Another lowering thread.

[ChevyRacefan]

Hello,

The front I have 2.5" spindles and 3" springs. and rear, 3-5" springs (guess depends on weight in back, long bed would drop more than a short)
And 2.5" blocks.

Should I Assume I will need a c-notch. And the no hop trailing arm cross member mounts.

The front springs might change to 2" if the 3" drops it too much.
I figured the 50 year old originals, had sagged at least an inch. So going by where it sits now+1" . won't know till the parts go on.
The rear will Then need adjustment to my ballpark needed drop, to level it to front. will do that with the blocks,

Should I just plan on notching, and the long arm mounts?

I know I will be needing shims to get the pinion angle in check, have those.

The shock relocation brackets, I am going to assume will be needed, Some say they put the shocks outside the frame, does that limit wheel width? Are they all outside the frame rail?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan

Hello,

The front I have 2.5" spindles and 3" springs. and rear, 3-5" springs (guess depends on weight in back, long bed would drop more than a short)
And 2.5" blocks.

Should I Assume I will need a c-notch. And the no hop trailing arm cross member mounts.

The front springs might change to 2" if the 3" drops it too much.
I figured the 50 year old originals, had sagged at least an inch. So going by where it sits now+1" . won't know till the parts go on.
The rear will Then need adjustment to my ballpark needed drop, to level it to front. will do that with the blocks,

Should I just plan on notching, and the long arm mounts?

I know I will be needing shims to get the pinion angle in check, have those.

The shock relocation brackets, I am going to assume will be needed, Some say they put the shocks outside the frame, does that limit wheel width? Are they all outside the frame rail?

The T/A front adjustable mounts certainly won't be a bad addition. If they're a 'necessity' is user subjective. My 68 & other trucks I'd done survived many years just fine w/o a modified front mount. I do feel they're worth the effort.

As far as notching the frame, I would wait until you dial in the stance & make the decision @ that time. If cutting the frame isn't necessary for travel, there's no sense in doing so because it weakens the frame (even w/the c-notch plating installed). Keep the frame as strong as possible & don't mod it unless it's absolutely required.

As far as the rear drop info.... A 2.5" lowering block is excessive if you aren't running 18-20" wheel diameters. A 15" wheel will have scrub-line contact issues w/a 1.5" block & could be an issue if experiencing a blow-out @ speed on the highway.

[Damien]

The theory behind moving the shocks outboard is that they will have less leverage working against them being closer to the wheel and be more effective. Will moving them limit the tire width and does it matter? It depends on how wide of tires you plan to run. I'm guessing the shocks will not be more than 4" off the side of the frame depending on how you mount them. You will run into the wheel tubs long before you hit the shocks.

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Damien

The theory behind moving the shocks outboard is that they will have less leverage working against them being closer to the wheel and be more effective. Will moving them limit the tire width and does it matter? It depends on how wide of tires you plan to run. I'm guessing the shocks will not be more than 4" off the side of the frame depending on how you mount them. You will run into the wheel tubs long before you hit the shocks.

There will be no wheel tubs, or bed floor other than braces.
This is a what if Nascar or Trans am had a Truck series back in the ealry 70's.
So, tire space is a worry.