LQ9s

[no moa]

After reading a lot about the ls swaps, I'm seriously thinking of saving up to do an LQ9 build instead of the 454.
What should I pay for u used LQ9, I have found 3 pretty local, they start at $1500 for everything. Is there a better year to get?
Found an 03 escalade engine 150k miles ($1500) and an 06 escalade engine ($2100) 170k miles. Sound like a lot of miles for the money to me. But I want the 9 instead of the 4, and dot really want an LS1.
Thanks.
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[JJAB]

It really depends on your plans of how much of "everything" you plan on using. The LQ9 is definately more desireable over the LQ4 if you can put yor hands on one. Some questions for you would be, do you plan on installing everything as is, meaning no rebuilding? Do you plan on feeding the motor fuel injected or naturally with a carburetor. If you do get either of the motor you mentioned, be sure to get the gas pedal assembly also. But I am sure you have done your research on that as well.

I am located in Texas and in the DFW metroplex, you can get a LQ9 shortblock around $350 and a longblock for $500. All of that being said, it just depends on your overall plans with the build. I have completed 3 of these swaps and working on a fourth, LQ9 swap now. If done right, your going to love every minute of drivetime, especially if you upgrade cam, exhaust, etc...

[no moa]

Thanks JJAB,

I would probably go with just cleaning it up, get all the parts for an install, mounts, wireing harness, manifolds, etc set it up, and run it for awhile. Then i can do a rebuild of the motor, and a cam upgrade in the winters (all 5 months of it) in the future. The truck i'm redoing now it at the point i can go either way, i really think i should make a decision before i start a complete reassembly.
I also think i would like to swtich out the TB to a cable gas pedal instead of the DBW. And i would like to run the motor fuel injected, putting a tank under the bed for this application.
I will probably run manifolds or shorty headers, i'd like to run a 4l60/65 or 80 tranny.

[JJAB]

Sounds like your a doing all of your planning ahead of time. GOOD! I should say though, switching to the DBC throttle body would require that you obtain a DBC wiring harness and ECM(red & blue connector). It would benefit you $$ wise to purchase a DBC engine package. When you get to swapping harnesses and ECM's, the conversion can get confusing, overwhelming and needless to say pricey!! My advice would be, look for a pre- 2002, which would assure the DBC. Also, try to find a package with a motor with less than 125,000. I prefer less than 100,000 when doing no rebuilding. My everday driver is a 01 yukon with 200,000 plus miles and she drives great but she clatters a lot if I dont use premium gas and she burn a little oil. These are just suggestions, Hopefully, some of the other experienced and more knowledgeable members will chime in. GOOD LUCK!!!!

[no moa]

Cool thanks! I'll update as i go.

[no moa]

By the look of it, the LQ9 came out in 02, so i'm guessing i will have to run the DBW if i want to run the LQ9.

[BR3W CITY]

if you plan on rebuilding it, the lq9 is spending extra money for no reason. Since the only difference is the pistons, you may find it more suitable to just find a cheap lq4 short block and put a nice set of pistons in it. If your buying a complete motor, the lq9 will command a higher price.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

if you plan on rebuilding it, the lq9 is spending extra money for no reason. Since the only difference is the pistons, you may find it more suitable to just find a cheap lq4 short block and put a nice set of pistons in it. If your buying a complete motor, the lq9 will command a higher price.

In my area of Texas LQ9s are more common in wreaking yards, The last 2 2500HD engine jobs ive done, I had to "settle" for LQ9s. Soccer moms love to wreak their low mileage Ecalades & Denalis.

If memory serves correctly LQ9s also have different heads.

[Mr. 250r]

All the ls info you could want http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/LSPrimer/Part2/, also a part 1 for more in depth ls car engines also in my sig, i plan on getting an 06 106k mile lq4 for 1900$ with everything wiring, computer, air filter, sensors, accesories, etc.... i wanted an lq9 but the price difference isn't worth it neither is the hp difference for the price

I would try to get an 01+ ls motor as the early ones had problems and iron heads an i think 03 had head porosity problems with a certain casting # lol then they did the whole dbc to dbw conversion, ive done too much research i think i might be forgetting information instead of retaining it and as far as the difference goes...... read below =-p

The 6.0L LQ9 is a more powerful evolution of the LQ4, developed for Cadillac's luxury sport utility vehicles. It features increased power output achieved primarily through the use of LQ9-specific: flat-top pistons, rods, crank, and beefier pushrods that increase the compression ratio from 9.4:1 (for the LQ4) to 10.0:1. The block and heads are common with the LQ4.
Originally referred to as the “Vortec H.O. 6000”, in 2006 the LQ9 was renamed the “Vortec MAX” to underscore its being the most powerful light duty V8 in GM’s truck line at that time. The 2006+ engine “vanity” cover displays new “Vortec MAX” badging. from the link above

And a great upgrade as far as heads are concerned is the ls3 head swap but will not work on the 5.3 in case people are wondering as the bore needs to be 4.00in

[no moa]

Thanks everyone. I also called a buddy of mine last night, he has done a bunch of these in older 60s trucks, he stated that an LQ4 is fine, and if i cam it, will be more than i need, and its alot smarter $ wise to get as JJAB said, a pre 2002 LQ4 engine with DBC instead of using DBW.

I found a bunch of LQ4s local i'm going to call and get pricing see if i can compare.

[nomrlz]

i've been researching swap stuff as well. i've found you can buy a complete pull out motor/trans/harness/ecu dbc for not much more than just the engine/trans seperate and you get the acc with complete pull out. normally around here just the motor don't get acc

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

if you plan on rebuilding it, the lq9 is spending extra money for no reason. Since the only difference is the pistons, you may find it more suitable to just find a cheap lq4 short block and put a nice set of pistons in it. If your buying a complete motor, the lq9 will command a higher price.

Originally Posted by clinebarger

In my area of Texas LQ9s are more common in wreaking yards, The last 2 2500HD engine jobs ive done, I had to "settle" for LQ9s. Soccer moms love to wreak their low mileage Ecalades & Denalis.

If memory serves correctly LQ9s also have different heads.

Only difference is pistons, stronger rods, and basic tuning. Everything else is the same, heads are the identical 317s on both.

Honestly, for the slight difference in compression, the LQ9 isn't worth the extra cash especially if you plan to do a rebuild. A simple tune on a severely detuned stock application LQ4 will put you above stock LQ9 numbers, and while rebuilding, swapping the pistons, or simply milling the 317s heads (or swapping to 243s which are identical in flow, just with a smaller combustion chamber) will put you at or above stock LQ9 compression. As far as the rods, the difference in strength isn't enough to matter on a mild build, maybe just toss some arp bolts on while you have it apart.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by no moa

Thanks everyone. I also called a buddy of mine last night, he has done a bunch of these in older 60s trucks, he stated that an LQ4 is fine, and if i cam it, will be more than i need, and its alot smarter $ wise to get as JJAB said, a pre 2002 LQ4 engine with DBC instead of using DBW.

I found a bunch of LQ4s local i'm going to call and get pricing see if i can compare.

if your do an early lq4, you may get locked into a 4l80e because of the longer crank flange on the early lq4's/

[no moa]

How early is early?

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

if your do an early lq4, you may get locked into a 4l80e because of the longer crank flange on the early lq4's/

Originally Posted by no moa

How early is early?

99-00 LQ4s had iron heads and the longer crank.

You aren't "necessarily" locked into the 4l80e. It had the longer crank flange that was the right length to work with the 4l80e/NV4500, 01+ used the typical LS style flange and used a spacer or extra thick flywheel to mate to the 4l80e/NV4500 respectively.

The LS style 4l60e was built to work with the shorter crank flange, while the 99-00 longer LQ4 flange would work with 700R4, TH400, old 4l60e, etc whereas the newer style needs spacers to work with those applications. The 99-00 LQ4 was the only one with the oddball flange, similar year 5.3s etc had the shorter flange.

[no moa]

Great info thanks, i'm going for an 01-02 motor, and if i can find a 4l80e i'll use that. but those are pricy so i'm not sure what it will be. I have 3 turbo 400s, i might trade a couple for a newer tranny. lol

[no moa]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-0-LITER-VO...item23162be892

This is basically what i should be looking for i'm guessing. DBC. This one is out of my price range.

[Clyde65]

That is a complete motor with all accessories so it will be higher, plus it only has 60K miles on it. I would call them and offer 1250-1500 and see if they will take it. you could get a 5.3 and cam it?

[Mr. 250r]

If you could get it for under 18 that would be one heck of a steal at least for me with a complete motor etc.... as far as 4l80s go look for the older ones you might have more luck finding them cheaper anywhere from 91-96 unless you already did while the plugins won't be the same there is adapters my cousin used them and ill be using them

[no moa]

I found a 5.3 real cheap, still in the truck, but most i have talked to said use the 6.0. I won't be buying till after the holidays, but when i do i'll let you all know.
thank you for the info.

[JJAB]

In my opinion, that is exactly what you are looking for. Looks as if they are offering a warranty so you do have some sense of reassurance on your money. One other note, inquire what that 6.0 came out of so you can determine what transmission was behind it. In my opinion, follow suit with the same kind of transmission that was behind it originally. Reason being, if the harness was originally "wired' or "pinned" for a 4l60E and you decide to convert to a 4l80E, then you have to worry and pay for someone to add a second speed sensor plug and the ECM must be flashed or programmed to "talk to the 4l80E instead of the 4l60E. You want to simplify the conversion process as much as possible. And sometimes making uniformed decisions can cause the conversion to be a bit more pricey.

[no moa]

Unfortunatly its to much for my budget right now, but i'm saving!he comes highly recommended, so i'll give him a call when i get some $ together. And yes i will see what the tranny was when i do buy a motor. Thank you for the info.

[no moa]

I was going to run the VIN, but i didn't know that Compnine is gone, that sucks.

[Clyde65]

I would get the 5.3, you can cam it and tune it, it would have ample power and better fuel mileage than the LQ4/9. the only one who cares how much motor you have under the hood is you. I put the 4.8 in mine cuz it was the cheaper motor and with the 4speed tranny and 3.42's I can get around 20mpg hwy and average 15 in the city. I still have plenty of get up and move if I want it. I dont race or hot rod, this is the most power I have had in a vehicle in quite some time, so I am enjoying it.

[no moa]

Thats been discussed also Clyde65. The 5.3 is great motor also, either one will work, its a matter of price and mileage i'll be searching for.
Thank you