Door Jamb Switch Question

[Stocker]

Both of my door jamb switches (for the dome light) are floating loosely in their holes, and can't be tightened. Is there supposed to be a back-up nut inside the kick panel?

[A1971Blazer]

there's not a nut in there, nor is there an easy way to get one in there short of making a large hole in the kick panel.
put a little epoxy glue on it and call it good?

[Stocker]

Thanks for the reply. Since the switch relies on being grounded, I'll try using adhesive from a defroster grid repair kit. It's electrically conductive.

[RustyPile]

If push comes to shove, there's 2 methods that offer a substantial and permanent repair..
(1) Enlarge the hole and weld a patch over it. Drill and tap a new hole. Metal finish and paint as you deem necessary.

(2) Obtain a nut of the proper size and thread pitch.. Thin it down so that you have only about 2 - 2 1/2 threads. Enlarge the hole, insert the nut and spot weld a couple places.. Metal finish and paint as you deem necessary.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

If push comes to shove, there's 2 methods that offer a substantial and permanent repair..
(1) Enlarge the hole and weld a patch over it. Drill and tap a new hole. Metal finish and paint as you deem necessary.

(2) Obtain a nut of the proper size and thread pitch.. Thin it down so that you have only about 2 - 2 1/2 threads. Enlarge the hole, insert the nut and spot weld a couple places.. Metal finish and paint as you deem necessary.

I'll keep that in mind in case my current "fix" fails. No welder though, so I'd have to farm it out. And the truck was recently painted so.......

My aftermarket switches run out of thread just before bottoming out, so that's where the loose fit is coming from. I ended up packing a bit of .9mm solder around the shoulder of the switch to get a snug fit, then applied a little conductive glue from the defroster repair kit. Can't say how long it will last, but it's good for now.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Stocker

I'll keep that in mind in case my current "fix" fails. No welder though, so I'd have to farm it out. And the truck was recently painted so.......

My aftermarket switches run out of thread just before bottoming out, so that's where the loose fit is coming from. I ended up packing a bit of .9mm solder around the shoulder of the switch to get a snug fit, then applied a little conductive glue from the defroster repair kit. Can't say how long it will last, but it's good for now.

"run out of threads?" Curious situation... My truck never had courtesy lights and the only control for the dome light is on the headlight switch.. A while back, I installed a courtesy light kit from Classic Industries.. I dropped the wire in the B pillar from just above the top hinge mount. After I drilled and tapped the holes for the switches, I bent a hook in the end of a piece of piano wire, stuck it through the switch hole and hooked the switch wire. Pulled it through, installed the bullet connectors, plugged in the switch and threaded it into the hole.. My switches didn't "run out of threads".. Maybe you just need different switches..

https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...rts/30703.html

[Stocker]

Yeah, it seemed odd to me too. Those switches were just one thing (of several) where the body shop dropped the ball. The driver's side had a different type switch and the passenger's side had no switch at all, just the wire hanging inside the kick panel. The switches were both good when I left the truck with them, but apparently they were removed when the truck was painted. The new switches they gave me came from LMC. They probably would have worked okay if I would have placed a washer over the threads up to the hex shoulder.

[RustyPile]

I've been involved with automobiles in various ways for over 60 years.. I've developed the opinion that body shops in general engage in all sorts of shortcuts. The results is always crappy work and your experience just echoes that opinion.. I don't do restorations for hire, never have.. But I have restored numerous old cars, including a 1957 Chevy Nomad when I was in my 20s.. I take pride in my work and plan each project, be it small or large, and approach it so that when I'm finished, it stays finished.

If you're open to suggestions and don't want to disturb that new paint, I suggest you search out some switches like the ones I used.. If that fails, then you can put stainless flat washers under the hex part of the switch.. Just be careful doing this.. You don't want anything but the switch button making contact with the door when you close it.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

If you're open to suggestions and don't want to disturb that new paint, I suggest you search out some switches like the ones I used.. If that fails, then you can put stainless flat washers under the hex part of the switch.. Just be careful doing this.. You don't want anything but the switch button making contact with the door when you close it.

Good info, thanks. I have bought several items from Classic Industries and have their catalog. If my current setup fails, I'll get a pair of those. And if needed, the local Ace store has a great selection of stainless hardware.

[1970cstblazer]

I would try 4891633 or 14014578 OEM GM Delco switches. Never had good luck with the aftermarket door jam pin switches.

[Stocker]

Definitely gonna save this page for future reference. Thanks, guys.

[LNP]

I'm not sure how the stock ones came in the trucks my truck is 69 so no door jam switch. But after many many years wrenchin on garages through out my life I know some switches came from the factory with a nylon washer that went behind the hex. I think it was to keep the socket from scratchin the paint but not sure on that. Anyway you can look at a switch with the nylon washer by Googling AC Delco GM 15693389. Another good repair I didnt see mention is a rivet nut. They install like a pop rivet. If you dont have the rivet nut instalation tool just use a bolt. You can get rivet nuts in steel and aluminum. I have used them for lots of different jobs they work great.

[chevmn]

I ended up using rivnuts on mine. Ordered a set of various sizes, and they come in handy for other things.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1468TBW...roduct_details