Project Vitamin C-10

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

so how exactly are you going to french those 59 cad lights in... ?
I am wondering because if you do them the way I think, there might be a way to hide the fuel filler behind one of them.....
and if nobody else posts before me I will get you a pic of the rad support at daybreak....

If I do the lights, I was going to get a piece of 3 1/2" exhaust pipe and sink it in where the OE light is now but more to the side. So the pipe would be tapered into the side of the bed a little. The problem I see is the light is 6" long. I need access to the back side of it. To do so I will have to make the rear bedside post deeper with a accesss panel. To access the TL mount and wiring. It's still in the thinking stages. I did some quick measurements and that is what I see so far.

As far as the headlight mount panel pix, I'd like to have one with it assembled to the radiator support for referrence. Especially the lower center attachment. I know it is simple, but I thought someone might have a pic handy. Don't go to any trouble getting one. I can probably go to LMC and get a decent pic. I tried from work today but I was blocked. Scratch the LMC idea I just chcked it out and they didn't have a good IPB

Originally Posted by Barebones66

this what your looking for ?

I think I got that one.

A little got done tonight. I was able to repair the area I messed up. BTW it was all done above the floor support so the repair is not noticeable from underneath.



Also transfered the washer over. Still have to do the otherside.



The battery box was test fitted. Need to do a little manipulaton there as well. Two holes don't line up.

[Barebones66]

I think I got that one.


Note to self : Never post when it's past your bedtime

[jonzcustomshop]

that taillight idea is what I was thinking that you were thinking....
So here is the idea: make the inside bed panel as wide as the stake post. maybe all the way to the wheel tub, for asthetics.
then run your fuel filler right up to the back of the taillight, set the light up so that it pulls out from the rear of the truck so that you can acces the fuel filler.
I just built one like this for my dads 55 chev car. there is also a guy on here building a blazer that did one similar to this idea...

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

that taillight idea is what I was thinking that you were thinking....
So here is the idea: make the inside bed panel as wide as the stake post. maybe all the way to the wheel tub, for asthetics.
then run your fuel filler right up to the back of the taillight, set the light up so that it pulls out from the rear of the truck so that you can acces the fuel filler.
I just built one like this for my dads 55 chev car. there is also a guy on here building a blazer that did one similar to this idea...

Thanks Jon. I'm trying to viualize this.

set the light up so that it pulls out from the rear of the truck so that you can acces the fuel filler.

Do you have any more info on this or pix. I can't get this mental pic in my head.

BTW note to self get more rest when sick. It came back with a vengance this morning.

[joe231]

yeah man, get some rest!!
we need you in tip-top shape!!

[Alan's Classic]

Thought I would try to get something small done before I get some rest. I'm trying to change the signal switch on the column. I really haven't had with the columns lately. I'm trying to get the piece below the switch out. Anyone been there and done that? The switches are different in only one way that I can see. The one that needs to be changed has the shift indicator light. I can live without it (I think). I tried to find some numbers on the old switch so I can get a new one, but I need to figure out how to get that piece out so I can get the wire connector down thru the column. I got the old one out because someone cut the plug off.

Exploded parts view



The only difference I see is circled. It's the light socket for the indicator.



This is the piece I need out

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thought I would try to get something small done before I get some rest. I'm trying to change the signal switch on the column. I really haven't had with the columns lately. I'm trying to get the piece below the switch out. Anyone been there and done that? The switches are different in only one way that I can see. The one that needs to be changed has the shift indicator light. I can live without it (I think). I tried to find some numbers on the old switch so I can get a new one, but I need to figure out how to get that piece out so I can get the wire connector down thru the column. I got the old one out because someone cut the plug off.

Exploded parts view


The only difference I see is circled. It's the light socket for the indicator.


This is the piece I need out

your just trying to get the wire through???
what plug is it?
you should be able to pop the terminals out of the plug, just be sure to write what wire went where, maybe take some pics too

[jonzcustomshop]

K here are a couple of shots...
your rad support should have three nuts welded to the inside of the chanel . they bolt in from underneth the truck.(pic 1)

I traced out the box idea I was talking about (pic 2)

I brought the short stuff blazer thread btt, post # 35 has the gas door idea...

[FreeRideYZ250]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

K here are a couple of shots...
your rad support should have three nuts welded to the inside of the chanel . they bolt in from underneth the truck.(pic 1)

I traced out the box idea I was talking about (pic 2)

I brought the short stuff blazer thread btt, post # 35 has the gas door idea...

My fuel filler is in a the same location. I have a tank out of a 55-57 chevy car, and the filler is out of a 56 I believe. We cut and welded it, so it came up in between the outer bed skirt and the inner bed skirt. I have a 6" x 6" square cut out there now, however on the other bed sides I have I will weld in a square fuel fill door.

Will post pictures for anyone, just say I.

[joe231]

I

[FreeRideYZ250]

I'll get some this afternoon.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

K here are a couple of shots...
your rad support should have three nuts welded to the inside of the chanel . they bolt in from underneth the truck.(pic 1)

I traced out the box idea I was talking about (pic 2)

I brought the short stuff blazer thread btt, post # 35 has the gas door idea...

Thanks Jon, do you have a pic of the materials you bought at Ace to build the hide-a-way tail light that you talked about in the "Short stuff Blazer thread".

Originally Posted by joe231

your just trying to get the wire through???
what plug is it?
you should be able to pop the terminals out of the plug, just be sure to write what wire went where, maybe take some pics too

Boy you can tell I ain't right in the head (more than usual) since I've been beat down. I can't believe I didn't think of that. I've done that 100's of times at work. I need to get a replacement switch. The one I was going to use is cracked where the turn signal lever screws into. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Originally Posted by FreeRideYZ250

My fuel filler is in a the same location. I have a tank out of a 55-57 chevy car, and the filler is out of a 56 I believe. We cut and welded it, so it came up in between the outer bed skirt and the inner bed skirt. I have a 6" x 6" square cut out there now, however on the other bed sides I have I will weld in a square fuel fill door.

Will post pictures for anyone, just say I.

I.............I'm always open to new ideas.

Originally Posted by joe231

I

[TimE]

I

[FreeRideYZ250]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Jon, do you have a pic of the materials you bought at Ace to build the hide-a-way tail light that you talked about in the "Short stuff Blazer thread".



Boy you can tell I ain't right in the head (more than usual) since I've been beat down. I can't believe I didn't think of that. I've done that 100's of times at work. I need to get a replacement switch. The one I was going to use is cracked where the turn signal lever screws into. Thanks for the enlightenment.



I.............I'm always open to new ideas.

I apologize guys. I got consumed with a garage cleaning project over the weekend. If I wasn't moving junk in or out of the garage, I was sleeping. Will shoot some photos asap.

[tommys66]

Hey allan, when you do your final fit on the front clip what fender bolts are you going to use? I am a long ways away from fitting, but have been pondering what to use, paint or ss or chrome. One thing I thought might work (never tried) use a thin neoprene washer on the fender bolts to keep from dammaging the paint when tightened.

[bosephus]

Well Alan,you could add one more video to that for a grand total of 5 'cause I would buy one!Very nice work man

[jonzcustomshop]

I will get a pic of the setup..
my dads bodyman had already built a housing to house the fuel filler behind the taillight, all I did was buy a steel rod, and a steel tube from ace, the rod fit perfect inside the tube, I cut the tube to 9 inches, and the rod is 15 inches, then I welded a lugnut to the end (for a stopper). It all fits quite snug, the rod and tube are metal on metal, but I suppose that you could surround the exposed part (when the door is closed) with a bigger tube, and the put a grease zerk on it , and fill it up with grease, I will do that with my dads if there is an issue of surface rust binding up the slide... but we have almost no humidity up here, so that won't be too much of a problem....

I will have to get you some pics of the mechanism.. right now it is installed on his car at his house, so it might be over the week end.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I will get a pic of the setup..
my dads bodyman had already built a housing to house the fuel filler behind the taillight, all I did was buy a steel rod, and a steel tube from ace, the rod fit perfect inside the tube, I cut the tube to 9 inches, and the rod is 15 inches, then I welded a lugnut to the end (for a stopper). It all fits quite snug, the rod and tube are metal on metal, but I suppose that you could surround the exposed part (when the door is closed) with a bigger tube, and the put a grease zerk on it , and fill it up with grease, I will do that with my dads if there is an issue of surface rust binding up the slide... but we have almost no humidity up here, so that won't be too much of a problem....

I will have to get you some pics of the mechanism.. right now it is installed on his car at his house, so it might be over the week end.

Thanks Jon, looking forward to the pix

We are really slow at work. It's getting pretty scary. It's slowest it's been in 5 years. Got a little done today while at work. Repaired a few areas on the headlight mount panel. For the most part it was in really good shape.



And primed

[joe231]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Boy you can tell I ain't right in the head (more than usual) since I've been beat down. I can't believe I didn't think of that. I've done that 100's of times at work. I need to get a replacement switch. The one I was going to use is cracked where the turn signal lever screws into. Thanks for the enlightenment.

yeah, i was looking at your post and was like

thought I was missing something

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Jon, looking forward to the pix

We are really slow at work. It's getting pretty scary. It's slowest it's been in 5 years. Got a little done today while at work. Repaired a few areas on the headlight mount panel. For the most part it was in really good shape.


And primed

Damn man, that thing looks so SLICK!!!
nice work

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Alan,

I was just going on here to see how you moved that mounting hole on the other side. Mine looks like it is a 1/2" off. Didn't you have to do that, or am I dreaming?

Bob

Bob, I think i understand your question. Yes I ended up moving both sides about 1/2". I caught the drivers side while I was working on it. The passenger side which was the first one I did, I didn't catch it until I sat the cab on. The gap in the pic looks to be bigger than 1/2" but it's not. I cut a piece out around the hole as you can see and spun the piece around until I got the best alignment. Then cut out the piece it overlapped and moved the piece I cut out to the other side to fill in the void. It worked out really well.

Originally Posted by joe231

yeah, i was looking at your post and was like

thought I was missing something

Damn man, that thing looks so SLICK!!!
nice work

I'm telling you what, I felt horrible. My mind couldn't focus. Feel 70% better now. Thanks for the compliment.

I priced a 1979 G1500 Van turn signal swith assy from Auto zone $79.95. They actually had a picture of it in the computer and looked to be the same. I expected about $20. So I had to pass. I called Chevy and my cost was $85. Going to reconsider my options.

[Strodder]

What's the hammer for ?? I don't think you should use it to get the T-Signal switch out.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

What's the hammer for ?? I don't think you should use it to get the T-Signal switch out.

It's a special tool.

[kizer]

In my garage I have a 10lb sledge I call the calibrator. Actually it might weigh a little more, but when I hit things with it they normally move.

[kizer]

Alan just saw your first instructional video. We need more. Actually I need more.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by kizer

Alan just saw your first instructional video. We need more. Actually I need more.

It's called "It's Hammer Time"

Just kidding Allan. Your doing a great job.