My 52 GMC Build

[99 to Life]

no sweat man, if I run 60 psi up front on my 2600 lbs bags its a little bouncy. I run a little too much air in my rear sometimes too, could def use about a 1inch cup for those but its still comfy when I get it set right. Just make sure you got some room up front, almost a finger width would be good so your bag doesn't rub. I'd highly rec a 2600 up front, esp if you drive it and it feels stiff or bouncy.

Coming along great though. Driving them is fun, but the bugs can sometimes keep lingering!!!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

no sweat man, if I run 60 psi up front on my 2600 lbs bags its a little bouncy. I run a little too much air in my rear sometimes too, could def use about a 1inch cup for those but its still comfy when I get it set right. Just make sure you got some room up front, almost a finger width would be good so your bag doesn't rub. I'd highly rec a 2600 up front, esp if you drive it and it feels stiff or bouncy.

Coming along great though. Driving them is fun, but the bugs can sometimes keep lingering!!!

That is something I have never really given a lot of though to. Dialing in ride height and pressure, etc.

Is there a spec for the bags? For example X brand bag, 2600lbs, work best when height is between 4" and 6".

Does that makes sense??

[99 to Life]

Unfortunately I don't think there is that magic number you are looking for, perhaps there is if everyone chimed in and gave exact specs. but that is the number one issue, not everyone has the same set up. For example, I used s10 chassis with stock lowers, angle cut bag cups, airlift 2600 bags and about 3" or less with my body off frame.

So the frame swap stuff I feel will be a little over the place, M2 kits on stock frames might yield more consistent numbers.

The key is to have as little pressure as you can get at your desired ride height, the 2600lb bags let you get same height as a 2500 with less pressure. One thing that is common is the pressure numbers. I hear a lot of 60 up front and 40ish in back. So I'd say start with 2-3" bag cups and cut down if necessary.

I was unsure as well, having no idea what pressure I'd be at for every inch the truck went up. Its going to be a lot of trial and error and really isn't an exact answer all the time. but that is the beauty of it, all the variables, not a dead set rule book all the time.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

Unfortunately I don't think there is that magic number you are looking for, perhaps there is if everyone chimed in and gave exact specs. but that is the number one issue, not everyone has the same set up. For example, I used s10 chassis with stock lowers, angle cut bag cups, airlift 2600 bags and about 3" or less with my body off frame.

So the frame swap stuff I feel will be a little over the place, M2 kits on stock frames might yield more consistent numbers.

The key is to have as little pressure as you can get at your desired ride height, the 2600lb bags let you get same height as a 2500 with less pressure. One thing that is common is the pressure numbers. I hear a lot of 60 up front and 40ish in back. So I'd say start with 2-3" bag cups and cut down if necessary.

I was unsure as well, having no idea what pressure I'd be at for every inch the truck went up. Its going to be a lot of trial and error and really isn't an exact answer all the time. but that is the beauty of it, all the variables, not a dead set rule book all the time.

Thanks for the info. Always fun to learn and figure out something new. I will definitely keep you posted on what I find!!

[Chance48]

Good info guys....hope that works for ya lowers. I'm glad I went with 2600's thanks to you, now I just gotta get them in and adjusted properly.

[lower50's]

Thanks for that guys!! I feel much more confident in my setup now. If I have to redo for some reason ill modify for 2600 bags. So even with all the variables involved if someone built 2 identical trucks the pressures should be the same right?

[lower50's]

Here is a brain scratcher question: What is this? I have been looking everywhere for it. It was mounted on the running board of my 1950 gmc I had before my '52. I'll have the answer tomorrow and good news.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Here is a brain scratcher question: What is this? I have been looking everywhere for it. It was mounted on the running board of my 1950 gmc I had before my '52. I'll have the answer tomorrow and good news.

I recognize the housing, it's a universal truck style license lamp, my old C3500 had that as a rear plate lamp ... why it would have been on a running board? Some kind of truck numbering or license that was supposed to be illuminated??

[YukonXL04]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I recognize the housing, it's a universal truck style license lamp, my old C3500 had that as a rear plate lamp ... why it would have been on a running board? Some kind of truck numbering or license that was supposed to be illuminated??

Someone added running board lighting? lol maybe they wanted to see the step at night

[RockinKees]

The only thing I can come up with is this:

But Minions is probably not the right answer??

[oldman3]

Good one Kees...Jim

[Advanced Design]

I am going with what Kees said.

[70chev383]

Sweet build!

[Dieselwrencher]

I also was going to say an old license plate lamp housing.

[lower50's]

You are ALL correct!! It is a 1949-1950 CHEVY LICENSE PLATE LIGHT.
I have been looking for this for quite a while. This past weekend we went and visited my father in law. Having a beer in his garage he pulls out a old box and says do you want these? He said he has been holding onto them for some reason for about 30 years. He never knew I was looking for them.

[Dieselwrencher]

What are the odds of that huh? Cool deal!

[Advanced Design]

Score! It was meant to be.

[99 to Life]

great coincidence! I must say, I'v searched and bought and built these for the last 5 years and I haven't ever seen those. Very cool to learn about the little details.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

What are the odds of that huh? Cool deal!

Ya I could not believe it.

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Score! It was meant to be.

Sure sounds like it.

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

great coincidence! I must say, I'v searched and bought and built these for the last 5 years and I haven't ever seen those. Very cool to learn about the little details.

It was cool. Now I have no idea what kind of chevy. I searched for the lights and searched vehicles. I can't find any thing else about them, but they where from a '49-50 chev.

[lower50's]

All ready to bleed the master, then the brakes. Fingers crossed for no leaks.

[Chance48]

Nice find! Man you're getting close....

[lower50's]

Thanks Chance!!

So Friday eve my GF and I started to bleed the brakes. Yup Friday night date in the garage LOL. Bleed master then bleed brakes, down-up, down-up. No bubbles all good. No peddle no good. Call it a night. Sat bleed master again finger over port method got some bubbles. Bleed brakes I can get peddle with 3 pumps. Monday eve pressure bleed, pump up crack line. Got bubbles Now I get peddle on second pump. I am thinking because everything is new there are bubbles hiding. I'll try again Tue eve. I have no leaks so that part is good.

[99 to Life]

I figured you would have a good handle on your brakes, not that you don't. I refrained from saying, I had no luck bleeding my master while it was on the truck. Not saying that that is your problem, but having it one the bench, you can def make sure you're pushing the plunger completely in. Maybe try that, but if your getting fluid to your lines, its a good sign. I'v had two sep times not get fluid fully to lines and I took MC off and bench bled, solved problem both times. No leaks is good, Im sure its just a bleeding issue.

[mooseknuckles]

the problem is those plastic fittings on the bleeder lines. they leak past the threads. I had to make up some steel lines using some tube nuts and some scrap steel brake line to get my master bled properly.

[ptc]

I saw these online..... I always heard them called "thumblights" for some weird reason.... lol





Bleeding with a hydroboost - is it really that easy? how does the fluid get out to all the corners if they arent opened up too?