Advise on Pulling an Engine

[Kenneth]

So I'm pulling my 305 this weekend. I'm renting a engine hoist and getting a couple of friends to help, but known of us have ever done this. So I'm asking for any little advise that the shop manual won't mention. I've pretty much detached everything connected to the engine and transmission, although the transmission coolant lines are still stuck on via a hard to get to bracket. Anything I should do to make this procedure as easy as possible?
Thanks in advance.
Kenneth

[PHOENIX]

Have you taken the hood off?
Take it slow when pulling it out and watch for things you may have missed.
Label everything you take off and put into bags.
Mark hoses and wires with masking tape and set aside.
Be as detailed in descriptions as possible when marking things.
Take it slow and take your time, you dont want to damage anything.
Its easier then you probably think, just takes time, mostly prep to take it out.

[Kenneth]

actually, I've already disconnected most things, labeled stuff and put them into boxes. All the bolts and nuts are in labeled zip-lock bags. But no I haven't removed the hood yet b/c I'm doing this in my driveway and don't have garage space. I'll do that sat. morning and then start attaching the engine hoist and removing mounting bolts, etc.
yes, slow, very slow indeed.

[greg0380]

As mentioned above, take it slow! And don't sweat it, a couple of weeks ago I pulled an engine for the first time. Do it once and you'll see it's not so bad.

Good idea to remove, distributor, and radiator sometimes helps. Good luck

[bigblock73]

Eddie hit the nail on the head pretty much.

If you haven't already, disconnect the trans linkage, speedo cable, drain and remove the radiator (you will hit it), remove the fan and all engine accessories, and don't forget to unbolt the trans from the crossmember and remove the driveshaft. Also, look for any wiring that may still be attached, and dont forget about those trans lines.

Also, keep some empty buckets and pans handy, once the engine comes out you will spill antifreeze, especially if you removed the exhaust manifolds.

Label everything and keep your garage shop clean and free of clutter...cause this will make a mess once you start tearing things apart.

Good luck

[old Rusty C10]

get kitty littler or oil absorb to sop up all the stuff you spill. get a big bar to pry with it helps . when you remove the hood mark it on either side of the hinges so you can line it up easy again. make sure you secure the power steering pump tp the side with a thin wire as it will fall if you dont ( if you just disconnected the pump from the motor and left the lines etc in there) remove distributor from motor so you dont damage it and no beer til afterwards!!

[Low87on20s]

Originally posted by old Rusty C10
.....and no beer til afterwards!!

That's no fun...

[Kenneth]

Okay, that all sounds good, and i"ve removed most things people have said, but not the distributer and I'll be sure to do that after I remove the hood. I'm assuming it's fairly straightforward to use an engine hoist. I'm not exactly clear as to where to attach it to the engine or how it works etc. hopefully it comes to me in a vision.
and this no beer until afterwards thing... that might be hard but I figure if I start at 8 am I won't be thirsty... yet.

[bigblock73]

Use some bolts and bolt the chains on the hoist to the corner of the heads (front and back) where the exhaust manifolds bolted to...there also might be some bolt provisions on the front of the block as well. You can also buy/rent an engine lifting plate, that bolts in place of the carb and will allow you to pull it that way too.

[Slonaker]

If you are pulling the trans with it, make sure you block the wheels very well. A lot of people forget that the "park" position no longer keeps it from moving when you disconnect the driveshaft.

I always block the wheels (both sides front and back) any time I work on the transmission or driveshaft, or any time I jack it up.

You don't have to pull the hood to pull the distributor. It will come out with the hood in place.

Slonaker

[78chevstepside]

The hardest part is taking the hood off. 2 to 3 people are needed to do this. Taking the engine out is real simple. Putting back is a little harder. I can take the engine out my 78 in about 2 hours all by myself. The current motor in my 78 has been in and out 3 times( dont ask its a long story) . I have had alot of practice. I bought this truck in 1980. 5 motors # 3 6 bangers # 2 sbc 8 times I have pulled a motor in and out in this truck. You could say I learn the hard way. Presistants pays off in the end.

[78chevstepside]

Great care should be used when lifting a motor out with a lifting device that bolts on to a intake manifold( carb). especially if its alunumuimn(intake). those threads will strip very easily. Make sure you tighten them evenly. I have stretched mine out a little pulling a motor out.

[Kenneth]

Thanks for the pick and tips!
The distributer on my 76's elky is set way back almost where the hood meets the front windshield so I figure it's just easier to remove it once the hood is out.

Yeah, I'll talk with the place I'm renting the engine hoist from and see what they have as far as lifting plates go, etc. And I'll be wary of the aluminum intake manifold.

yeah, i plan on pulling the tranny with the engine b/c it's leaking like a wet diaper and reckon the seals need replacing. I've already disconnected the propellar shaft and found the car rolls really well , but the e-brake works. I'll probably put the car on jack-stands just incase I have to get underneath it, which I will to remove the bolt attaching the transmission to the crossmember.


Funny story... kind of. I've had my car on 4 jack stands with the wheels off for about 3 months in my driveway. now my neighbors warned me that some neighbors don't like tthe looks of a car like that but I didn't think about it too much b/c it was on my property (and I don't live in a posh neighborhood). Well, last week I got a police sticker tagged on my Elky saying that it was considered a junk car, making it a hazard which invites vandalism, and lowers property value, hence public ordinance prohibits keeping vehicles in such a state. I have ten day, well 5 now, to get it back on the up and up otherwise they do something (not sure how they'd tow a car on 4 jackstands but I don't want to find out). I called the police guy responsible for the sticker and he just told me to put the wheels back on and take it off the jack stands and it will be fine. So no big deal, but damn, life in the "burbs" is full of surprises.

[old Rusty C10]

Originally posted by Kenneth
Thanks for the pick and tips!

Funny story... kind of. I've had my car on 4 jack stands with the wheels off for about 3 months in my driveway. now my neighbors warned me that some neighbors don't like tthe looks of a car like that but I didn't think about it too much b/c it was on my property (and I don't live in a posh neighborhood). Well, last week I got a police sticker tagged on my Elky saying that it was considered a junk car, making it a hazard which invites vandalism, and lowers property value, hence public ordinance prohibits keeping vehicles in such a state. I have ten day, well 5 now, to get it back on the up and up otherwise they do something (not sure how they'd tow a car on 4 jackstands but I don't want to find out). I called the police guy responsible for the sticker and he just told me to put the wheels back on and take it off the jack stands and it will be fine. So no big deal, but damn, life in the "burbs" is full of surprises.

yeah when ya finally live in an area where you can have room and all to work on a car the neighbors have hissy fits. do like i did with my crackhead neighbor.. every time they fart take a picture then complain on them youll find they stop calling when the shoe is on the other foot. Ya know if theres constant fighting drug sales wild parties late at night or hotrodding i can see complaining but other than that live and let live

[86SILVERADO]

You should either drain the tranny first or put a pan under the tailshaft as you lower it with the jack that will need to be under it in order for you to have dropped the x-member. Believe it or not I think it is easier and less messy to just drain it through the tailshaft as you raise the motor/tranny w/the engine hoist. You may have to scoot the pan forward once as you are pulling the whole shebang forward. Once you are ready to pull, the procedure I use is knock out the two through-bolts in the mounts (this is while it is hooked up to the hoist with the slightest upwards pressure to take the weight off of the bolts, if you do it right you should be able to just pull them out by hand, if not you may have to use a 3/8 extension or another bolt to tap them out. Once the bolts are out raise the motor out of the cradle and then go underneath and lower the tranny tailshaft with the jack a bit more. Raise motor more, lower tranny more. You should then be clear and ready to raise it all the way out. Make sure the hoist is LEVEL side to side. You will be suprised how high you will have to raise the whole deal in order to get it out especially with the tranny attached.

[Blue Beard]

Don't forget to tie the driveline up (unless it is out) that way it won't drop when the tranny comes away......

If you have a digital camera, it wouldn't hurt to take pics, just to help remind you of things.

Point also, if someone else is helping you be sure to know if they do things disconnecting so you'll know ...........

[rodkeyc]

careful it doesnt float back into your windshield once you clear it up and over your firewall. Many a windshield lost.

[Grim Reaper]

Originally posted by Kenneth
actually, I've already disconnected most things, labeled stuff and put them into boxes. All the bolts and nuts are in labeled zip-lock bags. But no I haven't removed the hood yet b/c I'm doing this in my driveway and don't have garage space. I'll do that sat. morning and then start attaching the engine hoist and removing mounting bolts, etc.
yes, slow, very slow indeed.

Bet you missed the ground strap on the back side of the passenger head....9/16 wrench is the one your looking for.

Take your time....WATCH the wires. I like to leave the harness on the engine. If you look at the big bulkhead connector under the brake booster there is a bolt in the middle 7/16's nut drive rings a bell. That will let you unblug the whole engine and deal with it on the stand.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally posted by Grim Reaper
Bet you missed the ground strap on the back side of the passenger head....9/16 wrench is the one your looking for.

When I pulled my motor, I didn't have a ground strap...

[bluec10]

1. Drain all the fluids and clean up the engine as much as you can before you pull it.

2. For goodness sake (and I speak from experience) make sure that you are working on a flat surface and that all the wheels are blocked. ONLY use axel stands and make sure they're in good condition.

3. Label the hoses and wires - take tons of pictures with the air cleaner off.

4. I find that having a skinny brother-in-law handy can be quite helpful (especially for those transmission bolts) even if he'd rather read a book than get greasy. You may have access to similar equipment.