Conversion Kit - Front Drum Brakes To Disc Brakes

[drsergio]

Got my kit ,,,,with 2.5 drop spindles
Looking for a mechanic to do the work ,,,but amazing people are asking crazy numbers to instal the kit and the brake booster

How hard it's to install this on my 69 GMC truck?

was a great tread here but the pictures are gone

Any one have any ideas or recomendations?

Any good honest Mechanic in Connecticut to do this Job...I am right in Roxbury CT 06783,,near Danbury and waterbury

Thank you for any help

going with 295 45 20 on the rear,,,,,,and 245 40 20 on front
will look good I hope

[drsergio]

Not the rear,,,,but the front brakes / drums

[lolife99]

It's not that hard if you have any mechanical ability.
What kit did you get and what parts were included?

[drsergio]

let me show you the link for the kit,,,and u tube video how clean under the truck is

Here's a link for the kits





http://www.performanceonline.com/196...T-5-and-6-LUG/



and for the power booster



http://www.performanceonline.com/196...STER-KIT-ZINC/



video under

YouTube - TRUCK

[N2TRUX]

Thats a very good kit and should be fairly complete. If you have a decent set of tools, and a reasonable amount of mechanical skills you can do it.

[drsergio]

The old ball joints look in great shape,,,Do I need to replace them ?? lower and up

[N2TRUX]

The kit comes with ball joints so there is no reason not to.

[oldblue1968chevy]

I did it at age 15/16 so you SURELY should be able to figure it out (I rebuilt the frontend and added disc brakes.

[drsergio]

Ok,,,i start doing,,,,one down one to go

[drsergio]

And keep going,,the up ball joint was a pain

tommorrow will do the other side
wish me luck

[N2TRUX]

Looks good so far. Now would be a good time to hit it with some Krylon to keep it fresh for the future.

[drsergio]

Well , the lugs on the disk brakes are very short and I dont feel safe to have those wheels on , I can put a spacer or take the studs and replace them with longer

I think the safe way would change, not sure about spacers on front.

I start the process to put the disk brakes booster,,,a little pain to align the screw under the dash
Now My air cleaner wont fit , need to find a small one
sugestions
ty

[drsergio]

hers the brake kit

[drsergio]

question , I have the 6cy engine and I am looking where to conect the hose for the brake booster.. will need a T on the Intake manifold fitting
where Can I find the locarion
pictures?

[drsergio]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...33#post4622433

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by drsergio

And keep going,,the up ball joint was a pain

tommorrow will do the other side
wish me luck

Ok you like skipped over 60 steps. My problem is which way does the front bearing go in? Is the race in first then the bearing then washer then spindle nut or does the bearing go first, then the race, washer then nut.
Cant find that step anywhere.

[drsergio]

I am almost sure

bearing then washer then spindle nut

what is the race ?

[neto]

Greased bearing, washer, nut and cotter pin.

[drsergio]

make sure you pack the nerings real good with high temperature grease

[drsergio]

bearings

[COBALT]

The bearing race is the shiny strip inside the back of the rotor where the rollers in the inner bearing (the big one) make contact and roll as the wheel turns. There's a similar one on the outer part of the rotor where the smaller outer bearing rides as well. These races are important, and when the rotor assembly is mounted to the spindle should be tight enough to not allow play but not too tight to allow the rollers free allowance to move.

The inner bearing (big one) goes into the back of the rotor behind a grease seal once it is packed really good with grease. The lip on the seal is lightly greased with your finger to avoid tearing when you install the rotor, and is tapped in flush with the back of the rotor with the lip side out once the big inner bearing is in the rotor. The inner bearing may be slightly loose in there - that's no problem. Don't tap the grease seal any deeper - even if it can go deeper. Then once this is done grease the spindle down a bit and slide the rotor onto the spindle until it goes all the way on. The outer bearing (smaller) once it is packed with grease then goes on the spindle inside the rotor once it's on the spindle in as far as it will go. It will feel right because the rotor will suddenly feel centered on the spindle, which is good! The washer goes on and the nut is then used to seat both inner and outer bearings on the spindle (according to the torque specs) at the same time, then back off the nut 1/2 turn and put the pin in. The torque specs are in the usual shop manual or haynes manual for your '69 (I don't have mine handy). Do NOT leave the nut torqued down. For the upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rods make sure the nuts are torqued properly (again in the books). These specs might be in the instructions with the kit by the way.

I'm assuming one would have to upgrade the brake booster/master cylinder from a stock booster/cylinder with this conversion? The stock prop valve and booster probably isn't going to be right for the disk caliper pressure needed for the disk brakes, right?

[Kiamaia]

Does anyone know if the stock 6lug steel rims clear the caliper/rotor on this kit. I am looking to buy the same kit but dont wanna have to get different rims.

[IMG][/IMG]

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Kiamaia

Does anyone know if the stock 6lug steel rims clear the caliper/rotor on this kit. I am looking to buy the same kit but dont wanna have to get different rims.

If they are pre-'71 wheels they won't.
You need to use a 5-lug or 6-lug steel wheel made for the 73-87 trucks to clear the disc brake caliper.
The early wheels don't have the clearance on the back side of the wheel.

[Kiamaia]

That kinda suks for me. I haved moved to australia for work, and am finding it difficult to get parts for my build. (Well at a price im willing to spend). Thanks for your input.

[VDOG]

The outer bearing (smaller) once it is packed with grease then goes on the spindle inside the rotor once it's on the spindle in as far as it will go. It will feel right because the rotor will suddenly feel centered on the spindle, which is good! The washer goes on and the nut is then used to seat both inner and outer bearings on the spindle


Ok so for the outer, the bearing goes first, then the race, then the washer goes behind the race, then the spindle nut?

The way it came off the one in the wrecking yard, was the nut, then the washer, then the bearing, then the race was inside the rotor. Its like the race centered the rotor.