Body roll?

[GMC-YA68]

Need some input.

New 2.5 lift (all spring) with extended pitman arm (additional drop)
New poly body mounts / transmission / transfer case mounts
New tie rod ends / drag link ends
New wheel bearings / new upper and lower ball joints.
New close range steering box from RedHead. 15:1 ratio
New intermediate shaft. New U-joint and rag joint.
Hydroboost set up using the flow control valve from factory power steering pump.
Alignment looks good and camber / caster looks good by just using a 3' level.

I am having a horrible time keeping this thing pointed forward. A small bump in the road causes this thing to dip / dive / steer any way it wants which leads me to swaying all over and I go back and forth like a rally car driver on the steering wheel just in order to keep the thing in my lane. It is not safe. Even letting off the gas at a normal cruising speed causes it to do all this. It is NOT death wobble. Everything up front is brand new and tight.

Even swapped the steering box out with a 18:1 from RedHead and still doing the same thing.

Any ideas?

[ls1nova71]

Does it have a steering damper on it?

[67swb72klb]

What do you have your toe set at?

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Does it have a steering damper on it?

No, I don't have one installed yet. I have one that I bought with my lift but haven't put it on.

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

What do you have your toe set at?

This I am not sure of. The (ma' and pa') place that did my exhaust system said they took it somewhere to get aligned for me. I didn't recieve an official receipt showing all the specs. Should I take somewhere else for a 2nd look?

And on the 4wd's there is a ball joint style camber adjuster bushing. I left mine how they were. There are also shims to use between my knuckle and spindle but I do not have anything like that installed.

Is there a simple / at home way to check all this?

[warbucket]

I wonder if the drop pitman arm has an affect on it. I have a 2 1/2" lift, 33's and stock pitman arm and have no problems.

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by warbucket

I wonder if the drop pitman arm has an affect on it. I have a 2 1/2" lift, 33's and stock pitman arm and have no problems.

I'm going to throw the stocker pitman arm back on this weekend and put my steering stabilizer on and see if there is a change.

If not, I am going down to one of the local scam shops and have them print me out an alignment report.

[Blazerowner]

Might be some help in here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560774

[hemi43]

The steering link that goes from the pitman arm to the knuckle arm MUST be parallel to the ground. This is what your dropped pitman arm is supposed to accomplish. If the steering link is on an angle to the ground, then it will try to turn the front wheels slightly as you go over uneven terrain.
Like a previous poster mentioned, check your toe setting. You can do this at home easily with a couple straight pieces of wood or aluminum a tape measure and a couple of Guys. If you have ANY toe out, the the thing will be impossible to keep on the road. Aim for 1/8-1/4 inch of toe in.
Do you know what offset your front rims are? Another contributing factor to crappy handling is too much scrub radius from having too much negative offset.
You'll get it figured out.
Dan

[cleszkie]

What is the ratio on a stock steering box? Perhaps your new box and the other one you tried out are making the steering too "twitchy" (small movement of steering wheel results in big movement of wheels). If that is the case, you will have a hard time keeping the steering wheel still enough to maintain a straight line down the road. I had this issue on another truck of mine. Totally undriveable until I replaced the steering box with a "slower" one that required a lot more movement of the steering wheel to turn the wheels.

Regarding your hydroboost system, I think I recall replacing my stock flow control valve on my pump with a special valve that was provided in the hydroboost kit I bought. I don't know if the replacement valve was needed in order provide the correct hose fitting, or if it actualyy modified the flow for use in a hydroboost system.

[GMC-YA68]

Stock steering is 18:1 and that is currently the box I have installed right now (new one).

My aftermarket pitman arm puts my drag link dead even/horizontal so I don't think there is an issue there.

I'll grab a couple of 2x4s and slap them on the sides and take some measurements

[GMC-YA68]

There was barely some toe out. Adjusted it and drove it over to LS1Nova's. We came up with around 1/2" toe in with simple tape measure mod. (Probably a bit too much) He agreed it was very odd feeling when he drove it as well. Thought it could have been too tight of ball joints because the steering is not wanting to correct itself back to zero (You turn it - it stays turned) I took everything back apart tonight. Re-torqued it per factory specs, even with the spanner wrench/socket for the sleeve in the upper knuckle. It did loosen the knuckles up a bit but still seems fishy.

I am going to take it to a firestone or something and get a print out of all the alignment specs. Maybe something will show there.

I am up for any other suggestions as well. I am about to put all the old ball joints back on it!! Ha

[87Skier]

I seem to recall hearing about people having similar symptoms because some rivets worked a little loose. I think it was someone around the steering box. Wish I could remember where I read that.

[hemi43]

Usually if your steering wheel does not return, it's because of two things. One, there's binding with some component in the front end, or second , there is not enough caster. Caster is not really adjustable, so I would look for binding somewhere.
I think I was the one that posted about the rivets coming loose on my front driver's spring mount, as well as my steering box. It made the truck a bit more squirly, but I was still able to drive it at 70MPH with no problems.

[asolde]

I was going to say the same thing about your steering box and your pitman arm. Make sure they are torque to specification.

[67Steven]

You can adjust caster with steel tapered shims in between the spring pack and axle perch.

My Blazer was a wandering soul. I had to adjust mine just 2 degrees, and it was night and day difference- from tight grip to one finger driving, and no stabilizer required. (I have added one since to minimize the feedback from stutter-bumps)

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by 67Steven

You can adjust caster with steel tapered shims in between the spring pack and axle perch.

My Blazer was a wandering soul. I had to adjust mine just 2 degrees, and it was night and day difference- from tight grip to one finger driving, and no stabilizer required. (I have added one since to minimize the feedback from stutter-bumps)

Where did you get your shims from?

[67Steven]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

Where did you get your shims from?

You probably need to check what factory setting is for caster, and then verify what you have installed and go from there. You may need more or less.

I think D44 is 4-6 degrees? Put a degree level on the flat top of the knuckle and see where you're at.

Here is where I grabbed mine. Get steel, aluminum will squish and break apart:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Suspensio...t_pn=R/ERE1464

This cured the wander and gave a nice return to center on mine. If you have to force yours back to center, you probably have other issues, but I would check where the caster is to rule it out.

[GMC-YA68]

well.....

1st pic is top of the driver side (me under truck looking out)
2nd pic is top of pass side (me under truck looking out)'

I'd say it looks to be where it should. You guys agree?

[67Steven]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

well.....

1st pic is top of the driver side (me under truck looking out)
2nd pic is top of pass side (me under truck looking out)'

I'd say it looks to be where it should. You guys agree?

I think it looks okay, I have mine at 8, but it's a 60. And don't take my word as gospel for the degrees on a D44, I was going off memory!

I know it's a pain, but maybe start pulling links off and see if something has or is creating a bind?

Would it be possible to drop the drag link and see if there is a bind while turning the steering wheel?

[Blazerowner]

For reference. I thought it looked negative at first but I think it looks positive.

[GMC-YA68]

Here are pics looking at it the correct way... Is this negative?

[GMC-YA68]

any here is my pinion angle at the moment.

[ls1nova71]

Thats about 5 or 6 degrees positive so you should be good there. Did you ever check the air in your tires? Under inflated tires can cause it to not want to return also. Are the ball joints not in a bind, wheels turn left and right easily with tie rods unhooked?

[GMC-YA68]

Tires are good. All just under 60psi and rated for 66 (max).

The knuckles (with the wheels/tires off) turn ok by hand. They don't slam back and forth from a quick hit by any means. I have to push/pull on them to get them where I want them. Is that still too tight?

[67Steven]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

Tires are good. All just under 60psi and rated for 66 (max).

The knuckles (with the wheels/tires off) turn ok by hand. They don't slam back and forth from a quick hit by any means. I have to push/pull on them to get them where I want them. Is that still too tight?

Yes, that is positive caster. I think using a spring gauge you should be around 25 pounds to move the knuckle/spindle, but again, off memory.