DIY LS swap on a budget

[Green67Stepper]

I have finally got to the point where i'm ready to start collecting parts and i think i have nailed down for the most part what all i'm going with, so i figured it was time to start (another...) LS swap thread.

My goal for this swap is to keep the install simple with good parts, but not over the top upgrades, with a lower budget in mind.

For reference, my truck is a '67 with a 250/3speed.

Here is what i have in mind right now.

Motor/Trans: 5.3l/4l60E (found a guy in Memphis that sells them all the time, should be able to get a combo with harness and acc. for around $1000-1200)

Engine Perches/Mounts/Adaptor Plate: i'm going to use all of the CPP stuff for this. ($275-300)

Shifter: planning to get a automatic floor shifter from American Shifter ($275-300) and just keep my factory steering column for now.

Headers: Speed Engineering LS swap headers ($175)

Wiring Harness: Right now planning to use Modern Vintage Systems, but did find a guy locally that builds them too for a little cheaper. ($350-550)

Radiator: getting an Champion aluminum 4 row from AZProPerformance ($300)

Efans: going to find some take outs from an other newer LS car/truck ($50-100)

Exhaust: TBD

Tuning: TBD

Fuel Tank: either going get an LMC LS swap Tank, or may go the Jeep Wrangler tank route. ( still need to do some more research.)

Fuel System/Lines: TBD (need suggestions on easy options)

Oil Pan: right now i'm planning to run the Holley LS swap oil pan from AZProPerformance, but i think i can find a cheaper option, just need to research some more ($400)

Gauges: undecided, i would like to just go Dakota Digital, but i'm not dishing out $800 right now for gauges. I'd like to make something work for around ($300-400)

Trans Crossmember: re-use factory one and drill new holes.

i dont doubt i have forgotten something so any and all advice is welcomed. i'll update parts and prices as I get parts in.

[Matt Cramer]

A couple of places where you can shave a bit of money off this:

- You can fab adapter plates with a drill press and chop saw. The '73-up engine stands are supposed to give a bit more clearance.

- The stock radiator will work. Use 2005 Silverado radiator hoses.

- The factory shifter bolts right up if you put the motor in the stock location.

- A stock truck oil pan will hang a little below the crossmember but clears everything.

- Dakota Digital has a speedometer drive that will run the stock speedometer.

[Low Elco]

All you need to know is here-

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html

[MalibuSSwagon]

Wow nice budget, I did my whole swap running and driving for $1000. Some things that helped.

Bought a wrecked and rotted Silverado for $800 (when scrap was bringing good money, now I could pickup 5 right now for 4-500). 149k 5.3L with new starter, alternator and water pump. Parted rest of truck to bring me to zero on engine.

Re-did original harness from instructions on lt1swap.com to use Silverado fuseblock, and interconnect to stock OEM harness. Cost maybe $20 with new harness tape and some connectors.

Car-shop 1" setback plates, this was done in a SBC equipped square so your results may vary. And I don't see the value in making your own plates when you can have them at your door for $55, with hardware. I like the 1" setback plates because they place the bellhousing flange in the stock SBC position, and then most things just line. Stock hoses work on original radiator, transmission linkage lines up as mentioned.

Exhaust, I used what stock manifolds fit the truck, turned out a 06 Silverado passenger manifold and a 2000 Camaro drivers manifold fit quite well with my combination. You can buy laser cut flanges for most stock LS manifolds on ebay, after that it was just a matter of making adapter pipes to connect the exhaust to my existing dual system. A friend of mine actually chopped up a y-pipe from the parts Silverado to make them, it was mandrel bent 2.5" stainless so why not use it? There is a multitude of header options available too, from $250ish to the high zoot big $$$ options.

Oil pan, I used the stock truck pan. Fits good, unless you are slammed shouldn't have ground clearance problems. I am running 2.5" spindles and stock springs, no issues, no pucker over road obstacles. That being said my buddy is going to be running the Muscle car pan with his bagged Suburban, clears bottom of crossmember perfectly. I may make the switch too when I lower the truck soon.

Fans, I'm running 95 Windstar fans, and actually since I don't have AC only one fan runs. But it's enough to keep the beast cool when sitting.

Tuning, I intended to keep the engine stock so I sent the PCM off to LT1swap for a reflash, engine runs great. Very happy. If you intend to modify your engine look for a highly regraded tuner in your area.

Gauges, look into the S10 speedo swap, looks nice.

I highly recommend reading the rusty C10 swap thread entirely, lot of nice work in there.

[Green67Stepper]

thanks for the info Guys. I guess i should have clarified a little more about my truck.

Its lowered 5.5"/7" right now, so the stock 5.3l pan concerns me hanging down too low.

Also, since i have the inline 6, i dont think that factory radiator will support a LS V8 motor.

I just have a tiny single exhaust as well, so that will need to be re-done.

i'll do some more research on the other stuff you guys have mentioned, like the DIY harness and the dakota digital speedo drive.

[72MARIO]

I love these budget swaps for a grand.... etc I ended up into $6000.00++ into mine that's conservative Never touched the hard parts inside the engine.. I kept track of everything including oil antifreeze transmission fluid. all that adds up in a hurry.

[clinebarger]

You will need to buy a Automatic Trans Crossmember, A Factory one is preferred! And you have Removing the Bellhousing Mount Stands to look forward to!!

[Green67Stepper]

what are people doing if you dont run AC? still mount the compressor and just not hook anything up to it? remove the compressor and mount some type of dummy pulley or tensioner? or just run a smaller belt without the compressor?

Also, what is everyones preference with DBW or cable throttle? i have connections to get both, the DBW setup is about $200-300 more. mileage is relatively the same, (within 20k mile of each other). Is one much easier to install or require alot more parts etc? i know i'll need the DBW petal, but that comes with the motor i would get.

[ls1nova71]

The A/C compressor runs off it's own smaller belt, so if you are not using it, just take it off. As for DBC or DBW, not a lot of difference really. Cable would be easier to hook up if you had a '71 or newer, but since yours is older you'd still have to mount a newer cable type pedal. If you go DBW, make sure to get the pedal the TAC and the jumper harness between the two.

[67chevysupercharged]

Green67Stepper,

I haven't personally tried these yet, but I am looking into using them for my little brother's swap. Says they're made in USA, and half the price of Dakota Digital's gauges.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...VEchoCiRPw_wcB

-Zak

[Green67Stepper]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

The A/C compressor runs off it's own smaller belt, so if you are not using it, just take it off. As for DBC or DBW, not a lot of difference really. Cable would be easier to hook up if you had a '71 or newer, but since yours is older you'd still have to mount a newer cable type pedal. If you go DBW, make sure to get the pedal the TAC and the jumper harness between the two.

thanks Nova, i'm leaning toward DBW i think.

Originally Posted by 67chevysupercharged

Green67Stepper,

I haven't personally tried these yet, but I am looking into using them for my little brother's swap. Says they're made in USA, and half the price of Dakota Digital's gauges.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...VEchoCiRPw_wcB

-Zak

thanks, i'll do some research on them. i've thought about getting the Torque Pro OBDII App for my phone and a Bluetooth OBDII reader and running that for a while until i can get a good set of real gauges.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by Green67Stepper

thanks, i'll do some research on them. i've thought about getting the Torque Pro OBDII App for my phone and a Bluetooth OBDII reader and running that for a while until i can get a good set of real gauges.

Actually I've had this idea before, you could get a cheap 7-10" tablet on Amazon for $45 to $90, and mount it in the place of the gauge cluster. Combined with the Torque App and the OBDII adapter you have a customizable gauge cluster for under $150.

[Green67Stepper]

Small Update: so far i've Purchased my CPP engine stands and CPP LS adaptors. I also got a 87-90 Jeep Wrangler Fuel tank to mount under the bed.

*** anyone know how to edit my original post, its not giving me the option anymore? i want to keep it updated with what what i've gotten, with Part #'s and pricing...

[superdav]

Where is this guy in Memphis? I'm near there

[DarkKnightWong]

Im watching this build closely ...
Im hopping to be able to do a budget LS swap in my 69 Step side.

[Green67Stepper]

Originally Posted by superdav

Where is this guy in Memphis? I'm near there

Here are the CL adds for the guys i found in Memphis. I have talked to the guy with the motor and he sells alot of them. For those that have seen the pictures from the SETN this year, he built the motor for the bagged Orange C10 that Bullocks Body Works built.

http://memphis.craigslist.org/pts/5729252267.html

http://memphis.craigslist.org/pts/5722412922.html

[crakarjax]

Here's my fuel system, used a wrangler tank so it should work well for you.

$300 for the *entire* fuel delivery system

[Green67Stepper]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Here's my fuel system, used a wrangler tank so it should work well for you.

$300 for the *entire* fuel delivery system

thanks for the info, that helps alot. i may just copy your fuel system then. are you running just a stock 5.3? also, what did you do for a fuel filler hose and cap? i'm planning to mount mine in the bed floor, but the filler neck is only 1" so havent found a fuel filler cap that will work let.

[Low Elco]

Ours is close to that. Look at the New Heart in my sig. Doesn't look like it, but VERY low-buck.

[206 1971C20]

I REALLY appreciate the great info. This site has inspired me to take the plunge and I now have a 2011 5.3 in the garage. I'm almost ready to start the adventure making my daily driver more efficient runner...a bit nervous that Im getting in way over my head I'm a "newb" first time posting on any forum anywhere so let me know if this post is rude...don't mean to highjack this thread.
Like you Im on a tight budget and want to keep it simple. Here are my questions:
1.) I have a 2011 5.3 LMG, What years 4L60E can work? I am having harness redone by B-P Automotive (Kentucky)
2.) Engine mounts. I like flexibility of Dirty Dingos but heard that they aren't compatible with rubber mounts. Advice on cheapest/best alternatives for 5.3/4L60 into 71 C20 that would allow original driveline without resizing.
3.) Fuel tank? Pros/Cons of LMC blazer tank vs Wrangler tank. My truck has original stance.

[crakarjax]

Can't speak for blazer tank, but the wrangler fits well and you can install it off to the pass. side to even out weight distribution L/R.

[Fandango]

Looking forward to updates.

The CL links are expired, do you have any contact info for the guy in Memphis?

[206 1971C20]

Thanks for the tank tip. I'll hit the junkyards next weekend looking for a Wrangler tank. I guess it might be time to start my own build thread.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by 206 1971C20

Thanks for the tank tip. I'll hit the junkyards next weekend looking for a Wrangler tank. I guess it might be time to start my own build thread.

Don't waste the time. I've seen maybe 1 in the yards. they're available online for roughly 85-100 bucks brand new. Google the dorman PN

[crakarjax]

I found my tank for $65 on ebay -- the whole system cost me under $300 all the way to the fuel rail.