Then I can use it for storage as well.

unless under your hood is more crowded than mine, I am going to politely disagree

IMG_2168 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I cut a tray in the ONLY SPOT it would fit on this truck. on another truck I hung it from the passenger firewall and on still another I hung it dead center firewall above the engine.

[Shinysideup]

I dont get it? It works great in the original location.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by Shinysideup

I dont get it? It works great in the original location.

Yeah that is what I am trying to decide but thought if I mounted in box it would be easier to get too and I could close up the floor access area.

[whitedog76]

What about an AGM battery under the seat or behind the seat where the fuel tank was?

[J48chevy]

Yeah I have read up on that too but seems like a lot say not to do that.

[dsraven]

I would think, looking at your project on another thread, that a battery inside would be just as hard to access as a battery under the bed or under the floor of the cab. even if the seats were slid all the way forward and tipped ahead you still need to get the dang thing out from behind the seats. sounds like a back strain to me. how about a battery tray frame mounted in behind the filler panel from the box to the running board, any room there for an access door? a trap door in the box floor? some sort of mechanism to allow the frame mounted battery tray to come down to the ground level, possibly an electric linear actuator? personally I think the shiny alum checkerplate box looks too modern for the look of the truck. that's just me though. an old rounded corner coleman cooler would possibly look more era correct if you could find one, or make something like that.
oh, I got it! a hydraulic tilt truck box would allow access to anything under the box. solved!
lol.

[dsraven]

how about splitting the entire running board section, behind the cab, and removing it as a section for access to a frame mounted battery behind the panel? like some highway trucks do. you may need some running board re-inforcements in case big aunty decides to step on the runner for a look inside the box, but it could be done. more work. it would negate the access panel in the passenger's floor though.....easier than lifting a 50 lb battery from between the buckets.
just some thoughts, not my truck, do what works for you

[dsraven]

some modern cars have the battery in the front fender well, dunno if you have room for that but it's another thought.

[J48chevy]

Dsraven. Thanks for the suggestions. More and more I think about it I will just probably leave it in the stock position versus trying to move things around. That is just me trying to take simple things and make more work for myself. Haha

[dsraven]

That is just me trying to take simple things and make more work for myself. Haha


thats what us hotrodders do isn't it? take simple functioning things and make them complex? haha.
if you keep it in the stock place you just need to make a hole in the carpet for access i guess. some carpet shops have the machine to sew a nice edge around the outside so it would still look great.
I suggest to use those remote boost points so you have access to battery power if you find the need some day. they could be placed somewhere easily accessed but out of site generally.
I placed my battery under the box floor and used a couple of these under the hood. that way it is easily boosted if required. keep in mind this truck is a work in progress (messy pic).

https://www.amazon.ca/Cole-Hersee-46.../dp/B001FQN4DS

[edgeleycanuck]

Classic performance sells a drop down battery box, I believe it sits in the stock location. Not sure how handy they are either but I suppose it is an option.....

[Shinysideup]

I was also curious and read up on your build. Clean, well thought-out, and very similar in many things I did on mine. I had also modified my floor/tunnel/firewall and needed custom carpet. I was able to buy from ACC(auto custom carpets- they supply ALL vendors) and fit it with help of an upholsterer. I made a panel to trim ouit the battery door and custom mats(not shown) overtop of that. Just wanted to show if that helps because it took me awhile to figure out how to trim it to look/work right. I used a stainless boat hatch latch on one side and tabs on the opposite side to change how it opened to work with carpeting. Im sure you will find a way that works for you and reflects the quality of your build.

[J48chevy]

Wow that looks great. That was my biggest concern with carpet but yours is nice and clean. Thanks for the pics.

[dsraven]

that carpet was done very well with some thought. the piece goes right to the floor edge part for a natural finish and is all the carpet is trimmed nicely on all the cuts. if youre concerned with a different thickness of underlayment where the access door fits just glue a thinner piece to the underside of the removable part.should work out well and look great.
I guess no hydraulic tilting bed then? lol.

[J48chevy]

Haha. No tilting bed in my budget.

[MiraclePieCo]

A couple of my battery locations: