Getting a non running truck started??

[J.Cagle]

Just bought a 1963 c20 that has been in storage for years. I was told with a battery and some brake work it'd run and drive. I stuck a battery in it and it will turn over just fine. And seems to be getting fuel. I am guessing with it setting so long the points are either stuck or need replaced. Any where I can find a how too on points? I have no clue about points. But I am willing to try to learn. I need to learn anyways, plus I am dying to get this thing going! And help, or other suggestions on things to check would be awesome! Thanks guys!

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by J.Cagle

Just bought a 1963 c20 that has been in storage for years. I was told with a battery and some brake work it'd run and drive. I stuck a battery in it and it will turn over just fine. And seems to be getting fuel. I am guessing with it setting so long the points are either stuck or need replaced. Any where I can find a how too on points? I have no clue about points. But I am willing to try to learn. I need to learn anyways, plus I am dying to get this thing going! And help, or other suggestions on things to check would be awesome! Thanks guys!

You need a dwell meter to see if they are gapped correctly when running, or pop the cap and use a feeler gauge. Points look like a contacter and sometimes they get crusty or the entire surface could be burnt. You use an Allen wrench in the door on the dizzy to adjust. I dont know specs, been awhile. I think my '69 307 was something like 28-32.

[powerdriver 1958]

Try cleaning the contacts , If i don't get caught i'll use a nail file or something of that nature . when they set for a while points will get a gray looking corrosion .

[64fleetside]

Buy a new set of points & a condensor, & a new coil-if it has sat a very long time the old oil-filled coil will be dried out.

[krazy_texan]

fluids for sure including trans fluid i had that prob a whild back with my 73 olds

[awbrown]

I suspect you already drained the tank and replaced it with good fuel .. I love getting old stuff running .. I normnally dont invest any money til I see and hear it run , that being said you can just sand the points til you get contact ,once you have fire at the coil wire you are set ..if you have fuel and spark make sure you have not already fouled the plugs.. I keep a used set around from when I change mine out just for a deal like this ... keep us informed ...

[TopFuel1966]

I think the first thing I would do is run a compression check. If a motor has been sitting idle for a long time sometimes rings and valves tend to get stuck and it won't make enough compression when cranked to be able to start. I'm speaking from first-hand experience.

[BR3W CITY]

^I've seen similar, except valve springs broke.
I like to hit a motor with a penetrating oil in the plug holes and let it sit before I try to turn it over.

[Corts60]

Here is how I go about getting an old engine started that has been sitting as it costs almost nothing, I agree with awbrown above that you shouldn't spend a whole lot until you know it runs:

1. Disconnect the fuel line that goes to the inlet of the fuel pump and run your own fuel supply line from a gas can on the ground with fresh gas. That eliminates the bad fuel question.
2. Pop the distributer cap and set the points as mentioned above. Sand paper works great to get a clean contact. You definitely will need a feeler gauge to set them from the get go. Usually somewhere around .018 or so.
3. Pull all the spark plugs to see what you are working with. At the same time, turn over the engine a good 30 seconds with the plugs out. This does two things: clears the combustion chamber of any debris or crap and it also lets the engine build oil pressure.
4.Install the plugs and test the coil for spark- screw driver in the boot or whatever your favorite method is.
5. Once you have determined that you have fuel and spark, you are almost ready to go but you need to be prepared to pull the carb apart and clean it out because usually after so many years there is so much gunk in there that the needle and seat will not operate properly and the carb will flood itself. The best thing is to have a known working carb laying around and just swap them out. Also, if there is a filter in the fuel supply line somewhere, change it out as well or just pull it alltogether at fist.
6. At this point I try to fire it up. Once it is running I set the points with a dwell meter, usually 28-32. I let it get up to operating temp and once I am satisifed that it runs and is worth spending money on, I do a full tune up including changing all the fluids.
7. After that you can decide on your own whether you want to try to hook up the installed gas tank or pull it and clean it to be sure.

Hope this helps.

-Cort

[waspp]

Originally Posted by awbrown

I suspect you already drained the tank and replaced it with good fuel .. I love getting old stuff running .. I normnally dont invest any money til I see and hear it run , that being said you can just sand the points til you get contact ,once you have fire at the coil wire you are set ..if you have fuel and spark make sure you have not already fouled the plugs.. I keep a used set around from when I change mine out just for a deal like this ... keep us informed ...

Ditto on the above. I just went through this a month or so ago with a 63 that had been setting for 15 years. I stuck the fuel hose in a gas can with fresh gas and had to sand the points to clean them up. After a while she fired up and ran like crap but it ran. Later I cleaned the carb and replaced the starter (it wouldn't disengage) and it ran decent enough to move forward and spend some money.

[J.Cagle]

Thanks for all the tips guys! I messed with it a little tonight. It is NOT getting any spark. I pulled the coil wire and nothing. So, I pulled the working coil from my 65 parts truck(runs and drives so I knew the coil was good). I put it in and still nothing. I am not really sure what to check now. I would guess wiring issue obviously, but I don't know much. Just a 24 year old who has ZERO mechanical experience,lol. So, feel free to include the "common sense" tips that most people know. Because, chances are, I dont know them. Thanks Guys!

[geoff.clark]

When I bought my suburban, I must have messed with the points for a couple days - never could figure it out. I ended up buying a HEI and installed this and everything fired right up. I am not saying your issue is with points, but I learned real quick - I have alot to learn.

Forward the clock 2 years suburban is stripped down along with the engine. Waiting for money to find me, I guess I am hiding to well. So if you need an HEI to mess with let me know. Just pay for shipping and its yours.

[J.Cagle]

I am sure HEI would be my best bet for drivability, but I want to keep this truck as much in original form as possible. Its all original now and I am hoping I can keep it that way for now. We shall see tho,lol.

[Captainfab]

I would suggest investing in a multi-meter/volt meter or at least a test light. Then check to see that you are getting 12V to all terminals. Both sides of the coil as well as to the contacts on the points. Also check all wire connections. If there is any rust or corrosion, disassemble and clean. If you still don't have spark, replace the points and the condensor. If the rotor and cap contacts are corroded, either clean or replace. To set the points, you want a .019 gap at the contacts when the rubbing block on the points is on a high point of the 'cam' in the distributor.

Just last week I went thru a no spark issue. It ended up being either a rusted wire connection at the points or corroded contacts on the points. I cleaned both at the same time, and got spark.

[Str8axle]

Clean the points as said above. But, try running a nail file or a piece of emery cloth between the contacts WITHOUT touching any of the adjustment screws. See if you get spark. Chances are the point adjustment was fine when it was parked, so if you can manage to clean up the contacts without changing any adjustment I think you (being of limited mechanical experience) will have a better chance of success. JMHO....

[J.Cagle]

Yep. Im hoping to get it running without setting the points. then take it to someone who knows how and let them do it and teach me how. I bought a test light today so Ill check to see if im getting power to the coil and from the coil. Im keepin my fingers crossed its not a major wiring issue...

[Corts60]

Originally Posted by Str8axle

Clean the points as said above. But, try running a nail file or a piece of emery cloth between the contacts WITHOUT touching any of the adjustment screws. See if you get spark. Chances are the point adjustment was fine when it was parked, so if you can manage to clean up the contacts without changing any adjustment I think you (being of limited mechanical experience) will have a better chance of success. JMHO....

Keep in mind, as you file or sand the points, you have just changed the gap setting because you have worn away material and now the gap is wider. You HAVE to set the points properly through the methods mentioned above or you will not have fun getting that thing started.

If you've never set points, do a search on you tube. I'm sure there is someone on there that recorded themselves setting a typical set of points.

[awbrown]

All the info here is right on , but the quick test cagle is to leave the key on and with the cap off the distributor and the coil wire 1/4 or so from ground/intake manifold ,just use a screwdriver and flick the points open and closed (you will have to nudje the motor with the starter til the points are closed.. I usually just used the screwdriver to rubb the points arm up and down the contact so I dont have to try and file the points .. also you can use the screwdriver to ground the points sliding it over the points arm and touch something else ,if it makes contact and evrything else is ok , it will spark from the coil wire... as far as setting the points , as long as they open and close and make contact ,it will produce a spark if everthing else is OK ,once you get it running ,we used to set them with an allen wrench ,tighten til it quit them go back a quarter turn... That got them pretty close to the right dwell........

[Str8axle]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Keep in mind, as you file or sand the points, you have just changed the gap setting because you have worn away material and now the gap is wider. You HAVE to set the points properly through the methods mentioned above or you will not have fun getting that thing started.

If you've never set points, do a search on you tube. I'm sure there is someone on there that recorded themselves setting a typical set of points.

If you don't file the crap out of em, you'll still be in the ball park. All you need to do is just knock the corrosion off.

[J.Cagle]

Ok, Im getting power on both wires on the coil. and when the key is on im getting power to the points. but i dont seem to have any coming out of the coil. Will it only get power when cranking or just when the key is on?

[Corts60]

At minute 2:50, it shows a good points type ignition setting.

Replacing Contact Breaker Points - YouTube

Also, the coil will only discharge a spark when the points contact is broken, meaning when the points are lifted off the closed position by the camlobe on the distributor shaft. That point contact is a ground and when the ground is broken the coil releases it's energy. SO, if your points are not set correctly, you will not be getting any discharge from your coil even though you have power going to it.

Ignition Coil - How to Test - YouTube

[awbrown]

with the key on ,stick a screw driver between the contacts and move it around you should see sparks... then check and see if you have fire at the coil wire as you move the screwdriver around....if you do you still need to work on getting a connection at the points....

[J.Cagle]

thanks guys! going out to check. BTW, my points contact area is touching up against the metal thing. whatever that piece is called.....

[J.Cagle]

Ok, Im about ready to pull my hair out. My neighbor came over and looked at my points and everything. Everything was fine. Ive got power to the coil and at the points(will spark and light up my test light). But I still have no spark at a plug. I put a new coil and a new condenser on it and still the same. This is frustrating.

[awbrown]

well you may as well replace the points , you replaced everything else!! did you verify that the points were actually moving???