Got Me some Camel Humps!!

[JasonWynn88]

I picked up a set of 65 camel humps casting # 3782461 putting them on 1965 C10 Have a few questions about the install

1. How will they work as far as compression wise they are going on my 72 350block with 75cc heads what will the compression be? Will i have to use 2 head gaskets?

2. Will a 4 barrell in take off of a 85 chevy c10 i believe it is a factory 4 barrell will it work and accept a edelbrock carb. Trying to figure out where i will need to hook up temperature sending unit since the camel humps dont have a port for that.

3. Wanting to put a new cam in it also what cam do i need to look for that will work correctly with the camel humps. Just want something a little more aggressive than stock.

4. How hard is it to swap the alternator to the driver side i know i have to swap water pumps to a short one also.




Any Help would be apperciated



THANKS
Jason

[Captainfab]

1. Assuming your engine has the stock style dished pistons, the smaller 64cc combustion chambers will bump your compression to aprox 9.0-1 No you do not want to use 2 head gaskets. If anything I would use the thinner rubber coated steel shim head gasket, for a slight bump in compression. When you have those heads rebuilt, be sure they true up the head gasket surface.

2. A factory '85 intake will bolt up to those heads. But an Edelbrock carb will not be a direct bolt on. You will need an adapter for that. I would recommend shopping around for a good used aluminum intake. The temperature sensor can mount in the intake. You could even install a 'tee' fitting in the heater hose connection to the intake.

3. What cam depends on your intended usage of the truck, whether you have an auto trans or a manual. With a basically stock engine, you don't want to go very big on a cam. I wouldn't go much bigger than say a Summit #1103 or comparable cam.

4.To move the alternator to the drivers side, you will of course need the short water pump, the correct pulleys, alternator brackets, and belt. If you have or are planning on power steering, you will need a pump, pulleys and brackets for a '72 and older truck, or a '68 and older car.

[JasonWynn88]

Thanks very much. Just trying to figure it all out. Hoping it will work I was asking about the 2 gaskets. Because I heard you can use two to lower compression . Yeah the heads already have been redone. New valves etc just was wondering about camshaft all those numbers confuse me. My truck has the 3 speed. And is my occasional daily driver just want something with a nice lope and not to aggressive what would be a good brand to get. I was thinking about summit brand camshaft. And lifters.



Thanks for the help !!
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[koda360]

I would look for something around the Edelbrock Performer cam and the matching Performer intake. The cam I would buy new, the intake used, IF you find one not cracked and the threads in the holes aren't striped. Hard to look at a used cam and see if it's trashed.
Curious as to why you would want to lower the compression on the "hump heads"? Kinda defeats the purpose of a head swap, unless you have broken parts, and 9.0:1 will still run fine on pump gas.
What size is the carb you plan to use? Any bigger than 600 cfm is too big and will also defeat the purpose of swapping all these parts. Just say'n...
Haven't crossed referenced the Summit cam w/ the edelbrock cam, but if the lift and duration @ .050" are close, should work fine with the performer (or equal) intake.

[pmkrew]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

1. Assuming your engine has the stock style dished pistons, the smaller 64cc combustion chambers will bump your compression to aprox 9.0-1 No you do not want to use 2 head gaskets. If anything I would use the thinner rubber coated steel shim head gasket, for a slight bump in compression. When you have those heads rebuilt, be sure they true up the head gasket surface.

2. A factory '85 intake will bolt up to those heads. But an Edelbrock carb will not be a direct bolt on. You will need an adapter for that. I would recommend shopping around for a good used aluminum intake. The temperature sensor can mount in the intake. You could even install a 'tee' fitting in the heater hose connection to the intake.

3. What cam depends on your intended usage of the truck, whether you have an auto trans or a manual. With a basically stock engine, you don't want to go very big on a cam. I wouldn't go much bigger than say a Summit #1103 or comparable cam.

4.To move the alternator to the drivers side, you will of course need the short water pump, the correct pulleys, alternator brackets, and belt. If you have or are planning on power steering, you will need a pump, pulleys and brackets for a '72 and older truck, or a '68 and older car.

This is very sound advice.
The 461 double hump heads are very good OEM heads and should help some with power, do they already have screw in rocker studs or press in? If they're not screw in I would suggest finding a machine shop to either pin the studs or preferably machine them, this could save you a lot of headache if you have a heavy right foot...

[Captainfab]

The Edelbrock Performer cam is just an old school generis grind. It is exactly the same as the Summit #1102 cam, and the Summit cam is less $$.

If you want a little bit of a lope, you might look into the Comp Cams High Energy cams. In my expereince with them, they have a little lope at idle. Something like this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-210-2/

When installing a flat tappet cam these days, you must be very careful and dilligent about following the proper cam breakin precisely, and running a flat tappet cam friendly oil thereafter. If you do not, more than likely the cam will go flat, and all of that metal will be thru out your engine. There is a thread in the 'Engine and Drivetrain' FAQ about flat tapped cam compatable oils. Definitely worth the read......if you weren't already aware.

[JasonWynn88]

I was just curious about the 2 gaskets because I didn't know what compression I would have being that Iam replacing 75cc heads with 64cc I knew that my compression would go up but didn't know how much. I was. Planning on just running a 600 cfm edelbrock. Or a Holley. But don't know. Which would be better. I can get a factory 4 barrell manifold for cheap but it's a cast iron one. Also it does have pressed in studS and believe they are standard springs. What would be the biggest cam I can use with those springs?
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[koda360]

Personally I like AFB type (Edelbrock) carbs for the street/ daily driver, and Holley for racing. But that's just me and I'm sure to upset a few folks here, not my intention.

After I did a bit of research on the cams listed here, the Edelbrock Performer Plus is close to stock, maybe a bit larger depending on your stock cam.
Edelbrock Performer RPM is quite a bit bigger, more lift, lope, but less vac. @ idle.
The Summit 1103 is real close to a half way point between the two, @ a third of the price. (Vic's real proud of his stuff)

Buy the Summit cam, save the $$ for an aluminum intake. Nothing wrong with iron, but unless your looking @ one that's a square bore (equal sized opening where carb mounts) and not a spread bore (secondary holes larger than primaries) you'll still need an adapter plate.

Just convince your wallet or wife, that the money you saved buying the cheaper cam and not buying the adapter plate, is about the same as a new intake!! I see them on craigslist all the time.

[JasonWynn88]

Yeah i just picked up a iron 4 barrell for 25 bucks! But i think it is a spread bore the round holes on top are two different sizes i think that is what it is. But there is no place to hook up the temp sending unit. Unless i put it where the outlet that goes to the heater that is usually hooked together buy rubber hose. Thats the only place i see where i might work i mean i dont have a heater in it anyway, I removed it when i did the engine swap. Talked to a represenatative from summit about cam selection and told him what i wanted and what i used the truck for. I wanted something alittle more agressive than stock and he said summit cams dont have an aggressive grind to them and he said that he would reccommend a comp cam. So idk iam thinking that the springs on the camel humps are stock they should be able to handle a .500 lift max thats if they are stock. And i was thinking about a holley 600 becuz of price.

[rbar]

I didn't see if you stated whether you had dished pistons or flat tops.
If you have a deck clearance of .025", a .039" head gasket, 6cc flat tops, and 64cc heads, you should end up with 9.6:1 compression on a standard 4" 350. I have read that the 64cc camel humps actually cc out to 68. If that's true it will drop it to 9.2:1. I've had 3 pair but never checked it. I'll be checking some off a 327 next week.
If you have dished pistons, it will lower the compression more. I seem to recall 12.5cc as being a common 70's dish cc. at 12.5cc and 64cc heads, the compression would be 9.03:1. If your deck height is more like .040" instead of .025", it drops it another .25 or .3 in either set up.
If you don't have bolt holes, which I don't think you do on 1965 heads, take a look at the alternator and power steering brackets from Alan Groves that don't use head bolt holes.

[Captainfab]

There is no way a stock set of valve springs are going to work with a .500 lift at the valve.There probably isn't enough retainer to seal/guide clearence either. There is also no need for a cam that big anyway. The Comp HE268 I suggested earlier would be just fine for what you are wanting.

[koda360]

Sorry captainfab, totally forgot you mentioned that Comp cam, I think that's the one I'd go with as well.
Holley carb will work just fine. My only grief is that the bowl gaskets tend to leak over time. The less you drive it, the faster this happens, but that's no biggie. Pop the carb off, replace 'em stick 'er back on and go! Most franchise part stores sell these and the carb to intake gasket.

[rbar]

Maybe consider the 350hp 327 corvette cam. It has a lift of .444 or .447, something right in there. I got 18 miles to the gallon and ran a 14.1 in the quarter at 2700' elevation with a 3 on the tree. It was a 350 with flat tops (4 valve reliefs), bored .030, camel humps with .194 intake valves, edelbrock intake, rochester 4bbl, HEI, and stock 373 posi. It was a great everyday driver on the street and if your running an auto you wouldn't have to worry about the stall. It doesn't thump much though. I later put a .520 lift in that engine and it ran with it, but I took it back out because it didn't work as well because I drove it every day and around town you miss the low end power band of the lower lift cam. I was also thinking I was floating the valves at higher rpms because of the springs, but I don't know for sure, but it was too much for a daily driver, in that engine, and with those springs. For a good sound, maybe look at the smallest comp thumpr cam. I seem to recall that it was around .479 lift. It might be borderline high side for the lift on stock springs, but I have heard alot of people state that .480 lift is the maximum to use on stock springs, but I have never investigated it thoroughly.
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[fleetsidelarry]

Jason, if you already have the manifold, just get a Q-jet for it. they are a perfectly fine carb. Personally, I'm leery of running a square-bore on a spread-bore manifold, having to use an adapter. you can start a small war here on the subject of carburetors

I have the summit 1103 cam and lifter kit in my truck and it's fine. If you're going to invest more, I'd go to a newer style grind as suggested (I think I'll do a Lunati Voodoo, if I don't go ahead and build a roller-cam block).

remember, everybody's definition of daily-driver and street is different. if you want something that REALLY sounds like it has a cam, you'll be losing drivability.

[JasonWynn88]

Has anyone used the summit cam # 1065 It has a lift of .454 intake .454 exhaust?? Says it has Lopy rough idle excellent midrange in street vehicles And likes 9:1 or higher compression. Just a thought Will the factory iron 4 barrell manifold work with like a Holley 600. Or edelbrock? And if I need an adapter. Where can I get it?
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[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Chevy 1969 Corvette 350ci 4 Bolt Main (.30 over)
Cast Iron LS9 3970010
Engine Works 135290H - Camshaft Hydraulic Dual Pattern
Lopey Idle - .445/.465 Lift
Designed to suit the needs of entry level race classes
Idle = Lopey RPM Range = 2200 to 5800
Torque Peak = Mid Adv. Duration = 288/289
Duration at .050 = 214/224 Lift = .445/.465
Centerline = 107/117
KB Pistons 1479H-030 - Silv-O-Lite
Hypereutectic Pistons
Crankshaft Nodular Cast iron
10.5:1 Compression Ratio
Heads - 1968 Chevrolet Corvette
327 Double/Camel Hump
3917291 - 327 - 1968 Corvette - 350hp w/temp unit hole
New Springs – 1969 – Z28
New Stainless Valves
Manley 1.94 Int / 1.50Exh
Hardened Exh Seats
Setup to 490 Lift
New Retainers and Locks
New Guides

Rev'in the Ole' '62 - YouTube

Project: Full Metal Yellow Jacket - "Covert...

Wish they had Thumpr™ Cams back then......
I don't want to pull my engine back apart now if I bought one.
www.compcams.com/Thumpr/index.html

Comp Cams Thumpr Cams - YouTube

https://public.bay.livefilestore.com...A/IMAG1155.jpg
https://public.bay.livefilestore.com...IMAG0266-1.jpg

[ralf]

Not being a long time Chevy guy, I had to look up Camel Humps. If you go to Google Images you just get lots of pics of Camels, go figure.

[padresag]

were you shocked at what you saw?
ron

[ralf]

I typed in camel humps, not toes. Actually once I preceded it with Chevy, all became clear.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Alot of people call them Peanut Heads.
There's no tellin what you would get if you typed that in the search
The famed Camel-Hump/Peanut Heads (or fuelie) heads used until '68 had no accessory bolt-holes and used 1.94 or 2.02 intake valves, depending on application. Most camel-hump heads had the 1.94 intake valves.
Lil' History:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...#ixzz1fKYqeHQ4



Small Block Chevy Cylinder Head Identification
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542

Online engine resources (casting numbers, calculators, etc.)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=382583

[198plus]

I like the Crane 1064 cam, It works great with a 350 and flat top piston's and 64cc heads. should get you pretty close to 400 HP with a good intake and carb........This cam is still available at Whites Performance.

Here's a video of my 350 before I went to a Big Block.

198plus - YouTube

[Captainfab]

That cam is very similar to the Comp HE268 cam I suggested. Like I said, that should give you the idle sound you're after, and decent performance as well. To install a Holley or Edelbrock square bore carb onto a cast iron Q-jet intake, you will need an adapter plate. There are Holley spreadbore carbs that will bolt up without an adapter. If you need an adapter, Summit has them.

Originally Posted by JasonWynn88

Has anyone used the summit cam # 1065 It has a lift of .454 intake .454 exhaust?? Says it has Lopy rough idle excellent midrange in street vehicles And likes 9:1 or higher compression. Just a thought Will the factory iron 4 barrell manifold work with like a Holley 600. Or edelbrock? And if I need an adapter. Where can I get it?
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[corvettejim1968]

growing up i remember we called them double hump heads

[nomrlz]

i agree with above. summit cams are same as edelbrocks just cheaper.
find a used intake to save money. i like the rpm's (especially airgaps look), and stick with a 600cfm carb. you'll notice a nice gain in performance from all this

[64fleetside]

Way back in the 90s, I had a 79 Monza running a .030 over 350 with 461 heads, an Erson copy of that 350hp 327 cam, Edelbrock dual plane & q-jet, with a 4 speed. Man, what an engine, best one I ever built. Great old school combo.