Another Factory AC Drier Question

[Rufas]

I'm getting the factory AC back together on my 1970 GMC. I picked up a drier from O'Reillys. Neither port is marked as IN or OUT. I'm thinking the line leading from the condenser to the drier should go to the port on the drier that is directly connected to the sight glass.

Anyone know it that's correct?

Thanks

[Andy4639]

I don't think it matter's as far as operation. As far as which way is the normal way I think it may have to do with the fittings. Have you looked to see if they are different sizes. It's been a long time since I delt with one but that is sticking in my head for some reason.
Most dryer have the window in the middle of it on top anyway.

[Rufas]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

I don't think it matter's as far as operation. As far as which way is the normal way I think it may have to do with the fittings. Have you looked to see if they are different sizes. It's been a long time since I delt with one but that is sticking in my head for some reason.
Most dryer have the window in the middle of it on top anyway.

Both fitting are number six male. One of the ports is a straight shot to the sight glass (window). The other port goes in and immediately turns down into the drier canister. I think I'll connect the port with the sight glass to the line coming from the bottom of the condenser.

Thanks

[RichardJ]

It does make a difference and the port with the sight glass is probably the outlet.
Open your eyeballs and take a closer look. It will be marked in some fashion. It's too important not to be marked.

[Rufas]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

It does make a difference and the port with the sight glass is probably the outlet.
Open your eyeballs and take a closer look. It will be marked in some fashion. It's too important not to be marked.

There aren't any marking. But from your illustration I'm connecting the line from the condenser to the port that does not go directly to the sight glass.

Your info is exactly the information I was looking for.


Thanks!!!

[mrein3]

I installed a factory AC setup on my truck. The receiver/dryer has both sides with female fittings. On the aftermarket receiver/dryer I bought it had one port clearly marked "IN". That port is hooked up to the condenser. I snapped a photo last night.

[phlegm]

Can someone point me to the authoritative get your old AC working again thread? I am about to go through this. I know Compressor and Dryer need changing. What about expansion valve and is there an inline filter or Orifice tube? those kinds of questions.... I cant find it

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by phlegm

Can someone point me to the authoritative get your old AC working again thread? I am about to go through this. I know Compressor and Dryer need changing. What about expansion valve and is there an inline filter or Orifice tube? those kinds of questions.... I cant find it

Depends on which path you choose. If going old school with complete factory AC system are going custom.

Factory style system.
Compressor, drier, POA valve blow out all the lines, no orifice tube.

Custom, again depends on what you do.
Same as above but will need orifice tube installed in the line going up to the Condensor. Instead of a drier use a accumulator.
Some good info here.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ditioners.html




I went with a factory look but updated to 134 A freon and used a kit from Classic air group to swap over from the big a-6 compressor to the smaller one.

Mine has been in the truck since the late 80's and works well. I put the orifice tube in the connection under the battery.
This is the old setup. It now has a LS 6.0 in it.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

[COLOR="Red"][B]Depends on which path you choose. If going old school with complete factory AC system are going custom.

Factory style system.
Compressor, drier, POA valve blow out all the lines, no orifice tube.

Custom, again depends on what you do.
Same as above but will need orifice tube installed in the line going up to the Condensor. Instead of a drier use a accumulator.

Thanks! I had someone do a $&^( conversion to 134 for me years ago and they didnt tell me that It would likely pop the compressor. and they didnt change the dryer when they did it. Had I known I would have put Freeze 12 in there and called it a day.

So Now I think I am just going to put a Factory style with the 135 A6 on there, at least I think that makes sense from what I am seeing online.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by phlegm

Thanks! I had someone do a $&^( conversion to 134 for me years ago and they didnt tell me that It would likely pop the compressor. and they didnt change the dryer when they did it. Had I known I would have put Freeze 12 in there and called it a day.

So Now I think I am just going to put a Factory style with the 135 A6 on there, at least I think that makes sense from what I am seeing online.

Make sure if you use the POA valve you have it set for 134A freon. It will have to be set and you will need all new O-rings and oil to go with it. Blow all the lines out good and whatever you do pull a good vacuum on it after you put it back together.

[RichardJ]

>>Blow all the lines out good and whatever you do pull a good vacuum <<

It has been mentioned a couple of times about blowing the lines out.
You really should use a AC Flush Solvent. Pour it through in both directions and let it soak for awhile. The lines need to be flushed as well.

You don't pour it through the compressor or the Accumulator or Dryer depending on the system.

If changing from R12 with mineral oil to 134, I pour ester oil into the compressor (off the engine) and turn the compressor by hand until all the old mineral oil and the Ester oil has been flushed and drained out.
Then add the correct amount of new ester oil to the system.

You should be careful blowing out the hoses, evap and condenser if you have an old air compressor the uses a lot of oil. My air compressor is in good shape, but I make sure the compressor hasn't run in several hours before I blow the excess Flush out.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by phlegm

Can someone point me to the authoritative get your old AC working again thread? I am about to go through this. I know Compressor and Dryer need changing. What about expansion valve and is there an inline filter or Orifice tube? those kinds of questions.... I cant find it

Years ago, 2010?, I converted a non-AC cab to a AC (factory style) cab and scabbed together a working system.

I converted to R134a. You can skip that part if you don't want to convert.

I don't use the AC a lot but I do cycle it on often to make sure it works and to also send oil around the system.

I'm not claiming it is the "authoritative get your old AC working again thread" but you can check it out here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478564