Make it handle

[68racer]

Yes thats on a C10. I did the math with corner weights. The rear units are QA1, DD502 might be the part number. Sorry to be vague but I will have to check my facts.

[midnight340]

Rob, no I won't be making it to Nashville, but do hope to get the truck out some this year.

I see I typed in 7" in last post, but will be looking at ordering the 4" stroke/225# spring units. Am anxious to get the F-1 back on the street and see how it handles/rides.

At age 66 my progress isn't as fast as it used to be, but I do get into the shop more often so it all works out. As long as we are having fun, right? :-)

I did get my 1-1/4" sway bar... that's a fat bar compared to my stock 1" As far as the longer pitman arm, I've got a rear sump pan and may have to raise the engine some for clearance... but I'd like to get the 12:1 ratio vs stock 16:1.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by midnight340

Rob, no I won't be making it to Nashville, but do hope to get the truck out some this year.

I see I typed in 7" in last post, but will be looking at ordering the 4" stroke/225# spring units. Am anxious to get the F-1 back on the street and see how it handles/rides.

At age 66 my progress isn't as fast as it used to be, but I do get into the shop more often so it all works out. As long as we are having fun, right? :-)

I did get my 1-1/4" sway bar... that's a fat bar compared to my stock 1" As far as the longer pitman arm, I've got a rear sump pan and may have to raise the engine some for clearance... but I'd like to get the 12:1 ratio vs stock 16:1.

shock/spring sounds good. I talked with some guys this weekend atthe Hiedts muscle Car challenge, they're trying a Nascar inspired set up. 350 ft spring, REALLY progressive shock valving, and 1 7/8" sway bar. - mixed results. Just sayin, theres more than one way to skin a cat. Try Lee power Steering for the close ratio box.

[hotrod1]

Thanks Rob.

[midnight340]

I have my gas tank at the front the box (stock tank reversed out of the cab) and compete without a lot of fuel. Also I've run a spool for years now... Definite need for ballast so have an old implement gas tank cut in half behind tha rear end and always run a sandbag (high tech huh?). It has improved balance and handling immensely... Drags, street cornering, wet traction.
(Spools are treacherous in the wet with a light truck.... But you always have to drive according to what machine you're in.)
Posted via Mobile Device

[jc70chevy]

Hey rob should this help with some chassis flex.

[robnolimit]

yep, anytime you can shape in triangles is a plus

[1FUN64]

On my 64 I am wrapping up my NoLimit wide ride install and setting my engine back in the frame.

I am debating leaving my inner fender wells out.

1) To show offf the new suspension.

2) Weight savings.

Would the weight savings be offset by the stiffness the inner panels provide to the front of the truck? I do not have the frame boxed or reinforced (yet) maybe next winter.

My main focus is handling as I run in the local autocrosses as much as possible.

Great info in these forums guys.

[C0UCH]

Originally Posted by 1FUN64

I am debating leaving my inner fender wells out.

1) To show offf the new suspension.

2) Weight savings.

Would the weight savings be offset by the stiffness the inner panels provide to the front of the truck? I do not have the frame boxed or reinforced (yet) maybe next winter.

Interested in this as well as I just removed mine on my 67.

[Baggerjohn]

On a 67 c-10 long bed daily driver, what is the best way to go for the best handling and great ride, static drop or air bags? Also, is there anything that can help to improve the turning radius? It's a tank. Thank you.

[bdiamond]

Originally Posted by Baggerjohn

On a 67 c-10 long bed daily driver, what is the best way to go for the best handling and great ride, static drop or air bags? Also, is there anything that can help to improve the turning radius? It's a tank. Thank you.

All those questions have been answered earlier in the thread. Its a long read but well worth it. I recommend reading it all at least once. You'll learn way more than you ever wanted to know

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by Baggerjohn

On a 67 c-10 long bed daily driver, what is the best way to go for the best handling and great ride, static drop or air bags? Also, is there anything that can help to improve the turning radius? It's a tank. Thank you.

Actually a tank can turn 180 degrees in it's own length, I get what you mean, but just saying.

[hotrod1]

Rob:

Can you address torque or HP when it comes to autox? Many are building engines to produce big torque. Is this good or does this cause lack of rear end control? That being said, 2 1/2 exhaust or 3" exhaust (to enhance torque or HP)?

[jayman68]

^^^ Along those same lines, in the May issue of Street Trucks they have an article following the install of a new cam and intake in Hell Boy. To start the dyno readings are 506 HP and 412 ft-lb torque, then after it is 457 HP and 445 ft-lb torque. Is that what you were looking for or is that a typo? I understand that torque is what you need to get moving, and it has more effect than HP in autocross. They gave no explaination as to why the drop and some might see that as the wrong way to go.

[Mike Bradbury]

Hey Rob is there a web site that lists the rules for Auto cross? I.E. tires, engine size, weight, roll bars, all wheel drive vs 2 wheel? I know there are different classes but where are the cut offs for the different classes?
There seems to be a lot of guys here including myself that are looking to auto cross our trucks and it would be helpful to know the parameters

[hotrod1]

Oh, forgot. Rear end gear combo? I know there are a lot of factors, but what is a good overall for a autox pickup? 3:50, 3:73, 4:11? If there are too many factors, how would one determine it? What are the goals that need to be accomplished?

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Hey Rob is there a web site that lists the rules for Auto cross? I.E. tires, engine size, weight, roll bars, all wheel drive vs 2 wheel? I know there are different classes but where are the cut offs for the different classes?
There seems to be a lot of guys here including myself that are looking to auto cross our trucks and it would be helpful to know the parameters

Just be like Frizzle Fry and run with the Porches.

ORPCA Autocross #1 05/18/07 - '69 Suburban...

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Just be like Frizzle Fry and run with the Porches.

ORPCA Autocross #1 05/18/07 - '69 Suburban Video#1 - YouTube

Most autocross clubs have there own rules. Tire spec is the big difference. We run mostly American Street Car Series, GoodGuys, and SCCA. Now, we don't have an ulimited tire budget (I know, right?) So, we run a 200 treadwear tire on almost everything. This is good for GoodGuys and ASCS, but we give up some at SCCA events. You can check their web sites for the rules, most are pretty simply safety stuff.

[AutoX_a_Truck?]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Hey Rob is there a web site that lists the rules for Auto cross? I.E. tires, engine size, weight, roll bars, all wheel drive vs 2 wheel? I know there are different classes but where are the cut offs for the different classes?
There seems to be a lot of guys here including myself that are looking to auto cross our trucks and it would be helpful to know the parameters

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Most autocross clubs have there own rules. Tire spec is the big difference. We run mostly American Street Car Series, GoodGuys, and SCCA. Now, we don't have an ulimited tire budget (I know, right?) So, we run a 200 treadwear tire on almost everything. This is good for GoodGuys and ASCS, but we give up some at SCCA events. You can check their web sites for the rules, most are pretty simply safety stuff.

One thing I can recommend from experience is to thoroughly research your tire options, particularly if you plan to run events with the 200 treadwear cutoff. Try to find a tire and size that has a huge following and/or OEM application so it will be in production for the near future. Pick your tire setup first and then shop for wheels that will fit them. I made the mistake of going with wide 17" wheels so I have very few options and have to pay huge premiums for limited production tires that aren't necessarily that great. Custom tires are basically unobtainable whereas custom wheels are readily obtainable and many are affordable too. If I could start over I should have went with 18" wheels even though for aesthetics I prefer the smaller diameter wheels.

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Race report Chris 'Smitty' Smith, of Smitty's customs won the Pro class at the GoodGuys show in Springfield Mass last weekend. Chris' bad ass C10 runs No Limit suspension with RideTech shocks and Shockwaves out back, Yes, it's on air. After the win in Colorado from the HellBoy C10 a few weeks ago, that makes two pro class wins for C10's this year. More are coming!!
Nashville are you close? July 5,6,7 is the ASCS "Run to music City". They are trying to boost Truck participation. The Guys from "Trucks" TV will be there running their new Ranger project and doing some filming. Go check it out.

Congrats Rob. Will you make it to Des Moines this year? I will be there, but I won't be driving my truck this year.

[hart11b]

I've got one for you:

I've got a new to me, fairly stock 1972 K20. It has a steering issue. When I get up to moderate speeds (40+MPH) the steering seems to react incrementally. What I mean...I make a small correction when driving, but either the steering is slow to react and I make too big a correction (it catches up) or something else.

I can't really narrow it down, but it takes a lot of attention to drive this truck and moderate speeds. I really need to fix this, but I don't know if modern mechanics will be up to the task. Of note, the "Stabilizer shock?" seems very old/original if that helps.

[Custom 68]

hart11b, have you checked all the steering connections. From the inner and outer tie rod ends to the pitman arm? It really sounds like something is loose or worn out. Check the ball joints while you are in there. There are lots of connections for the steering.
You also need to remember in stock form the steering boxes are "slower" than a new truck. you have to turn it more to get the same response. Without knowing your history it may just take some getting used to the differences.

[1FUN64]

Mike,

scca.com. Go to "downloads" near top, scroll down to solo rules, click on "go to solo cars and rules page" then "2013 SCCA SOLO Rules". Not sure why it's called "SOLO". There are also links to local events and clubs, no need to be a member to play. My first event in my 64 short wide was a couple years ago and I had the guys at the event help me with classification. I run in the Custom Prepared class, which does not take many modifications to end up there. I recommend running at these events, it is a blast to drive these trucks and it's not something they see every day. Good Luck. PM me if you have any additional questions.

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by 1FUN64

Mike,

scca.com. Go to "downloads" near top, scroll down to solo rules, click on "go to solo cars and rules page" then "2013 SCCA SOLO Rules". Not sure why it's called "SOLO". There are also links to local events and clubs, no need to be a member to play. My first event in my 64 short wide was a couple years ago and I had the guys at the event help me with classification. I run in the Custom Prepared class, which does not take many modifications to end up there. I recommend running at these events, it is a blast to drive these trucks and it's not something they see every day. Good Luck. PM me if you have any additional questions.

Thanks that helps, I am sure I will have Q's

[cory d]

i just grabbed 1 ton coils, some belltech nitro drop shocks and a 7/8" rear bar from a tahoe. if i dont like the shock, o well. they were used and dirt cheap

[oldblue1968chevy]

1 ton coils supposed to be a good budget upgrade?