Crankcase ventilation using old tins???

[SuperCtruck]

I'm about to take the plunge and build a 355 Chevy small block For my 1964 c10. I want to keep the old school look so I'm going to remove script valve covers, 4 barrel intake with oil fill tube etc.... Off of my 283 and put those on the 355 to keep the original stock look. I've been reading alot on crankcase ventilation and I'll be missing my rear Vent on back of 283 block by going with the 350 since they vented off the VC.
Any suggestions or tips please?? Thanks

[geezer#99]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366830

[SuperCtruck]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366830

Yup, I even read your thread!! The problem is I have no one with the CNC machine are anyone to make that part for me. Looks like I have to bite the bullet and get some aftermarket PCV valve covers or build the 283

[geezer#99]

It's only an info link.
Other ways to do it.
You can get grommet/baffles to go in the back of the cover and use an inline pcv.

[scuderia]

planning on running script covers on my '68 327. been thinking I'm going to do something like this. If you can weld it's a pretty cool option.

[Brad54]

Get a '60's sealed oil fill tube with a PCV port on it... any late '60s SBC fill tube from a muscle car supplier, with a screw-on fill cap.
At the base of the front of the carb is a PCV port. Get a screw-in PCV port and plug it in to the carb, and at the oil fill tube, get a brass barbed nipple, and run a hose from the nipple to the PCV.

At the back of the intake, it'll require a little fabrication:
If it's an aftermarket aluminum intake, there are usually ribs on the underside of the intake, between the carb pad and the distributor.

Find a shop that can weld aluminum. Take a piece of 1/8-inch aluminum plate (or so), drill a SMALL hole in it, and then weld the plate across two of those ribs to make a sealed compartment on the underside of the intake--sealed, except for that small hole.

On the top of the intake, above that compartment, drill and tap a hold for a barbed brass nipple. (actually, drill and tap the hole BEFORE you weld the plate underneath, so you don't fill the compartment with aluminum chips).

On your air cleaner, put a barbed nipple or some other kind of port on the INBOARD side of the air filter. You've seen this on engines with the PCV in the valve covers. One of them runs a rubber hose to the air cleaner.

Here's how it'll work:
The PCV will draw from the front of the carb, at it's base. It will suck through the sealed oil fill tube at the front of the engine.
The column of air will draw through the lifter valley, up through the little hole in the sealed chamber, through the nipple, through the hose to the air cleaner housing, where it will draw FILTERED outside air.

I ran this system on the crate 350 in my Suburban for over 80,000 miles.

Make sure you have a PCV that flows in the right direction: They are designed as push or pull. If you have the wrong one, it'll fill your air cleaner housing with oil.

There used to be a diagram of a stock '62 car "California" sealed PCV system in the YearOne catalogs. Do a web search for "Closed PCV System" for '60s Chevys.

-Brad

[SuperCtruck]

I'm running a quadrajet carb and cast iron intake

[SuperCtruck]

Originally Posted by scuderia

planning on running script covers on my '68 327. been thinking I'm going to do something like this. If you can weld it's a pretty cool option.

These look awesome!!!!
I thought about going this route too but unsure if these are baffled inside or does a rubber grommet and then filter cap press in on top? (Oil spitting out top)!
Delmo makes these unsure if they're still being produced by him?

[SuperCtruck]

Originally Posted by Brad54

Get a '60's sealed oil fill tube with a PCV port on it... any late '60s SBC fill tube from a muscle car supplier, with a screw-on fill cap.
At the base of the front of the carb is a PCV port. Get a screw-in PCV port and plug it in to the carb, and at the oil fill tube, get a brass barbed nipple, and run a hose from the nipple to the PCV.

At the back of the intake, it'll require a little fabrication:
If it's an aftermarket aluminum intake, there are usually ribs on the underside of the intake, between the carb pad and the distributor.

Find a shop that can weld aluminum. Take a piece of 1/8-inch aluminum plate (or so), drill a SMALL hole in it, and then weld the plate across two of those ribs to make a sealed compartment on the underside of the intake--sealed, except for that small hole.

On the top of the intake, above that compartment, drill and tap a hold for a barbed brass nipple. (actually, drill and tap the hole BEFORE you weld the plate underneath, so you don't fill the compartment with aluminum chips).

On your air cleaner, put a barbed nipple or some other kind of port on the INBOARD side of the air filter. You've seen this on engines with the PCV in the valve covers. One of them runs a rubber hose to the air cleaner.

Here's how it'll work:
The PCV will draw from the front of the carb, at it's base. It will suck through the sealed oil fill tube at the front of the engine.
The column of air will draw through the lifter valley, up through the little hole in the sealed chamber, through the nipple, through the hose to the air cleaner housing, where it will draw FILTERED outside air.

I ran this system on the crate 350 in my Suburban for over 80,000 miles.

Make sure you have a PCV that flows in the right direction: They are designed as push or pull. If you have the wrong one, it'll fill your air cleaner housing with oil.

There used to be a diagram of a stock '62 car "California" sealed PCV system in the YearOne catalogs. Do a web search for "Closed PCV System" for '60s Chevys.

-Brad

Wow great info for everyone!!! Being that I'm running a cast iron quad carbed set up, can this design you have still be achieved? Thanks

[SuperCtruck]

This style fill tube??

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by SuperCtruck

This style fill tube??

Yeah, that's the fill tube you want. (or a stock black one).

I don't see how you would create the "chamber" under the cast iron intake, for the air cleaner port to feed from.

I used an Edelbrock C3B intake for mine--aluminum.
You can find used spread bore Edelbrocks that'll work with your Q-jet if that's what carb you're using.

-Brad

[frankslagoon]

Originally Posted by SuperCtruck

This style fill tube??

this is how mine looks But I don't see how you'll vent it in the back.

[Mackie]

I've always heard that venting from the front side of the lifter valley to the back side is less effective than air drawn into one valve cover and out the other, which routes down thru the crankcase.

[frankslagoon]

Originally Posted by Mackie

I've always heard that venting from the front side of the lifter valley to the back side is less effective than air drawn into one valve cover and out the other, which routes down thru the crankcase.

Could be but look how clean this motor is inside. I would have preferred to pull from the back where the oil seperater is but seems to work good this way. any, we don't have vented covers.

[Tazimafied]

This is what I am going to use when I build the 350 I have set aside for my '66. It comes with a chrome fill tube and breather. I am going to remove the made in USA emblem and paint it the correct green along with the block and aluminum heads to give a stock 327 appearance. then I will top it off with these.

[dracko]

I have bone stock 1968 327 with the oil fill tube in the intake, the cap just pushes on and has oiled mesh in it for filtering. That's all it has for engine ventilation, is there a reason you couldn't just do that? Is more crankcase ventilation needed? The guy had been driving the impala it came out of everyday for many years with no issues.

[scuderia]

Originally Posted by dracko

I have bone stock 1968 327 with the oil fill tube in the intake, the cap just pushes on and has oiled mesh in it for filtering. That's all it has for engine ventilation, is there a reason you couldn't just do that? Is more crankcase ventilation needed? The guy had been driving the impala it came out of everyday for many years with no issues.

what valve covers?

[65 C20]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=dino&page=8

Go to post 178 to see how Dino did it.

Thanks to 60-66

[frankslagoon]

Originally Posted by dracko

I have bone stock 1968 327 with the oil fill tube in the intake, the cap just pushes on and has oiled mesh in it for filtering. That's all it has for engine ventilation, is there a reason you couldn't just do that? Is more crankcase ventilation needed? The guy had been driving the impala it came out of everyday for many years with no issues.

I would almost bet there is a tube or line comin up in back by the dist. There should be if the valve covers or non vented.

[dracko]

The valve covers have no holes in them. Just rebuilt the engine and there is no PCV by the distributor. I'll post pics when home from work.

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by dracko

I have bone stock 1968 327 with the oil fill tube in the intake, the cap just pushes on and has oiled mesh in it for filtering. That's all it has for engine ventilation, is there a reason you couldn't just do that? Is more crankcase ventilation needed? The guy had been driving the impala it came out of everyday for many years with no issues.

It can be done, but in my experience just running a vented oil fill cap tends to result in oil mist and seepage around the fill cap.
It never says clean.

-Brad

[Mackie]

Just like your house in the summer you get better "draft" with 2 windows open. Just the vented push cap on the fill tube isn't enough. A `68 327 should have a PCV fitting on the drivers side of the dist hole and a hose to the carb base. Earlier small blocks had a road draft tube that came out here and went down the back of the block.
The P stands for positive where the engine vacuum ensures ventilation, not just the breeze passing across the bottom of the road draft tube.

[frankslagoon]

I was grabben acouple dists last summer at the yard and I took a pic of this 64 impala set up. ya gotta look close but you can see the PCV line comin from the back of the motor to the carb base

[cv65]

If you have hole at rear of block or{draft tube} you can use a vented fill cap and one of these kits for rear, not as good as cross flow imho.http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-Che...25.m3641.l6368
took another read of thread and see you dont have a hole at rear of block ,I would go with something like Scuderia sugested.

[dracko]

Thanks for the info Mackie, being a firefighter I have a good idea of what positive ventilation is. I'm simply saying that my '68 327 is only vented through the oil fill tube.

Maybe 1968 was an anomaly because it was the last year of the 327? I can see now what the flat boss near the distributor is for, but the hole was never machined in the block for a PCV. Prob be better off with the PCV valve but I plan to run the engine as is.

heres some pics. These are the original valve covers but i'll be running some scripted covers.