72 "converted" 4x4 sold for $79,000 at BJ

[Wasted Income]

Nice ride. Looks like it just rolled out of the showroom.

[davepl]

A couple of other points:

I chromed the mirrors. I didn't skimp, I chromed -each- little piece, wave-lock-washer, everything. Remember that chrome shops have a minimum fee per piece ($50 at some!). Now you've got mirrors with 30 parts. That adds up. But you could paint them.

I rebuilt the transmission. It ran just fine in the last car it was in, I could have just stuffed it in. Same with the rear end. If I didn't have it torn down, I wouldn't have known one bearing race was turning and needed to be machined and sleeved (all of which costs money).

Have you ever seen a brand new frame? They're smooth, not pitted. Do you really bodywork the frame? Only if you want it smooth like new before you powdercoat it. But you could just pressure wash and POR-15 it.

Do you need new side glass? Depends if you're OK with 40 years of winding up and down scratches and weather. You can save money by re-using your old glass. I reused my back glass.

I mentioned we dyno'd the motor, on an engine dyno, before installing it. Now I know authoritatively how it runs at every load/RPM combination we could come up with. This revealed that with today's gas it needed more initial timing. But then you need to lock out some of the mechanical. So you need a guy with an old Sun distributor machine and the knowledge of how to use it and how to lock out some mechanical advance. I sure don't have a distributor machine, let alone a dyno, so that all costs money.

But you could just set the timing to where it doesn't ping and the mixtures to where it idles nice and be close. And you could just drive it with two feet until it warms up.

I didn't just put in a relay for the headlights, I installed a multiple-relay, multiple-ballast, full 4-beam HID system. But you could run Sylvania headlights.

I have an original body FM radio upgraded with contemporary electronics. But you could run a Custom Autosound. And so on...

So for every element of the restoration, if you ask yourself "What would I genuinely need to do to make this part or system as close to or better than new", things add up. But if your "good enough" level is lower, it saves a ton of money.

The perfect is the enemy of the good. And I'm still going to drive it like a truck. But the only think I'll haul will be babies in cloth diapers (no pins) and pillow top mattresses (upside down only). In a year or two I'll get a little more casual with it, but I want to enjoy the fleeting "new truck" smell and feel for a while.

[Coley]

Very nice truck Dave!...very nicely done.
Quick questions:
-Are you going to add a tilt at any point? (first years for the tilt was '70 I think?...)
-Is this the truck that you might add the A/pressure gauge? (do you have air bag suspension in it?)
all Good
Coley

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Coley

Very nice truck Dave!...very nicely done.
Quick questions:
-Are you going to add a tilt at any point? (first years for the tilt was '70 I think?...)
-Is this the truck that you might add the A/pressure gauge? (do you have air bag suspension in it?)
all Good
Coley

Yes, it already has tilt. It didn't originally, but I'm tall and the new seat foam is full, and I kind of needed it. But you could slouch :-)

This is the truck I want the air pressure gauge for. I have the GM compressor. I was going to use a stock air reservoir but now I'm thinking unless it's NOS I don't trust a rusty old tank.

I have the shocks and the Hadley horns, all GMC accessories. One reason it was important to get all NOS for that is so that the gauge and regulator are "new" when I mount them under dash.

[Coley]

Originally Posted by davepl

Yes, it already has tilt. It didn't originally, but I'm tall and the new seat foam is full, and I kind of needed it. But you could slouch :-)

This is the truck I want the air pressure gauge for. I have the GM compressor. I was going to use a stock air reservoir but now I'm thinking unless it's NOS I don't trust a rusty old tank.

I have the shocks and the Hadley horns, all GMC accessories. One reason it was important to get all NOS for that is so that the gauge and regulator are "new" when I mount them under dash.

So you are after NOS on the a/p gauge?

Coley

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Coley

So you are after NOS on the a/p gauge?

Coley

Ideally. As long as it's accurate and the face isn't faded/worn, that's all I care. Email me at davepl@davepl.com if you're interested in selling the one in pic!

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by davepl

I chromed the mirrors. I didn't skimp, I chromed -each- little piece, wave-lock-washer, everything. Remember that chrome shops have a minimum fee per piece ($50 at some!). Now you've got mirrors with 30 parts. That adds up. But you could paint them.

I think you and I should switch user names, even though I'm not named dave.


Edit:

Originally Posted by davepl

Email me at davepl@davepl.com

Nevermind, it would be hard to change your website too. lol

[davepl]

This is a better example of a finished engine compartment from my other car, since the truck one was incomplete. Gotta get the little tape stickers in place on the brake lines, with the correct colored tube nuts, and so on.

And I am totally casual compared to the NSCR Corvette guys! Wait'll those guys run out of Corvettes and start restoring our trucks :-)

[BrianG]

I agree with what you are saying DavePL. It always annoys me when this subject comes up and there are a bunch of posts that say that 'they' could build the same truck for $15,000 (or whatever, just a number) and seem to hint that everyone else should be able to also. I've done a lot to my truck, but there are a lot of things that I either didn't have the tools, shop, talent, or whatever, to be able to do myself. So, it cost me a whole lot more that $15,000 to build my truck. I relate this back to buying or building a house. I built my own and saved a ton. I was fortunate enough to have the know how to do so though. I guess, even with my house, I hired out things like the foundation, excavation, drywall and insulation. So even there, I could have saved even more if I were to do those things myself, but then I'd need to buy some heavy equipment to do the excavation, and learn a new trade to do the drywall, etc. The point is, I did 'most' of it myself and saved a bunch of money. I however, don't go out and tell people not to pay the 'going rate' for a new house because they could build it for much cheaper. Truth is, most people couldn't build it themselves, so they pay to have someone else do it. Not that much different than a vehicle. Anyhow... I agree with what DavePL is saying, but can almost guarantee that this issue will come up again and again, with some differences in opinion on what a vehicle is actually worth.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Anyhow... I agree with what DavePL is saying, but can almost guarantee that this issue will come up again and again, with some differences in opinion on what a vehicle is actually worth.

I like your analogy - I did a ton of work on my own home but don't feel compelled to make other people feel stupid because they "paid retail" for their home.

For the vast majority of us this is a hobby vehicle, not our work truck or primary driver (for some it is, I know that), so it's truly a first-world argument, as they say.

I also, though, understand the instinct - no one wants to scrimp and save and bust knuckles for years so that some rich trust fund baby can write a check at Barrett Jackson without caring what it cost and wind up with a nicer truck.

As someone who's been laying under mine getting dirty for 3 years, I pose no such risk!

[dubds10]

Dave any pics of the truck with the stock rims and caps? Or just the newer rims.

I agree on the build detail and amount of $ invested, it's just rare to see them sell anywhere near covering the actual costs to build. Hard to compare the ones at BJ but I know a few people who've gone and reported back saying even the top end builds weren't that great. Of course everything looks great on TV and in photos lol I don't think many will come on saying they can build one for $30g, but I've seen complete frame off down to stock resto builds sell for less. We've had a few in my family and despite the $ and detail it's always what the local market will bare.

[jeffahart]

Well, I've got well over 10K into my truck and it still basically looks the same, except for the wheels. I guess if you know what your looking at you'll see the axles are changed. But, I usually don't dig too long for parts. My life needs to move forward. When I decide to do something I generally take some time to research then I quickly tire of looking for the ultimate deal and move forward with a purchase, price be damned..... forward momentum so to speak. I spent way more time trying to locate a good deal on axles than I had on any whole vehicle purchase. So, I finally bit the bullet and spent. Now I'm happy and the project moves forward. I expect to loose my A$$ when I sell it.

Lets see:
Radiator, water pump, fuel pump, dash pad, AAW wire kit, wheels, axles, seat cover, retro sound, door handles...... I mean the receipt folder is bloated... it needs to go on a freekin diet. I ain't even close to body work, I first have to do: Engine, tranny, transfer, bedwood, body rubber... blaa blaa blaa

It's gonna be waaaay over $25K when I'm done.

$25,000

[cypressbog]

From reading all the posts here and other threads about the cost of trucks and parts, I guess I'm in the minority here. I fully support the ever escalating prices of these trucks.

[CastIron]

I think the biggest trick to saving money while still doing things the right way is finding the right people to help you. There is a lot of good auto body & repair technicians out there who love doing work on the side. If you're lucky enough to find somebody like that it is a great way to save money on labor.

There's a couple things about professional shops that people may not realize. Just because they are expensive and have a good reputation doesn't mean they always do good work. There's always some guys that will take any shortcut they think they can get away with. And a lot of shops will employ people without any formal training. You might be spending $100+ per hour to get your vehicle worked on but the person doing the actual work may only be getting paid $10 per hour.

And just for the record, my pickup is a mostly original, unrestored '69 C1500. I've had it 15 years and have about $5000 into it, including the purchase price. I really only bought it to haul things and have put about 7k miles on since I bought it. It has spent 99% of its like under cover and while the paint is in decent original shape there is a little surface rust on the frame and suspension. I don't really have plans for a full restoration. My plans are to make it safer, more efficient, and more fun to drive.