What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[pjmoreland]

I found this nice temperature gauge in a spare cluster I had in my garage. The text is still green, and the hot range marker still has some orange to it. I plan on installing it in place of the one in my truck that is sun-bleached white, so I painted the needle.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Good job, Pat. That's exactly how I did the Speedo and Gas needles on mine. I mighta used Krylon instead, but it's the same regulation color.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Weather held off long enough today here to wheel the motor out and get it all painted. Pretty much done with it until I get the motor and trans out of the truck to start swapping stuff over.

[68bowtie]

Made a video of my big block idling. Still needs some adjustment.

https://rumble.com/v3pj0m2-1968-factory-396-swb.html

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Made a video of my big block idling. Still needs some adjustment.

https://rumble.com/v3pj0m2-1968-factory-396-swb.html

Attachment 2310352

Your truck sounds and looks awesome

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Made a video of my big block idling. Still needs some adjustment.

https://rumble.com/v3pj0m2-1968-factory-396-swb.html

Attachment 2310352

sounds like how a big block should.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Made a video of my big block idling. Still needs some adjustment.

https://rumble.com/v3pj0m2-1968-factory-396-swb.html

Attachment 2310352

Sounds Healthy Tim...just like it's supposed to!

[68bowtie]

Thanks!

['68OrangeSunshine]

I got my '71 GMC Jimmy back on the road in the wee small hours...
Had to call Roadside Rescue Monday night to get a guy with a jumper box.
Got home at midnight.
Back at work at 8:30 in the '68 Orange Stepside.
I had left my lights on, parked Downtown on Monday, while I was at work nearby from 12:30 to 10:30 PM. Four 5.5'' sealed beams at full blast. After work, I tried the key. Nothing. Dead flat.

Wednesday I got off early enough to drop off the Batt, a 4-y.-o. Deka
at O'RAP. A DVM reading w/o load was 12.63 vdc.
Parts store found no faults, and charged it overnight. [For free].
Stopped by Thursday and picked it up. Charged full.
While I was down, I checked the oil. It was low 1 Qt. Added one. Good catch.
Reinstalled and it cranked up good.
Ran to grocery store today.

Nominal operations resume.

[67C10Step]

Started last night and will continue for a few days to come. Pulled the intake last night to fix a nagging and worsening oil leak on the front.
Decided to check the timing chain play before I pulled the distributor. Found that to be more than I like but not a total surprise. So, today I will drop the oil pan slightly to get the timing set out. New water pump and timing set should be here Monday.
Meantime I will clean up the heads and intake for re-install.
The little mouse motor (283) runs fine and I hope to get another year or so out of it while I save my penny’s for something else.

[Nh4clo4]

Got the soundproofing, carpet and seat in!

[Danyo492]

Originally Posted by Nh4clo4

Got the soundproofing, carpet and seat in!

TMI seat?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Took the '68 C/10 Stepside [292 L6/SM465/3.73 REAR] into AZ ADEQ [emissions]
today.
It passed.
Readings:
HC ] Hydrocarbons/PPM.....093 OF 450 allowed
CO] Carbon Monoxide %......1.82 of 5.00 maximun

[Steeveedee]

Pretty much any vehicle engine in decent shape will pass the emissions test. I worked as a state-licensed SMOG tech for years. People used to come in all concerned that they wouldn't pass. If they didn't, it was generally timing or carb adjustments, and I'd make those adjustments as required for the $25 test fee. I generally didn't even tell them I did it, just handed them the cert. Didn't take that long, and I didn't feel like charging an extra $50 (or whatever it was) for the amount of time those adjustments took. Missing equipment was a bigger deal, but those I bucked up the food chain to the BAR as required. Very seldom did a vehicle fail, really.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Pretty much any vehicle engine in decent shape will pass the emissions test. I worked as a state-licensed SMOG tech for years. People used to come in all concerned that they wouldn't pass. If they didn't, it was generally timing or carb adjustments, and I'd make those adjustments as required for the $25 test fee. I generally didn't even tell them I did it, just handed them the cert. Didn't take that long, and I didn't feel like charging an extra $50 (or whatever it was) for the amount of time those adjustments took. Missing equipment was a bigger deal, but those I bucked up the food chain to the BAR as required. Very seldom did a vehicle fail, really.

Then you're an angel on the ground, Pal. I've never had an ADEQ guy work on my timing or carb. On a couple of occasions, they might've let me slide or turned a blind eye to help me pass. The Compliance Certificate used to have a checklist on the back of the form listing Ignition, Carb, Timing, PCV, Gas Cap, Etc., so you could check all the boxes if you did the tune up yourself. Now the back of the form just says NOTES:
For $12.25 you get a second retest free.
My Buddy/Mechanic, Dennis would open up the Edelbrock 1404, and we'd trade out the normal running jets and metering rods, for a special set in a ziplock bag marked ''Economy'' and I 'd run thru the retest. After passing, we'd reinstall the Normal set.
I would usually do as much of a tune up as needed -- Dist Cap, Plugs, Wires, Air Cleaner, whatever else...
V8s were the worst to get thru.
The '67 K/10 Suburban w/454 has been sitting for years. The '71 Jimmy's 350 was often a Bad Boy too, but since I got YOM plates and collector car insurance, it's exempt.
L6s generally are ''Nice Kids'' to the ADEQ guys, but my 292 is bored .030-over, has a 4-bbl Edelbrock [500 CFM] Offy intake, and Clifford headers.
Anyway, year before last, I left the Economy jets and metering rods in the carb, and didn't change them out.
Last year, I passed on the first try. Just like this year.
But while I was at the emission station, I noticed my water temp get really hot. It was up past 225*F -- didn't boil over due to a 50/50 coolant mix.
[Boil-over is an immediate 'Flunk'] but I had to gradually raise my RPMs after the probes were pulled but before I got my paperwork cert. Pulling out of the facility, I cut on the Heater Air fan and Defroster to bring the engine temps down. It was in the high 90s today in Tucson. As soon as the temp gauge came back to 195* I saved the Heater etc. Engine cooled down on the way home.
I asked Dennis about this, and he said I'm set too lean, and to back off the A/F mixture screws til I get a nominal 17.5''Hg on the Manifold Vacuum gauge.

[Steeveedee]

There's plenty of money to be made in the mechanic business without stealing it. When I worked as a mechanic, the BAR's newsletters claimed that half of all repairs in California were not necessary- not just emission controls. That's probably still true. I didn't tell the boss what I did, though. He'd have gotten all soggy and hard to light. But by the time all the equipment is hooked up for the test, 3 more minutes tops for needed adjustments didn't justify the extra charge, to me.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

The world needs more people like you Steven ^^^^

[72c20customcamper]

Lots of crap on the 72 . First redid all the rubber lines they were real bad ended up buying them from Brake Hoses unlimited . Fit was perfect as apposed to the two other sets I bought and returned to other venders . New power vac and master only thing I had to modify the combo valve bracket to fit the original lines didn’t line up at all I had to straighten and then re-bend it I wasn’t going to change perfectly good originals . Brakes all done and bled next was the Flexplate the old one had a a few missing teeth . I took out the driveshaft and removed the crossmember bolts to the frame and replaced 4 bolts with 10 inchers and slide the trans back . Tomorrow I hope to have it buttoned up and drivable again .

[LNP]

72c20customcamper longer bolts is how I use to do it in the garage thru the years I wrenched for a livin. I used the long bolts to make installs easier as well.

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Lots of crap on the 72 . First redid all the rubber lines they were real bad ended up buying them from Brake Hoses unlimited . Fit was perfect as apposed to the two other sets I bought and returned to other venders . New power vac and master only thing I had to modify the combo valve bracket to fit the original lines didn’t line up at all I had to straighten and then re-bend it I wasn’t going to change perfectly good originals . Brakes all done and bled next was the Flexplate the old one had a a few missing teeth . I took out the driveshaft and removed the crossmember bolts to the frame and replaced 4 bolts with 10 inchers and slide the trans back . Tomorrow I hope to have it buttoned up and drivable again .

Question on the brake line routing from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve - I see that you have the rear line (closer to the firewall) routed to the front of the valve. Is the line directly below it connected to the front brakes? I am under the impression that the front port on the master cylinder is for the front brakes and the rear port for rear brakes - ? I am putting my brakes together (swapped to disks on the front) and if yours is correct then I need to reroute some lines.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by maverickmk

Question on the brake line routing from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve - I see that you have the rear line (closer to the firewall) routed to the front of the valve. Is the line directly below it connected to the front brakes? I am under the impression that the front port on the master cylinder is for the front brakes and the rear port for rear brakes - ? I am putting my brakes together (swapped to disks on the front) and if yours is correct then I need to reroute some lines.

This is the complete set up from Franks Pickmup . My original master was routed the same way. The larger reservoir(rear) is for the disc so as they wear the fluid will go down so you need a larger reservoir and yes the front line from the valve bottom is for the front brake . Rears are self adjusting so no drop in fluid
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=581862

[maverickmk]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

This is the complete set up from Franks Pickmup . My original master was routed the same way. The larger reservoir(rear) is for the disc so as they wear the fluid will go down so you need a larger reservoir and yes the front line from the valve bottom is for the front brake . Rears are self adjusting so no drop in fluid
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=581862

Gotcha', thanks!

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Right on Mark, glad to see you got lots done, the brake lines and all look great.

[mr.mud1]

looking good.i got the front flex hoses for my truck from Brake Hoses Unlimited in Michigan as well.as you say,fit perfect.i've been singing his praises everytime someone on here asks about brake hoses and all the aftermarket ones available at the reguular places are chinese and too short.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

looking good.i got the front flex hoses for my truck from Brake Hoses Unlimited in Michigan as well.as you say,fit perfect.i've been singing his praises everytime someone on here asks about brake hoses and all the aftermarket ones available at the reguular places are chinese and too short.

Great guy to work with too . The rear line in the kit was to long he made up another to the length I wanted and sent it out . Only request was that I send back the one that didn’t fit . The rear line on the truck was 14.75 inches long the “book” calls for 18 inch .