Always a project truck...............my driveway build

[moregrip]

pulled the trigger, parts are ordered! No going back now.

Going to address the suspension first on this build

Parts List:
1. Belltech 4/6 drop kit with Street Performance Shocks(3" spindles/1" springs/flip kit/c-notch)
2. Porterbuilt 1" forward tubular lower control arms/delrin bushings/ for stock coil spring application(centers front wheel in wheel opening correcting the known visual flaw when lowered/adds castor gain of approx 7 deg)
3. Stock upper control arms with MOOG K6184 problem solver control arm shafts/bushing kit(allows additional positive camber adjustment)
4. Stock rear leaf springs and shackle w/Energy suspension bushings(have run these before and like them alot)
5. Energy suspension body mounts
6. McGaughy's 12.5" Front Disc Brake Kit part# 63156
7. MOOG tie rods/adjustment sleeve/idler/pitman arm/ball joints
8. Dorman lower control arm u-bolts

Should be a good start to a nice riding truck!!

[moregrip]

Few updates:

Sent the McGaughys's front brake kit back (it was not the 12.5" kit advertised but a stock rotor diameter kit). No worries, going to source my own parts, Raybestos professional line and Timken bearings/seals. Going with Dorman Spindle nuts and washers as I couldn't find another source for those. Hopefully of the same "made in the USA" quality as their lower control arm u-bolts.

Looking for a good carb re-builder for the 1 barrel monojet, any leads?

Received the Belltech 4/6 drop kit.....all checks out.

[moregrip]

update #2 (real time)

I don't know what I hate more.......the wax coating GM puts on the frame of the new stuff.........or...........40yrs of dirt and grease!

Got a few things accomplished yesterday. The main thing I wanted to get done was remove the girder beam up front(accomplished). Thank GOD for penetrating oil(but damn that stuff stinks)!!!

Setting piles aside for solvent tank cleaning and blasting! No fancy powder coat for this one............ driveway DIY all the way!

[rusty76]

I'm watching this one for sure. Got to let us know how all this stuff goes.!

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I'm watching this one for sure. Got to let us know how all this stuff goes.!

got a little more quality time with the cleaning supplies today

[Devillusion]

subscribed for sure....

[moregrip]

couple of updates:

1. I talked with Tom Langdon about my integrated head situation and some of the issues I was experiencing. He recommending adding a few degrees of timing(which I did). That helped out tremendously but with such a high failure(cracking) rate at it's current life cycle I am torn between just installing a rebuilt carb(less money now) or switching to a non integrated head/intake/carb/header setup (obviously more $$ upfront)

2. Still waiting for all the parts to show up. Although I did take delivery on some chassis paint(good news).

3. Need to finish up on all my piles of the parts I will refurb vs replace. Going slower than expected of course.

that's about it for now! stay tuned!

[bluex]

cool build, hope your keeping the I6! If you want solid tierod adjuster sleeves look at edelbrock part number 5252. I just used a set on my front end rebuild. I think they were about $50 though....

[frog210]

hope fully they dont take 2 months with those control arms like they did with mine, but they sure are nice do!

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by bluex

cool build, hope your keeping the I6! If you want solid tierod adjuster sleeves look at edelbrock part number 5252. I just used a set on my front end rebuild. I think they were about $50 though....

yes keeping the inline 6 thanks for the tip on the adjuster sleeves (already bought Moog).

going to try this out on some, if not most, of the suspension pieces and front frame(what I can access anyway)

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by frog210

hope fully they dont take 2 months with those control arms like they did with mine, but they sure are nice do!

Got a tracking number on them Monday, will be here tomorrow

edit: Fel Pro gasket set showed up damaged, re sending(another 4 days on that)

[rusty76]

Inline sixes can be built fairly cheap. As for cracking if you are worried about it doing so in the front of the block. You can, sometimes, drill it and put a pin or small bolt in it to stop it. Did this on our race car many years ago and held up very good. The motor spun to 6500 rpms. So these motors can take right much abuse. I say spend the money up front and enjoy some of the fruits. I know our motor in our race car spends now close to 7000 rpms. Crazy I know but that's on a stock bottom end. These motors are cool.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Inline sixes can be built fairly cheap. As for cracking if you are worried about it doing so in the front of the block. You can, sometimes, drill it and put a pin or small bolt in it to stop it. Did this on our race car many years ago and held up very good. The motor spun to 6500 rpms. So these motors can take right much abuse. I say spend the money up front and enjoy some of the fruits. I know our motor in our race car spends now close to 7000 rpms. Crazy I know but that's on a stock bottom end. These motors are cool.

Wow, good info on the durability of these motors Do you have any links or pics you'd be willing to share? Thanks!



lookie what showed up today! from other pics of PB 73-87 lower A-Arms, design may have changed a bit

[moregrip]

got some cleanup work done on the cross-member. ground down any welding slag, deburred all knife edges, spending the day getting some more rust removed, then give this KBS coating system a try:




I bought this truck on ebay and all was as described with the exception of the drivers side leading edge of the frame being slightly bent. What methods have others(you) used to fix this?

looks like the damage(impact point) came from just below the drivers side frame rail height heading up and inward(mostly inward), top edge of the frame is kinked upwards as a result, side of frame rail is bent inward.



thinking about making a couple of relief cuts(easier to bend frame), straightening the frame, then welding the seams shut, thoughts?

edit: if anyone has a drivers side to passenger side 1/2 ton frame rail to frame rail measurement on a straight frame handy I'd sure appreciate it! just need to know where you took your measurement from

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

pulled the trigger, parts are ordered! No going back now.

Going to address the suspension first on this build

Parts List:
1. Belltech 4/6 drop kit with Street Performance Shocks(3" spindles/1" springs/flip kit/c-notch)
2. Porterbuilt 1" forward tubular lower control arms/delrin bushings/ for stock coil spring application(centers front wheel in wheel opening correcting the known visual flaw when lowered/adds castor gain of approx 7 deg)
3. Stock upper control arms with MOOG K6184 problem solver control arm shafts/bushing kit(allows additional positive camber adjustment)
4. Stock rear leaf springs and shackle w/Energy suspension bushings(have run these before and like them alot)
5. Energy suspension body mounts
6. McGaughy's 12.5" Front Disc Brake Kit part# 63156
7. MOOG tie rods/adjustment sleeve/idler/pitman arm/ball joints
8. Dorman lower control arm u-bolts

Should be a good start to a nice riding truck!!

Looks like a decent parts list but I question the need for or use of the Moog off-set shafts. If anything, it's better to have some negative camber vs. positive for a sport truck (mild lowering suggests that's your intent). If your current shafts are in good shape, re-use them & spend the money toward a quality sway bar/bushing set-up.

Factory specs call for around +.5 positive camber w/minimal tire wear issues. Target -.5 camber for better corner grip. Positive camber allows for 'push' or oversteer in corners which gets the average driver to slow down. Negative camber allows for more tire patch contact when cornering.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks like a decent parts list but I question the need for or use of the Moog off-set shafts. If anything, it's better to have some negative camber vs. positive for a sport truck (mild lowering suggests that's your intent). If your current shafts are in good shape, re-use them & spend the money toward a quality sway bar/bushing set-up.

Factory specs call for around +.5 positive camber w/minimal tire wear issues. Target -.5 camber for better corner grip. Positive camber allows for 'push' or oversteer in corners which gets the average driver to slow down. Negative camber allows for more tire patch contact when cornering.

Much appreciated. When the Moog parts get here I'll measure the distance of the "built in" offset vs. the stack of shims I removed. If it is equal of less than the the total of the shim pack I'm hoping to be in good enough shape to introduce some negative camber. If not, I may be going back to a standard UCA shaft.

I know it's petty, but I just don't like seeing 1/2" worth of shims.

[rusty76]

Originally Posted by moregrip

Wow, good info on the durability of these motors Do you have any links or pics you'd be willing to share? Thanks!



lookie what showed up today! from other pics of PB 73-87 lower A-Arms, design may have changed a bit

Check inliners.org they used to have some good stuff. I'm guessing they are still around. There are several books available as well. You'd be surprised at what internally is interchangeable. Our block were always 230cid with a 194 head. Meaning a head off a 194 cid block. They were basically rebuilt heads with good valve stems and roller rockers on top. There's some machining to do but it can't hurt to study up on these. Flow isn't great with stock heads but you can do more than our class allowed. As for the bottom ends go we ran stock 230 cranks. Aftermarket rods. I think we used to use rods for a 283 cid V8. Here again you have more opportunity to improve. ARP rod bolts. We used to run a single barrel carb. That thing would flow. Then they allowed us to go to a 2bbl. Which helped right much. These motors don't need a whole lot of carb as we found out. We ran a 350cfm Holley with good results, but a good Edelbrock carb two or four and a Clifford or Offenhauser intake would be good. Set of headers if they will work with the lowering of your truck. You can just rebuild and be happy too. Hope this helps.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Check inliners.org they used to have some good stuff. I'm guessing they are still around. There are several books available as well. You'd be surprised at what internally is interchangeable. Our block were always 230cid with a 194 head. Meaning a head off a 194 cid block. They were basically rebuilt heads with good valve stems and roller rockers on top. There's some machining to do but it can't hurt to study up on these. Flow isn't great with stock heads but you can do more than our class allowed. As for the bottom ends go we ran stock 230 cranks. Aftermarket rods. I think we used to use rods for a 283 cid V8. Here again you have more opportunity to improve. ARP rod bolts. We used to run a single barrel carb. That thing would flow. Then they allowed us to go to a 2bbl. Which helped right much. These motors don't need a whole lot of carb as we found out. We ran a 350cfm Holley with good results, but a good Edelbrock carb two or four and a Clifford or Offenhauser intake would be good. Set of headers if they will work with the lowering of your truck. You can just rebuild and be happy too. Hope this helps.

Awesome! Been looking at the Clifford manifold with weber 2 barrel carb setup with a pair of pacesetter long tube headers. On the hunt for a non integrated head; I have a FEL-PRO master gasket set in the waiting

[83 Silverado]

If your looking for some upper control arms for your build, look at Michigan Metal Works flat stock upper's, they had a deal with free shipping this weekend, I ordered a set for $149.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by 83 Silverado

If your looking for some upper control arms for your build, look at Michigan Metal Works flat stock upper's, they had a deal with free shipping this weekend, I ordered a set for $149.

that's a sweet deal!!! Would you believe I literally just finished removing the bushings and ball joints on my stockers I think I have $150 in parts just to rebuild those things

I have a decent pile of parts I'm taking on base tomorrow, going to clean all I can in their blast cabinet It's good to have an auto hobby shop to use from time to time

[moregrip]

spent some time in front of the blasting cabinet today.......took way longer than I thought it would. Round one down, two or three more to go, I suspect!!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Pie rule. Everything takes 3.14 times longer than expected to complete
Posted via Mobile Device

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Pie rule. Everything takes 3.14 times longer than expected to complete
Posted via Mobile Device

on another note, after returning the McGaughys brake kit I sourced my own brake parts. Most of them come from Raybestos professional line (calipers, rotors, flex lines). Used the Raybestos Advanced Technology Ceramic brake pads. Many years ago I worked at a Texaco gas station and the owner who I respect quite a bit, swore by Raybestos. Going to add power brakes vs the stock manual brakes; Tuff Stuff master cylinder/power brake boost combo and Right Stuff Detailing front brake hardline kit and proportioning valve. Using Timken bearings and seals.

Please feel free to critique/offer advice, and thanks.

[moregrip]

one step closer, gaskets now in stock!!

[moregrip]

round 2 complete. cleaned up the motor mount brackets, upper control arm shaft washers/hardware, fan, carb linkage bracket, etc. did a little rework on the UCA's as well. enjoy: