What to do about a bent frame???

[B_Bob]

Hey guys, sooooooo I got a little problemo......... I was poking around under my truck, getting ready to take it apart to swap crossmember, when I noticed that the frame rails forward of the crossmember are bent. I hate to put a bunch of work into a frame that is bent, so the question is, what do I do about it?
I could:

1. Not worry about it as it seems to only be forward of the crossmember.

2. Take it to a shop to have it straightened out. (how many $? will it be 100% straight?)

3. Get a new frame.

I just don't want to throw good money after bad. I have a line on a SWB 1965 rolling chassis for 1k. Seems a little steep, but would solve my problem.

So, what do you guys think?

OK, go...............

[jtrichard]

looks like she got smacked pretty good some time in her life I would check around and see if there are any "GOOD" frame shops around and get a price its really not that bad I have straightened far worse in my yard .. the bend in the front member looks like it might be from a chain hooked on to pull it out of somewhere and they yanked it hard .. cant tell if the rust is just from the bends or if some one has had heat on there already trying to straighten it before if so they did not know what they were doing

[Captainfab]

Yeah, that's definitely bent. Looking at the pic of the drivers side, it looks like maybe the top flange was also bent but has been straightened? How are the gaps on all your front sheetmetal? If the gaps look good, it may have already been straightened. You might check with a shop with a frame machine and see what they would charge to just check the frame for straightness. If your frame is bent, you might consider that other frame. If you do decide to swap frames, be sure you have the paperwork you need to make it legal in your county or state, since the frame will have a different VIN than the cab.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

I would find another frame. They are out there. I just picked up a 2WD frame for $200.00 with a complete front suspension and rear axle, and I passed on a 4WD frame a month ago for $150.00 Just need to keep looking.

[ol_skool_chevy]

don't look at it...........I have done a lot of frame repair and your is not bad unless you just don't like it. But its not bad enough to effect the driving of the truck...

BUT, if you want to fix it..get the torch out, heat it up and get a port-a-power on it and bend it back...

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

BUT, if you want to fix it..get the torch out, heat it up and get a port-a-power on it and bend it back...

I don't want to add an expert opinion (because I am NOT) however I was surprised how much I straightened a El Camino frame with a MAPP gas torch, some long levers, a couple of small sledge hammers. The ram off my engine hoist.

Can you measure the frame now? From underneath of course. If its good. Be careful messing with that bend.

If you are having to have it straight. Try it yourself 1st. What do you have to lose?
my 2 cents.

[NONHOG]

Our own Lou shows a method here..... http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes...hing-the-frame

About 6:50 is where the frame work starts.

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

I don't want to add an expert opinion (because I am NOT) however I was surprised how much I straightened a El Camino frame with a MAPP gas torch, some long levers, a couple of small sledge hammers. The ram off my engine hoist.

Can you measure the frame now? From underneath of course. If its good. Be careful messing with that bend.

If you are having to have it straight. Try it yourself 1st. What do you have to lose?
my 2 cents.

I couldn't really get an accurate measure from underneath on the front of the truck, however, as I have the bed off right now I measured from a few points along the rear frame rails diagonally and found a 1/2" discrepancy. So that would mean that the whole rail needs to be pulled 1/4" back as well as the bent portions in the front. Looking more like a new frame, or maybe a new truck is in my future!

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yeah, that's definitely bent. Looking at the pic of the drivers side, it looks like maybe the top flange was also bent but has been straightened? How are the gaps on all your front sheetmetal? If the gaps look good, it may have already been straightened. You might check with a shop with a frame machine and see what they would charge to just check the frame for straightness. If your frame is bent, you might consider that other frame. If you do decide to swap frames, be sure you have the paperwork you need to make it legal in your county or state, since the frame will have a different VIN than the cab.

I think you're right about it having been straightened before. The places where it is bent are also a bit rusty looking. Probably from heating up to bend the metal and burning off the paint. Gaps are not too bad, but I don't think the PO did a proper job. Any idea of the paperwork needed to swap the frame? I thought a bill of sale would do.

[B_Bob]

Here's another pic from the passenger side. I think that the impact was more on that side as I also have inner fender damage there.

[padresag]

I would just check with a frame shop and find out for sure. opinions on these are just you know what and everyone has them. find out from someone who's trade it is and then take it from there.
ron

[BADAZ chevy guy]

[hotrod66]

if it was mine i would just swap it you have to take the body off to paint the frame properly any way. just swapped mine it wasn't bad and now its a short bed like i wanted to begin with.

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by hotrod66

if it was mine i would just swap it you have to take the body off to paint the frame properly any way. just swapped mine it wasn't bad and now its a short bed like i wanted to begin with.Attachment 1247248

If I can find one, I think that's the route I'll go. I've only found 1 for sale, but I think $1000 is too much. I'll keep looking though.

[Captainfab]

A bill of sale might be sufficient, but I would check with your local DMV regarding the issue of having different VINs on the frame and body. It may not be an issue in AZ, but it is better to find out for sure beforehand rather than after the fact and have an issue.

Originally Posted by B_Bob

I think you're right about it having been straightened before. The places where it is bent are also a bit rusty looking. Probably from heating up to bend the metal and burning off the paint. Gaps are not too bad, but I don't think the PO did a proper job. Any idea of the paperwork needed to swap the frame? I thought a bill of sale would do.

[B_Bob]

I've found a couple more frames for sale. I've decided to do the frame swap. Now the question is LWB or SWB.

The LWB I found is $200. Missing the bell housing member.

The SWB i2 $500. It's a full roller including steering box rear end, and wheels.

If I go with the LWB I'd have to make a trans crossmember for my T5, but everything else will just bolt on.

If I go with the SWB I'd have to have my bed cut down or source a new short box.

What do you guys think?

[B_Bob]

Here's some pics of the frames. Also, the SWB has been sand blasted, so less clean up work for me.

[KJSR]

What do you want?? I wanted a LWB so I could haul crap around the farm. If I was building a hot rod, it would be a SWB.....

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by KJSR

What do you want?? I wanted a LWB so I could haul crap around the farm. If I was building a hot rod, it would be a SWB.....

I'm just going for a simple cruiser. Nothing too fancy. It'll be lowered (not bagged) and have white 20" steelies, power steering, power disk brakes. I'm leaning toward SWB, but cringe at taking on cutting down the bed.

[hotrod66]

yea i hear you about the bed cutting. as-long as you measure 2 or 3 times it wont be bad dont forget space a-few inches out and cool your welds with compressed air every tack. i have a short bed but its pretty rough. but i have nothing to loose so at some point in time i will cut down my long bed. if you can patch sheet-metal you will be okay.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Not to hijack of steal your thread but, in short does anyone know the difference between a 64-65-66 frame or are they Exactly the same? I found one with the carrier bearing hangs...My 66 stands up

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

Not to hijack of steal your thread but, in short does anyone know the difference between a 64-65-66 frame or are they Exactly the same? I found one with the carrier bearing hangs...My 66 stands up

Good question. I guess I just assumed they were the same. My 65 mounts to the bottom as well.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

Not to hijack of steal your thread but, in short does anyone know the difference between a 64-65-66 frame or are they Exactly the same? I found one with the carrier bearing hangs...My 66 stands up

DANGER!!! Thread derailment!!!

[hotrod66]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

Not to hijack of steal your thread but, in short does anyone know the difference between a 64-65-66 frame or are they Exactly the same? I found one with the carrier bearing hangs...My 66 stands up

65 66 are the same ,63 64 are the same the difference is track bar mount on the frame, due to mounts on rear axle 66,65 axles have cast-in track bar mounts 63,64 are welded to axle tube closer to the passenger side

[Captainfab]

The '63-'66 frames are basically the same, with a few minor differences. There are 2 different 2 piece driveshafts. There is the light duty driveshaft which has the whimpy carrier bearing that hangs from the top of the trailing arm crossmember. Then there is the heavy duty driveshaft which has larger diameter tube driveshafts and the much better carrier bearing that mounts on a bracket on the bottom of the trailing arm crossmember. IMO it is the light duty driveshaft and carrier bearing that is responsible for so many truck owners hating the 2 piece driveshaft and wanting to go to a one piece.

Sorry for the hijack B_Bob