My caster mod (with pictures)

[HO455]

Got a short window on the alignment rack this afternoon so I got a set of initial readings. This is with the shim sets that the PO had installed and I just reused as a base line. My first impression was "Yikes I went too far!". I may have to pull the lower arms and mill a third location if I can't remove some of the caster!!!

[HO455]

After going through it all this is what I came up with. The Burban is bagged so to get the camber where it is I did go with a one inch higher ride height. The biggest driver of this was to reduce the number of shims so now I have full thread contact on the upper control arm bolts. I will drive it this way for a while and see what I decide what to change next.

[cab4word67]

Thanks everyone for all these reply's and the great write up. I am starting my 67 drop and want to keep my stock spindles due to a disc conversion and this will be great. Does anyone know what the aliening specs are to be after this mod?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

Thanks everyone for all these reply's and the great write up. I am starting my 67 drop and want to keep my stock spindles due to a disc conversion and this will be great. Does anyone know what the aliening specs are to be after this mod?

Alignment specs will vary depending on the type of build & parts used. Some guys won't stray from OE specs.

OE called for Zero to POS .5 Camber. I target NEG .5 Camber.

For caster, I request as much as possible w/o impacting my Camber target. These C10's didn't have much Caster to begin with. If you can get 5° that's pretty decent (I was able to yield 6.9/7.4 for reference).

Toe was pretty close to OE. The larger/wider the foot-print, there might be need to adjust to account for the increased contact patch.

[cab4word67]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Alignment specs will vary depending on the type of build & parts used. Some guys won't stray from OE specs.

OE called for Zero to POS .5 Camber. I target NEG .5 Camber.

For caster, I request as much as possible w/o impacting my Camber target. These C10's didn't have much Caster to begin with. If you can get 5° that's pretty decent (I was able to yield 6.9/7.4 for reference).

Toe was pretty close to OE. The larger/wider the foot-print, there might be need to adjust to account for the increased contact patch.

Thanks pretty much what I did on my 65 Mustang

[HO455]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

Thanks everyone for all these reply's and the great write up. I am starting my 67 drop and want to keep my stock spindles due to a disc conversion and this will be great. Does anyone know what the aliening specs are to be after this mod?

I posted my alignment specifications on post 214.

[67LS3GMC]

I know this is an old thread but I did this mod to my 67 and I have severe tire scrub when I turn, is it normal ?
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67LS3GMC

I know this is an old thread but I did this mod to my 67 and I have severe tire scrub when I turn, is it normal ?
Posted via Mobile Device

After re-aligning?
What are the final alignment specs?

[67LS3GMC]

Not sure on caster need to find a shop I trust. Set at home Toe is 1/8" camber is close to 0. Drives good just when I back out of a parking spot and turn the wheels hard one of them will scrub bad (as in tear up grass or leave a black mark) they have a different turning radius from each other ?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67LS3GMC

Not sure on caster need to find a shop I trust. Set at home Toe is 1/8" camber is close to 0. Drives good just when I back out of a parking spot and turn the wheels hard one of them will scrub bad (as in tear up grass or leave a black mark) they have a different turning radius from each other ?

You'll def need to get it dialed in after the mod since it's a significant change. With the Caster Mod, guys are usually seeing around/over +5°. These trucks were lucky to ever see +3°.

I have 6.9/7.4 on my dually. Going from reverse to forward there is a shift but once you're moving it's not an issue. Toe needs to be dialed in as well.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 67LS3GMC

I know this is an old thread but I did this mod to my 67 and I have severe tire scrub when I turn, is it normal ?
Posted via Mobile Device

Not normal! I did it on my 67 with no issues.

As previously recommended get thy truck to the alignment shop.

Now it is possible to install the upper control arms on the wrong sides and to put the centerlink on backwards. I have no idea how much of the front suspension you worked on but these are easy things to check before going to the alignment shop and trust me they are much cheaper to rectify at home, rather than when your truck is up on the rack.

Good luck and please share your findings.

[67LS3GMC]

It was frame up build, all new components. 2" or 2-1/2 spindles (don't remember) 1" springs etc.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67LS3GMC

It was frame up build, all new components. 2" or 2-1/2 spindles (don't remember) 1" springs etc.

Ahhh.... Definitely verify the a-arms are on the correct sides & the Center-Link isn't backwards. I bet you're ok on the Center-Link because there's typically tie-rod to x-member interference when that occurs.

[cab4word67]

how does one know if the upper control arms are backwards?

[cwcarpenter98]

Yeah, don't be like me and try to get it aligned with the UCAs on backwards. It won't work well.
Fist picture shows them on backwards. See how there's more angle between the UCA and the top of the spindle?
Second picture shows them on the correct side. Look at how the UCA and top of the spindle are sitting more parallel.
You want to have the bump stop towards the rear of the truck.

[cab4word67]

Yes I see, the spindle is more in line with the front UCA mounting bolt too.

[67LS3GMC]

Yes A-arms on correct side, as my helper double checked all my work on the truck.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...1&d=1650127136