Need 1/8" Pipe thread temp sender compatible with stock gauge

[chuckmc8]

2003 5.3
1971 Blazer

Autometer 2277 adapter-goes into head on pass side and has 1/8" thread port for sender----1/8" NPT Female to M12x1.5 Male
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...il.aspx?vid=61

What I am looking for is a 1/8" sender that will screw into the adapter and be accurate for the stock Blazer gauge. The Autometer site sez

"If using with a Short Sweep Electric Temperature gauge, sender #2259 is also required."
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...il.aspx?vid=33

Will this sender correctly operate the factory gauge? If not, Autometer sells others or another 1/8" sender might work. Anyone know?

I am not looking for other alternatives such as drilling and tapping the head- I only want to now about a sender--Thanks!

[68GMCCustom]

I just tapped the passenger sides head to fit my autometers slightly larger sender size. Magnet, some grease, and a lot of care to pull the metal out of the hole while drilling. Factory sender is in the drivers side head for the efi...so yes I have 2 senders!

[69CST6.0]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I just tapped the passenger sides head to fit my autometers slightly larger sender size. Magnet, some grease, and a lot of care to pull the metal out of the hole while drilling. Factory sender is in the drivers side head for the efi...so yes I have 2 senders!

What was the magnet for? Did it do a good job. Jk That is a really good tip and I probably will use it.

[68fixeruper]

Here is what i did.

Posted via Mobile Device

[chuckmc8]

[QUOTE=69CST6.0;5931962]What was the magnet for?

The real question is, what does a magnet do to aluminum shavings?

Anyone know where I can find out about compatible 1/8" senders to the 1971 gauge?

[71chevystep4x4]

I'm using #2259 on my 71, and everything seems to be working fine. I got the Idea from others using it as well, and never noticed that it said only works on 95 and newer guages until I read the link you posted.

[solidaxel]

What does Street and Performance have to offer?

[Robznob11]

I bought a aluminum pipe off ebay that was tapped for a stock sender. Cut the upper radiator hose and installed it ofchorse i dont see temp till the thermostat opens. But its the cheapest way. And you can always find a sender or gauge to work even cheap auto store gauges. I know that if i dont see temp with in a few min of driving i would have to have a stuck thermostat. Lol the puter monoters temp to and if the engine gets to hot it will attempt to cool it with extra fuel makeing the thing run real funny!
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[68GMCCustom]

[quote=chuckmc8;5932413]

Originally Posted by 69CST6.0

What was the magnet for?

The real question is, what does a magnet do to aluminum shavings?

Anyone know where I can find out about compatible 1/8" senders to the 1971 gauge?

I guess I was thinking of tapping something else....a different metal obviously.

[chuckmc8]

Just to update this thread with a conclusion- The autometer 2259 and the autometer adapter was the ticket- no drilling and threading and the factory gauge works like new. Thanks for the help.

[G8DAN]

So with those 2 autometer products you were able to use the factory gauges and not have to do any extra drill and tapping?

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by G8DAN

So with those 2 autometer products you were able to use the factory gauges and not have to do any extra drill and tapping?

Yup, that's the deal. Here is installed pics. Just hook up the green wire that went to the factory sender.

sorry for the tilted pics-it's just beyond me

[G8DAN]

Thanks man! This helped striaghten out some questions I had about the temp gauge.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

Yup, that's the deal. Here is installed pics. Just hook up the green wire that went to the factory sender.

sorry for the tilted pics-it's just beyond me

Thank you for the follow up. Any idea why the link says 1995 and newer? I'm not doubting you. Just curious what the significance might be.
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[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

Just to update this thread with a conclusion- The autometer 2259 and the autometer adapter was the ticket- no drilling and threading and the factory gauge works like new. Thanks for the help.

Have you checked the engine and radiator with a I/R gun to see if they ate reading the same?

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Thank you for the follow up. Any idea why the link says 1995 and newer? I'm not doubting you. Just curious what the significance might be.
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Beats me

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Have you checked the engine and radiator with a I/R gun to see if they ate reading the same?

I don't have an I/R gun, but that would certainly be worthwhile. Since the gauge doesn't have numbers, you are just in a 'range' anyway. In my 50 years of roddin', after I drive and open the hood, I can lay my hand on the radiator (if just for a second) and pretty much tell if its too hot or not. My 5.3 runs in the lower portion of the 71 temp gauge scale, and it is close in my personal experience method. Still, not something to guess with, but I am through with it and moved on to something else ;-)

What the gauge gives you is a 'normal' baseline anyway. Once that is established, the gauge just lets you know that something is amiss.

if anyone installs this sender and adapter and has access to an I/R gun, please post the results to seep this thread updated, since this is valuable info for swappers.

If anyone would like to send me an I/R gun or a gift certificate, please PM me for addy

[bohmankid]

Thanks chuck. This will help multiple people, including me.

[cjohnson6772]

In case anyone is interested...... here is the resistance vs temp chart for both the 2258 and 2259 sender
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[Daaaanz67]

This is great info thinking of converting to this setup. I'm currently using one of street and performance adaptors and the original sending unit my tuner says its not reading correctly because the adaptor is so long and the water is not constantly moving cross the sender.
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[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

This is great info thinking of converting to this setup. I'm currently using one of street and performance adaptors and the original sending unit my tuner says its not reading correctly because the adaptor is so long and the water is not constantly moving cross the sender.
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Just thinking, if the brass sits long enough in the aluminum head with the water passing next to it "should" come up VERY close to the same temp, even if it is not in direct contact with the water.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

In case anyone is interested...... here is the resistance vs temp chart for both the 2258 and 2259 sender
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Thanks I need that for another mis reading temp gauge I am working on.
Now how do I get it to read from 230* down to 180*

[TR65]

I put cjohnson6772 data on my temperature sender data. Doesn't exactly match either the 60-66 GM sender or the late model GM sender but it is closer to the late model one.

I have yet to find a sender in small size that works for the 60-66 stock gage. (The late model sender overheats from high current and pegs the stock gage at any water temperature.)

The attached file gives a bigger picture.

TR

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by TR65

I put cjohnson6772 data on my temperature sender data. Doesn't exactly match either the 60-66 GM sender or the late model GM sender but it is closer to the late model one.

I have yet to find a sender in small size that works for the 60-66 stock gage. (The late model sender overheats from high current and pegs the stock gage at any water temperature.)

The attached file gives a bigger picture.

TR

Thanks for putting that on the chart! Gives a good graphical way of seeing the relationship. I believe you could use the autometer sender and a 75 ohm resistor in parallel to the gauge to get it "pretty close".

Also: if I=V/R wouldn't the late model gauge have less current? (Constant voltage and greater resistance?)
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[TR65]

I think the 60-66 sender sees a higher voltage from the gage thus increaseing the current. As the sender puck self heats from the current the resistance drops and the current increases leading to a runaway and the gage pegs in a minute or two.

TR