55.2-59 Altman latches with power locks and windows

[8man]

Has anyone used power locks with Altman latches on these trucks? If so, what power lock did you use?

I am also looking at Classic Truck Glass' electric one-piece side windows, has anyone used them? If so, what do you think about them?

Thanks.

[mr48chev]

I intend to use power locks on my 48 with Altman latches plus power windows I figured that I would ask the folks who make Altman what they suggest for door lock kits.

I've got a buddy with a full custom car with shaved door handles and he uses his remote to run the window down and reach in and open the door with the inside handle. He has the vent wings and if you know what you are doing it is fairly simple to get them open and reach in if you have to.

I've never been around the 1 piece windows for TF trucks and only know what little I have read on them.

[8man]

Mr48, I used the Altman latches with electric door locks on my 48 and they work. However, I used the contacts in the bottom of the door to conduct the electricity to the lock, and you can pull the inside handle back, and the latch will try to open, but the electric locking motor will hold the Altman locked. Then you have to be able to get outside and push the door closed to actually unlock it. That is the only problem I've had on the 48. I didn't use power windows.

[mr48chev]

It sounds like it is far more of an issue with that contact set up than an issue with the Altman latches or the actuators for the door locks.

Meaning that when you work the handle on the inside you release the first click of the latch and loose electrical contact on those cute little contacts down on the door jamb. Then there is no complete circuit to release the lock. Going out and around to push the door in completes the contact and lets you work the solenoid.

I've never had a set of those contacts in my hand to examine them but had always assumed (and assume will get you in trouble every time) that one side had springs behind the contacts to allow them to make contact and still close the door without putting undue pressure on them.

The primary gripe that I have heard from guys that have those contact setups is that things in the door don't work when the door is open. Speaker doesn't play or they can't roll the electric window up and down. The one guy that I actually somewhat know that has them told me that is what he doesn't like about them, he has to get back in the truck and close the door to roll the window up.

The main reason I figure on going to electric windows is that when I stretch the doors stock regulators most likely going to work well with a window that is 9-1/4 inches longer and out of balance on stock regulators.

[8man]

Mr48, you nailed the issue with the contacts.

On the 55 I'm not going to use them, so I think the Altman's will work fine with continuous power to the power door lock.

I am really more concerned about the window. I have heard that the window is extremely tight and I'm concerned about the power unit on the lift being able to handle the tightness. That's why I was hoping someone had used the windows I listed, as I've heard they fit really nice, no air noise and no rattle. The guy just didn't use power and I'm not sure.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

It sounds like it is far more of an issue with that contact set up than an issue with the Altman latches or the actuators for the door locks.

Meaning that when you work the handle on the inside you release the first click of the latch and loose electrical contact on those cute little contacts down on the door jamb. Then there is no complete circuit to release the lock. Going out and around to push the door in completes the contact and lets you work the solenoid.

I've never had a set of those contacts in my hand to examine them but had always assumed (and assume will get you in trouble every time) that one side had springs behind the contacts to allow them to make contact and still close the door without putting undue pressure on them.

The primary gripe that I have heard from guys that have those contact setups is that things in the door don't work when the door is open. Speaker doesn't play or they can't roll the electric window up and down. The one guy that I actually somewhat know that has them told me that is what he doesn't like about them, he has to get back in the truck and close the door to roll the window up.

The main reason I figure on going to electric windows is that when I stretch the doors stock regulators most likely going to work well with a window that is 9-1/4 inches longer and out of balance on stock regulators.

The contact thing never crossed my mind. I'm not to that point yet but was thinking about the contacts. I was more concerned with the electrical connection reliability. Thanks for pointing out about the open door thing. One less thing to think about. I wouldn't like that at all.

[8man]

https://www.trifive.com/threads/altm...-80551&slide=7

I have been looking at this site for a way to fix the problem with the 48 locks. I don't think it's a power problem, so much as it is that my connection for the lock/unlock function does not completely LOCK the door. That is why it partially opens when locked, causing the problems.

I think with the right locking "bends" it'll be fine. Now to have the time to work on it.

[mr48chev]

Now I am confused. Are the latches just not closing all the way? or do they only pop open to thefirst stage/ click or what ever one wants to call it but won't open by working the handle again and the "lock" won't release if you push the button on the inside?

[8man]

When the lock is activated and then you try to open the door before hitting the unlock button, the latch will click one time, and will not unlock or open. If you hit unlock every thing works fine.

I found an old Tri Five post by a guy who talked about the latch needing to lock all the way or it would do that. It appears the problem is my power lock motor is not fully locking the latch.

I will know more once I get home and can tear into the 48.