T-5 swap time

[slepysal]

Last week my three speed decided it was time to retire. Instead of tying to rebuild it I am going to install a T-5. I have all the components except for a bell housing reducer ring ( on order ) Stay tuned!
RIP 3 Speed

[Captainfab]

I think you will like the T5.

[slepysal]

Well I ran into my first snag.
The PO installed an aluminum "full" bell housing.
I have removed all the bolts but am unable to get it off due to it not clearing the transmission crossmember.
ANY ideas ? I am almost tempted cut the crossmember off and run a rear trans support on the t5

[Chevy Fleetside]

Unbolt the engine and move it forward. I couldn't get my bell housing off ether when I was doing my clutch. I was able to unbolt the pressure plate and change it out without removing the bell housing. I was just throwing a temp clutch in until I pulled it and am now rebuilding everything

[Chevy Fleetside]

Or you can just grind down the rivets and remove the cross member and bolt it back in if you need it.

[slepysal]

Thanks I'm not seeing any rivets..its a 60 so the frame and it looks to be welded on. I don't have a lift to move the motor

[slepysal]

20200628_083215.jpg

[Captainfab]

Just cut that bellhousing crossmember out of there. You aren't using it so as you have found out, it is in the way. You must already have a transmission crossmember then, so you won't have to build a new one.

[slepysal]

Thanks . The po had some L brackets to support the bellhousing to the
bell mount crossmember. I picked up an original automatic crossmember a while back and will use that instead. ....

[Asshat]

Hey - diefinitely following this - I may want to do this also.

What is the ratio of your rear differential?

[jocko]

Though a little painful this go round considering you mentioned you don't have a hoist, but why not remove the bellhousing and replace it with a stock GM truck bell with the open bottom so you don't have to a) go thru this again every time you replace the clutch and/or b) hack up the original mounts? They work fine without an original bell housing and no rear trans support is required. Old bellhousings are a dime a dozen - but you would need to ensure you grab one with the correct index ring diameter (or also buy an index ring adapter, additional cost - but since you'd be shopping, you can choose wisely 1st time out). Just a thought.

Glad you are getting around to this upgrade, you'll be very happy with it - it's been a while since I posted this thread, but sharing in case you might learn from some of my mistakes!

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Hey - diefinitely following this - I may want to do this also.

What is the ratio of your rear differential?

the trans has a 2.95 first with a .63 od and I am Running 3.73 out back so it should be a nice combo.
Captain fab Thanks for the insite
Jocko I have your T5 post saved great write up

So I have to sit and think about my choices..... I can:

A) Cut the Aluminum bell housing off and use the super rare( lol) 1960-62 V-8 1/2 bellhousing with the the slave cylinder on the passenger side , source a new starter fab up a new clutch hose and hope that bell mounts line up.

B) Cut the whole crossmember off and keep the full aluminum bell that is on there now This would allow me to keep what I have .starter and
hydraulic clutch set up on the driverside. I have two automatic crossmembers an original 60-62 and a custom made one.
they both are about 4 inches short of where the T-5 tail mount is, and I would have to address the offset Camaro trans mount.

C) Trim the crossmember ( sort of like pancaking a front crossmember) and follow the same steps as above

[MikeN]

If you put a jack under the oil pan of your engine (using a block of wood to protect the pan, of course) and leaving the engine bolted to the motor mounts, can you raise the rear of the engine enough (essentially tipping the engine forward) to give enough clearance to get that bellhousing out of there?

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by MikeN

If you put a jack under the oil pan of your engine (using a block of wood to protect the pan, of course) and leaving the engine bolted to the motor mounts, can you raise the rear of the engine enough (essentially tipping the engine forward) to give enough clearance to get that bellhousing out of there?

Yes I tried that but still couldn't get it out!! It just wont clear the crossmember .
I was able to talk to the previous owner ( my old boss) and he said when he put the 250 he did it with the tranny installed.. sort of explains why it wont clear.
The good thing is that I am in no big rush...

[Captainfab]

So the trans crossmember that was under the rear of the 3 speed won't work? Can it be modified to work?

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

So the trans crossmember that was under the rear of the 3 speed won't work? Can it be modified to work?

There was no crossmember under my old three speed. I do have two rear crossmembers but they bolt at the original 1960 mount position and are about 15" from the rear of the Bell. The T5 rear mount is about 17".


Question for you Captain: The 1/2 bell I have has threads on the mounting flanges.If I go that route do I just thread a bolt from the bottom of the crossmember into the bell? Thanks in advance

[cwcarpenter98]

Here is a recent discussion on the mounts in question

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Here is a recent discussion on the mounts in question

Thanks ... further proof I am getting old!! I read that post earlier and saw the bolt size but spaced on the way it installs !!!

[Captainfab]

You mean to tell me that the PO did away with the original bellhousing which supports the rear of the engine and the trans, installed a standard bellhousing and did not install a transmission mount under the rear of the transmission? What was holding up the trans and the rear of the engine and keeping everything stable? Just from the look of the picture, if you do back to the original style bellhousing, you will have to move the engine back as well. You will need the correct mounts between the bellhousing and the cro9ssmember and also the rubber cushions up inside the crossmember which the bolts pass thru. Personally, I would cut the bellhousing crossmember out and put a rear trans mount in place. If you need help with the crossmember, let me know.

Originally Posted by slepysal

There was no crossmember under my old three speed. I do have two rear crossmembers but they bolt at the original 1960 mount position and are about 15" from the rear of the Bell. The T5 rear mount is about 17".


Question for you Captain: The 1/2 bell I have has threads on the mounting flanges.If I go that route do I just thread a bolt from the bottom of the crossmember into the bell? Thanks in advance

[slepysal]

Thanks Captain.... I will most likely be asking !!! Sorry .. there was no crossmember at the rear of the old 3 speed. The po used these brackets ( been on there for the last 15+years) mounted on the stock crossmember .

[slepysal]

This is the " rare" 1960 bellhousing

[Captainfab]

OK, so there was at least some sort of support back there.

[slepysal]

Well I got it off !!!
I removed the clutch with the bell on . I used the throw out fork hole rotating it to get the pressure plate bolts off.
The disc slid out but not the P/plate.
Out came the cut off wheel . I trimmed about an inch off of the bottom of the bell and out it came. I test fit the original bell and it will work
Used my impact gun on the flywheel and then it happened big time bone head move. The fly wheel was stuck so I gave it a good tug and off it came smashing my fingers . Ahh the fun of working in your drive way!!

[ChiefRocka]

Whats up Sal !!!!!

[slepysal]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Whats up Sal !!!!!

John BRO!!! Hope you are doing good