obs disc on 63-66 C10 upper arms?

[Kriegs]

Hi, while researching on disc swaps for my 66 c10,i found the faq,among other threads on doing the disc swap. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=367260 i follow most of it but......can i use 3/4-1ton(c20/30) upper arms 73-87(truck)/91(subs) in place of the older 64-66 c10 arms.I would like to upgrade, to the rubber bushings on the shaft? as well as keep the same year control arms instead of having 3 different years of arms,brakes,and steering components?(66 upper,73+ lower,88+ spindle/brake/tierods) as well as getting the arms from the same donor while there.

"Option 2: (done by firstgen)
I used a 1990 chevy front end/parts that had 5 lug 1.25" thick rotors and went to AutoZone and bought new factory 6 lug 1.25" thick rotors and bolted them on. (thanks firstgen)
Basically these are the parts I used:

1968+(73-87 upper/lower?) C20 lower control arms
1988+ 3/4 ton Light Duty 2X4 must have (1.25" rotors) spindles
1988+ 1.25" thick 6 lug rotors
1988+ calipers off same truck
1988+ upper and lower ball joints
1988+ outer tie rods
inner tie rods MOOG part #ES2020RL
1988+ style tie rod coupler"

"Option 2: (done by captainfab)
Spindles from any '88-'98 1/2 ton or light 3/4 ton 2wd pickup or suburban. Rotors from a 7200# GVW 3/4ton from '88-'98 (for some reason there is one part # for '88 & '89 and another for '90-'94. There are only minor differences between the two) I bought the one for the '90-'94 which is Raybestos #56915RGS. The ball joints you need to use are the ones for the '88-'98 spindles. The uppers will fit '63-'87 1/2 ton upper a-arms. The lowers will fit '69-'87 3/4 ton lower a-arms. The '69-'72 are prefered because of the shorter bump stop bracket. The newer ones could be easily modified. For steering you will need to use the '88-'98 outter tierod ends and the adjuster sleeves with ES2020L (ES2020RL?) inner tierod ends to mate up with the drag link. The calipers to use are the '88-'98 ones. Other than some minor things and replacement parts like bearings and seals, etc, I think that's about it."

[SCOTI]

The later (73-87) 3/4 & 1-ton trucks utilize the same HD bushings as the pre-73 1/2 ton trucks. They do not utilize the 'car' style bushing.
Only the 73-87 1/2 ton trucks use the 'car' style bushing. The later '88-up chassis use the rubber bushings in the 1/2 - 1-ton configuraation.

[Warrens69GMC]

With conversion spindles and available 6 lug rotors, makes it easy and you could have it done this week.


IMO you are mixing a lot of parts-then when it come time to replace anything you have to remember where they came from.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

With conversion spindles and available 6 lug rotors, makes it easy and you could have it done this week.


IMO you are mixing a lot of parts-then when it come time to replace anything you have to remember where they came from.

Two camps of thought.

True, aftermarket kits are available but if that source goes away, will another suppliers parts interchange?

Using specific year OE parts can help w/that but the complications may or may-not be worth the hassle vs the one-stop shopping aftermarket approach.

[Kriegs]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The later (73-87) 3/4 & 1-ton trucks utilize the same HD bushings as the pre-73 1/2 ton trucks. They do not utilize the 'car' style bushing.
Only the 73-87 1/2 ton trucks use the 'car' style bushing. The later '88-up chassis use the rubber bushings in the 1/2 - 1-ton configuraation.

Great Thanks SCOTI, I should have researched that better.Thought I read somewhere the 73+ arms,altho 3/4-1 ton,also had the rubber shaft bushing as well. I should have cross referenced it thru a parts comparison.

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

With conversion spindles and available 6 lug rotors, makes it easy and you could have it done this week.


IMO you are mixing a lot of parts-then when it come time to replace anything you have to remember where they came from.

Yep understood, hence why I was asking if the 73+ 3/4-1 ton uppers were any different then the 66 c10 as far as shaft bushing(no rubber bushings like the 1/2T-car style) to keep as much(as budget as possible) same years.I have stock HD 1.25" obs front knuckle assemblies from my drop spindle swap on my OBS(TONS of OBS in the yards near me, literally got my entire dropped front knuckle assemblies from the yard for less then bare new drop spindles ($160+tax/gate fee) so for me,budget wise,at this time using them assemblies+rebuilt 3/4-1 Ton lowers is more eco friendly till Ii can upgrade to tubular/airbag system in the future.I totally get what you're saying Warrens69GMC,I'am hoping to keep it as Memory friendly as possible till budget allows

[Kriegs]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Two camps of thought.

True, aftermarket kits are available but if that source goes away, will another suppliers parts interchange?

Using specific year OE parts can help w/that but the complications may or may-not be worth the hassle vs the one-stop shopping aftermarket approach.

Yep also a huge fear of mine.Iam big on whats yard available,it will tell me what the general populace might be driving and getting Part store replacements for in the near futre(10+ years)

ps: I was a mopar guy...trying to find parts used is hellish(was, they repop alot more now)everyone thinks there abused mopar part is rare and worth Rhodium prices LOL

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Kriegs

Yep also a huge fear of mine.Iam big on whats yard available,it will tell me what the general populace might be driving and getting Part store replacements for in the near futre(10+ years)

ps: I was a mopar guy...trying to find parts used is hellish(was, they repop alot more now)everyone thinks there abused mopar part is rare and worth Rhodium prices LOL

I know of the OBS parts swap to get 6-lug discs..... But I've never seen anyone plot out the geometry when changing the spindles to KNOW things aren't whacky. The Tie Rod height locations on the OBS spindle vs the pre-OBS steering linkage (Pitman Arm>Center Link<Idler) vs OBS steering. What is the impact (if any) on geometry?

More than one guy out there overlooks a possible downside because they're 'saving $' vs. purchasing aftermarket 6-lug rotors on an engineering approved/proven set-up (the OE 67-87 parts). I would research the answers prior to commiting to any specific option.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Too bad you were not closer to me. I have a complete 73 front cross member that I won't be using anymore.

[Kriegs]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Too bad you were not closer to me. I have a complete 73 front cross member that I won't be using anymore.

HAHA thanks, ya too bad...seems its always the case, way too far to make it reasonable to go grab for a project. good news is the local yard just got a 73 c10 in the "premium yard"(can charge more for sought after parts) once it hits the real yard(free for all) ill go scout out whats left. Pretty sure most of the suspension will still be there,at minimum the steering box i hope. If the entire front suspension is there i might grab it all for ease of remembering what year the suspension is

[Captainfab]

To be clear, I have not done the 6 ;lug rotor conversion as outlined in your first post. I was simply reposting from a very old thread that I found. After I posted that, a couple people tried that conversion but were not able to achieve the proper camber. Consequently I made a post stating that I no longer recommend that conversion. It appears that, that conversion would require custom length control arms either uppers or lowers to allow proper camber