55.2-59 Fuel line question

[popeyestruck]

Trying to run my fuel line . Attached are pictures of what I'm working with. My fuel pump has a hose barb . The fuel line I got from inlign has a male fitting . My hose is 5/16. I would like to run a filter between the pump and the fuel line but I cant figure out how to connect the male fitting to a hose barb. What do I need to do? Thanks

[nvrdone]

Looks like that hose barb unscrews from the pump. You may need an adapter fitting to make it fit. What is the hose in the top picture? I don't recommend using rubber hose in a fuel line except at flex points.

[57tailgater]

You will need a fitting like this (just a quick internet search to find a sample). A female inverted flare fitting that corresponds to your tubing and nut size on one end with a 5/16" hose barb on the other end. Your local auto parts store should have one or also try NAPA. Then your can have your flexible hose connection between the tubing and the fuel pump barb fitting.

https://ustoolhub.com/inverted-flare...saAocyEALw_wcB

[leegreen]

It looks like the fitting on fuel line is typical SAE double flare, but it is not really clear
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
Shows some of the different flares.

as 57tailgater says you probably need a SAE inverted flare to hose barb fitting, but pay attention to the inside of the fitting to make sure it has the male cone seat inside it to go inside the flared end of the hard line. The outward appearance of a female plumbing NPT fitting hose barb intended for tapered pipe thread is the same as the SAE female thread inverted flare fitting and the people involved in the warehousing, delivery, stocking and sale of this stuff don't all know the difference so the fittings get mixed up in the drawers. Talking my way behind the counter is my preference.

I'm suspicious of how that hose barb is screwed all the way into the fuel pump in your picture. The pump is usually a NPT fitting. NPT tapered threads usually leave some thread showing when tight. You might have a SAE barb bottomed out in the threads there? The outlet side looks like what I'd expect, a NPT to SAE adapter then SAE line nut

The suck side of the mechanical system is not prone to leaks so people often get away with poor fitting selections. But fuel leaks can ruin your day so take the time to get it right.

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Looks like that hose barb unscrews from the pump. You may need an adapter fitting to make it fit. What is the hose in the top picture? I don't recommend using rubber hose in a fuel line except at flex points.

The hose is for the fuel filter

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by 57tailgater

You will need a fitting like this (just a quick internet search to find a sample). A female inverted flare fitting that corresponds to your tubing and nut size on one end with a 5/16" hose barb on the other end. Your local auto parts store should have one or also try NAPA. Then your can have your flexible hose connection between the tubing and the fuel pump barb fitting.

https://ustoolhub.com/inverted-flare...saAocyEALw_wcB

Thats what I need. Went to advance auto this morning and they couldnt help me

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by leegreen

It looks like the fitting on fuel line is typical SAE double flare, but it is not really clear
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
Shows some of the different flares.

as 57tailgater says you probably need a SAE inverted flare to hose barb fitting, but pay attention to the inside of the fitting to make sure it has the male cone seat inside it to go inside the flared end of the hard line. The outward appearance of a female plumbing NPT fitting hose barb intended for tapered pipe thread is the same as the SAE female thread inverted flare fitting and the people involved in the warehousing, delivery, stocking and sale of this stuff don't all know the difference so the fittings get mixed up in the drawers. Talking my way behind the counter is my preference.

I'm suspicious of how that hose barb is screwed all the way into the fuel pump in your picture. The pump is usually a NPT fitting. NPT tapered threads usually leave some thread showing when tight. You might have a SAE barb bottomed out in the threads there? The outlet side looks like what I'd expect, a NPT to SAE adapter then SAE line nut

The suck side of the mechanical system is not prone to leaks so people often get away with poor fitting selections. But fuel leaks can ruin your day so take the time to get it right.

I have a male side with a double flair

[dsraven]

what does your fuel filter look like?
best option is to attach the fuel filter to the frame with a sturdy clamp of some sort. depending on the filter used there are options that will fit your scenario for that or even just go with a new filter option that has a clamp bracket. si,ilar to this
https://www.corvettecentral.com/68-6...bracket-353130
I like to start the game with a filter that is a good seller at the parts store so you can usually find one if stock on the side of the road parts store.
next, after you get the filter mounted securely, plumb in the fuel line from the frame to the filter, try to use as little rubber hose as you possibly can but ensure to leave enough wiggle room so the filter can be swapped without trouble and even then use a good quality fuel line that has some fibers in it so there is less chance of a problem. fuel injection hose is good quality stuff however it is more money than the cheap fuel line. like this
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...w.ds#store=192
it's a short run though so it shouldn't break the bank. ensure to check the line from the tank so it has either barbs or a bulbed section or spot that will retain the hose and not let it slip off. use a good quality hose clamp, like a fuel injection style clamp on these connections. something that doesn't have holes sliced into the sides of it like the regular gear clamps and it also has a bypassing space where the clamp slides over itself and thet way there is a full circle of coverage under the clamp. like this
https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
next up is the line from the filter to the fuel pump. the fitting in the pump will unscrew and you should be able to source a fitting that will connect to a 5/16 hose. install that and then run a short loop of good quality fuel line, as mentioned above, from the pump to the filter. the short loop is so that when the engine flexes there will be enough hose so the hose won't get strain and tear or cut itself internally on the ends of the fittings and cause a weak spot. the loop also allows some slack for when it comes time to replace the fuel filter.

[popeyestruck]

Thanks

[nvrdone]

I would recommend mounting the filter between the tank and pump. That way the filter will catch any debris before it gets to the pump. Also you might install a filter right before the carb as added protection.

[bowt1ed]

100 micron filter out of tank and 10 micron filter between pump and carb.

Cheers, Jim

[dsraven]

I assumed there would be the filter right out of the tank, then steel line along the frame, then the filter i outlined above, then the pump, steel line to the carb or, if you like to see the fuel up there, a see through glass filter or the old fashioned fuel bowl style. I hate doing that because it's a source of leakage above the hot engine and exhaust.

[mr48chev]

You need a flexible hose between the end of the steel line at the front of the frame and the fuel pump.

On a Steel line like that one in the photo I usually cut the end of the line off, remove the fitting and put it in my brass fitting box and take my double flare tool and do the first stage of a double flare so I have a bulb on the end of the line to hold on the hose and hose clamp. The same as you see on the tube on an inline fuel filter.

I would put a fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. That helps keep stuff out of the pump that can get stuck in the valves of the pump. I've done that on everything that I have put together since 1981 when i got stuck at the top of the Contental divide on 90 in Montana with sand in the pump.

55/59 shows to have a flex hose between the seat tank and the fuel line.

[dsraven]

ok, I guess the problem you are having is that the steel line from the fuel tank has a double flare on it and that doesn't accept a hose, like you want it to, so you can have a flexible connection from the frame to the fuel pump. in this space you would like to install a fuel filter prior to the fuel pump. the fuel pump inlet side of things has a hose barb for a hose connection, which would support this hose connection, but the frame side doesn't. is this correct?
if this is correct, you could simly push the flared fitting nut back on the steel line so it is out of the way, slip your rubber fuel line over the end of the steel line far enough for clamps, then clamp it on there with some good quality hose clamps. the bump in the steel line that was made for the flare fitting will become the bump required to retain the hose. don't clamp the rubber hose over top of the bump. clamp the rubber hose behind that using 2 clamps spaced slightly apart. this is the suction side of the pump so it will only have atmospheric pressure applied at a maximum. after that connection is complete mount your fuel filter as described in a previous post. I say mount it because if you simply hang the filter it becomes a weight hanging on the rubber hose and this can cause strain from the weight and also the vibration of the hose with the weight against the metal of the fuel pump fitting and the steel line fitting. this, age and temperature highs and lows usually causes the hose to crack at those strain points and then it leaks at the most inopportune time. granted, there are lots of vehicles driving around with a big old fuel fikter dangling on a rubber hose between the frame and the engine. never had a problem they say. as a mechanic i can tell you they have been lucky or else they have a maintenence program where they actually check and change the rubber line often enough so it hasn't had time to deteriorate enough to cause a problem

[dsraven]

the problem with adding another fitting to the steel line so it accepts a rubber hose connection is that usually that fitting is heavy and that, again, adds weight. if you can find a fitting like someone posted that is short and light and also has a through bore large enough to flow the amount required to supply adequate fuel to the engine then thats a possibility as well. still, I recmmend to mount the fuel filter to the frame but, it's your truck so you gotta do what you want with it.

[dsraven]

if you look at the fuel line exitting the fuel pump you will see the size of line you need to supply the fuel pump. the outlet side currently looks larger than the barbed fitting on the inlet. is that how the pump came or is that something that was put together? usually a pump has a larger inlet size than the outlet size. personally I would use a different style of fitting on the pump inlet because the brass fittings with that flared style connection usually have a smaller through bore size, meaning, if you look at the inside of the fitting the hole in the middle is actually fairly small so the amount of flow through the fitting is reduced. flared fittings are usually made for a tube, like the one on the frame, and the actual connection seal is made in the contact of the flared to the seat on the connecting fitting it is screwed together with. that part is larger than the steel line so the through bore is the same size as the inside bore of the steel line.
you could try an auto transmission shop and aks if they have any adapter fittings for your size of steel line to adapt to a hose. something like this, which is made from a steel line and has the bulb for hose connection
https://www.agscompany.com/products/...to-rubber-hose

[dsraven]

a hydraulic shop or a hose builder shop is also a great place to look for fittings/ you could have a custom hose built to connect to the fuel pump, where the barbed fitting is located, and then connect to the flared fitting on the steel line at the frame. then install the fuel filter at the outlet of the fuel tank where it is easier to change anyway and you can also use a drain pan on the floor to catch the drips. a fuel shut off on the tank is a great idea here as you can simply shut the supply off, remove the filter and not have an open hose draining the tank while you quickly try to get the old filter off the hose and a new filter installed. I guess you could also install a spin on fuel filter here if you really want overkill. lol.
another thing to remember is that the original fuel tank was in the cab, so it drained automatically to the fuel pump. if you have installed a fuel tank on the frame somewhere then that auto supply is not so good after the tank has drained down some so the level of the fuel in the tank where the pick up tube is located is about the same level, or lower than, the fuel pump inlet. the fuel pump then needs to draw the fuel up from the tank. then factor in when the truck goes up an incline and it gets worse (right when the engine usually requires more fuel). basically the pump in this situation needs to create a negative pressure and atmosheric pressure acting on the fuel in the tank pushes the fuel out to the fuel pump. I know, that sounds like baloney but thats how it works. anyway, that is why the inlet side of the pump is usually larger sized tubing or hose compared to the outlet side. just something to keep in mind with the hose and fittings.
keep us posted with your results or if you have questions and also what your plans are for the connection. a few pics wouldn't hurt either. nice clean build you have going there by the looks of the pics you have shown.

[popeyestruck]

ok, I guess the problem you are having is that the steel line from the fuel tank has a double flare on it and that doesn't accept a hose, like you want it to, so you can have a flexible connection from the frame to the fuel pump. in this space you would like to install a fuel filter prior to the fuel pump. the fuel pump inlet side of things has a hose barb for a hose connection, which would support this hose connection, but the frame side doesn't. is this correct? Yes this is correct. I ordered an inverted flare female adaptor like someone suggested. If that doesnt work I'll try pushing the flare fitting back and clamping . That seems like an easy fix. Working on the exhaust today while I wait for the inverted flair to get here. Anyone have a photo of a stock single exhaust routing? I'm confused where everything goes

[dsraven]

there are diagrams in the assembly manual, section 8, sheet 12, that show the factory routing and clamping/hanger locations for all the models. the factory assembly manual is a free download from the trifive site. sometimes walker exhaust. or some others online, will show the routing as well so they can show each part and how it fits together. possibly rockauto has that diagram in their system?

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

there are diagrams in the assembly manual, section 8, sheet 12, that show the factory routing and clamping/hanger locations for all the models. the factory assembly manual is a free download from the trifive site. sometimes walker exhaust. or some others online, will show the routing as well so they can show each part and how it fits together. possibly rockauto has that diagram in their system?

OK I have the assembly manual but its not a real good image. I'll try walker and rock auto. Thanks

[mr48chev]

The assembly manual shows the fuel line on the six as being hardlined to the pump.

I don't care for that idea though as you still have to deal with engine vibration and movement.


Note that the fuel line should end at the pump or just to the rear of the pump
and your fuel line is at least a foot too long.


TF assembly manual link. https://www.trifive.com/d1/55-59Assy.pdf If you have a tf and don't have a paper copy of the manual you need the link.

[dsraven]

the assembly manual can be a little hard to read from the net, for sure, but if you are not doing a numbers matching truck then a little discrepancy on the mounting of things won't matter much and a newer set of rubber insulated hangers might be better anyway. the manual shows where the hangers should be so if you string out the pipes accordingly you should be able to figure it out.
you can do this, look what you have done already. great job!
I agree with the fuel line thing, gotta have some flex in the line from frame to pump. sounds like when the adapter shows it will be a simple job. if the tub is too long make a circle loop in it someplace and tie that up so it doesn't vibrate and crack somewhere.

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the assembly manual can be a little hard to read from the net, for sure, but if you are not doing a numbers matching truck then a little discrepancy on the mounting of things won't matter much and a newer set of rubber insulated hangers might be better anyway. the manual shows where the hangers should be so if you string out the pipes accordingly you should be able to figure it out.
you can do this, look what you have done already. great job!
I agree with the fuel line thing, gotta have some flex in the line from frame to pump. sounds like when the adapter shows it will be a simple job. if the tub is too long make a circle loop in it someplace and tie that up so it doesn't vibrate and crack somewhere.

The exhaust came with 4 hangers and I only have 2 spots I can use them so I was confused and thought I wasnt doing something right. The manual shows a 1 piece exhaust and mine ios 4 pc for shipping . This throws off the hangers

[leegreen]

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by popeyestruck

The exhaust came with 4 hangers and I only have 2 spots I can use them so I was confused and thought I wasnt doing something right. The manual shows a 1 piece exhaust and mine ios 4 pc for shipping . This throws off the hangers

It shouldn't throw off the placement of the hangers at all. It just adds an extra clamp or a weld at the spot where the made to ship easly pipes go together.

Unless you are planning on showing the truck in judged Chevy truck shows the number of hangers and location doesn't mean a lot exceop tou need the pipe securely mounted with hangers that have enough give to allow it a bit of flex and wiggle room going down the road.