Interest in Dummy Gas Cap Filler Neck?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

Your quick Cad drawing are amazing! I assume you may do that for a living? I think all this input is
very positive and some good ideas for sure.

Yep. I design robots for a living. I'm enjoying designing something fun and without a tight schedule for a change. I've got the week off, too, so that helps. All of the suggestions have been extremely helpful.

[pjmoreland]

I modified the design to work with a power outlet. There would need to be two versions of the clamp plate though for those who don't want the power outlet. Here are some images of the power outlet version.

[pjmoreland]

Here are some images of the regular non-power-outlet version.

[pjmoreland]

The gas cap will need to be removable for the power outlet version. Having the cap stuck on there would be a nice way to keep the cap from getting stolen.

I may want to make it so there is only one version simply by adding a plug to the hole for the normal non-power-outlet version.

[jondancer]

Very cool

[pjmoreland]

I sent updated drawings to the machine shop for quote. I also ordered some thin-walled steel tubing from McMaster-Carr to test out the spacer idea to make the filler neck stick out the stock distance.

[ItWillBeSlow]

I am very interested pending the final modified design. I also like the original idea but agree it could stick out another 1/8" ish and could be shallower on the interior side.

Why are you using a modified 60-66 neck? This kit would include the gasket right?

Assuming this idea materializes, how long do you think it would be for them to be available? I have this project on my to-do list and would rather buy a ready-to-go kit.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by ItWillBeSlow

I am very interested pending the final modified design. I also like the original idea but agree it could stick out another 1/8" ish and could be shallower on the interior side.

Why are you using a modified 60-66 neck? This kit would include the gasket right?

Assuming this idea materializes, how long do you think it would be for them to be available? I have this project on my to-do list and would rather buy a ready-to-go kit.

The 60-66 neck uses the same gas cap as 67-70 tank, but the neck is a separate piece. Otherwise, I'd need a big supply of old 67-70 tanks that I could cut the filler neck off of. It's just a convenient way to get a filler neck.

I wasn't planning on including the gasket since some people would already have one. If people think I should include it, then I could include the USA-made one sold by GMCPauls for $12. I would need to factor that into the cost of the dummy filler neck though.

The machine shop lead time is four weeks right now. I'm planning on placing an order for the parts within the next week or so. I would need maybe another 2-3 weeks after receiving the parts to do the welding, painting and assembly. So it will probably be a couple of months before I'm ready to ship anything.

[ItWillBeSlow]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

The 60-66 neck uses the same gas cap as 67-70 tank, but the neck is a separate piece. Otherwise, I'd need a big supply of old 67-70 tanks that I could cut the filler neck off of. It's just a convenient way to get a filler neck.

I wasn't planning on including the gasket since some people would already have one. If people think I should include it, then I could include the USA-made one sold by GMCPauls for $12. I would need to factor that into the cost of the dummy filler neck though.

The machine shop lead time is four weeks right now. I'm planning on placing an order for the parts within the next week or so. I would need maybe another 2-3 weeks after receiving the parts to do the welding, painting and assembly. So it will probably be a couple of months before I'm ready to ship anything.

Thanks.
Dumb question - is there a difference in the tanks for 71/72? I noticed you said 67-70 but I always thought they were all the same.

I like the idea of including the gasket personally; even if you upcharge as needed, it should lower the overall cost for those of us who need the gasket so we aren't paying to ship 2 parts. If I buy a $12 gasket from GMCp it will cost me $30 to my door with their shipping structure, if not more.

I'll keep an eye on this thread for a bit, I am very interested pending the final design. Feel free to PM me in the near future if you are trying to verify who is "in".

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by ItWillBeSlow

Thanks.
Dumb question - is there a difference in the tanks for 71/72? I noticed you said 67-70 but I always thought they were all the same.

I like the idea of including the gasket personally; even if you upcharge as needed, it should lower the overall cost for those of us who need the gasket so we aren't paying to ship 2 parts. If I buy a $12 gasket from GMCp it will cost me $30 to my door with their shipping structure, if not more.

I'll keep an eye on this thread for a bit, I am very interested pending the final design. Feel free to PM me in the near future if you are trying to verify who is "in".

That's a good point about the extra shipping. I will plan on including the gasket. There could also be variations between gasket brands that could affect the fitment of the dummy filler neck clamp.

The 71-72 filler neck has a smaller diameter than 67-70. The cab holes are the same size though, so a 67-70 gasket will fit in a 71-72 truck. This is another good reason for me to include the gasket with the kit.

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That's a good point about the extra shipping. I will plan on including the gasket. There could also be variations between gasket brands that could affect the fitment of the dummy filler neck clamp.

The 71-72 filler neck has a smaller diameter than 67-70. The cab holes are the same size though, so a 67-70 gasket will fit in a 71-72 truck. This is another good reason for me to include the gasket with the kit.

I think you hit your magic number of 10 sold!

[72afr]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That's a good point about the extra shipping. I will plan on including the gasket. There could also be variations between gasket brands that could affect the fitment of the dummy filler neck clamp.

The 71-72 filler neck has a smaller diameter than 67-70. The cab holes are the same size though, so a 67-70 gasket will fit in a 71-72 truck. This is another good reason for me to include the gasket with the kit.

On my '72, we cut off the original filler neck and cap, welded a plate to the bottom and put it back with a new grommet. Unknown to me at the time, we used a 67-70 gasket which was too large (as you mentioned above) and it would slide in and out. During the refresh last summer I looked into this a bit more and picked up the correct grommet, which uses the neck ribbing and holds it in place perfectly.

[pjmoreland]

The plastic plug I was planning on using for the non-power-outlet version is probably not a good idea because someone putting a gas pump nozzle into the dummy filler neck would likely pop out the plug. Instead, I modified the clamp plate to have a pop-out metal plug.

[pjmoreland]

That certainly would simplify things. I'm not familiar with the Blazer filler neck, but I'm assuming there is a mounting flange welded to the quarter panel for attaching the filler neck. I'm trying to stay away from having to modify the cab. I did a Google search and there are lots of companies making "bayonet" style filler necks out there. There might be something useful for us instead of the 60-66 filler neck.

[BigBird05]

I am very interested in this design. I have relocated my tank and using your filler neck would save me from welding my filler neck opening closed. I have read that it is very hard to weld the gas filler opening without a tell tail witness mark showing thru.

[dmjlambert]

Here is a rough hack to your drawing that shows the way I would approach the bracket. Make it out of sheet metal, fairly thin metal straps perhaps 3/8 inch wide, and insert it to grip the metal hole in the cab, then put the grommet on the cab, then insert the dummy neck and attach screw. You may need to use 2 or even 3 of the sheet metal brackets so you get several grip points around the hole for extra stability. This would allow the neck to stick out however much you want, look more stock, and not rely on pressing that lip against the rubber grommet for tension.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Here is a rough hack to your drawing that shows the way I would approach the bracket. Make it out of sheet metal, fairly thin metal straps perhaps 3/8 inch wide, and insert it to grip the metal hole in the cab, then put the grommet on the cab, then insert the dummy neck and attach screw. You may need to use 2 or even 3 of the sheet metal brackets so you get several grip points around the hole for extra stability. This would allow the neck to stick out however much you want, look more stock, and not rely on pressing that lip against the rubber grommet for tension.

Thank you for taking the time to think about this, and thanks for the sketch. This approach is worth exploring. I think the first thing I'd do would be to make sure the ends of the strap would fit underneath the grommet without causing the grommet to pucker.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Here is a rough hack to your drawing that shows the way I would approach the bracket. Make it out of sheet metal, fairly thin metal straps perhaps 3/8 inch wide, and insert it to grip the metal hole in the cab, then put the grommet on the cab, then insert the dummy neck and attach screw. You may need to use 2 or even 3 of the sheet metal brackets so you get several grip points around the hole for extra stability. This would allow the neck to stick out however much you want, look more stock, and not rely on pressing that lip against the rubber grommet for tension.

I spent some time today investigating your suggestion. I made my 3D model of the grommet more accurate, and I modeled the cab hole. In order to hook the fingers onto the cab, the grommet gets pushed out of position. I made a finger to test it, and it creates a bulge in the grommet. It might be possible to taper the end of the finger to minimize the bulge. I think it could be made to work, but it would be difficult to make and install. The fingers would either have to be separate pieces, or they would have to be bent into position. I think it would end up being finicky. Also, I scratched my paint a little in the process of testing. I'm not particularly worried about that, but others might be. It was difficult to get the filler neck through the grommet with one finger in place. I'm assuming it would be even harder with three. Clamping against the grommet does work, so I'm going to stick with that for simplicity of installation. Thank you for making the suggestion though.

[dmjlambert]

I do like the deeper neck version so there's room to store something. I like the prank snake in there or put a button at the bottom with a sign that says don't push.

[jones6826]

I would definitely be interested in one of these. I moved my tank to the rear and sold my tank before thinking about needing the filler neck to fill the hole.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by jones6826

I would definitely be interested in one of these. I moved my tank to the rear and sold my tank before thinking about needing the filler neck to fill the hole.

Excellent. Thank you

[SBLars]

I’d buy one.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by SBLars

I’d buy one.

Thank you

[67C10Step]

pj,
I am in as well. I was looking at the gaping hole in my truck cab this weekend and thought of this thread. Sure, I could make something myself but sometimes it's more time conscious to buy something and move on to the next thing.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

pj,
I am in as well. I was looking at the gaping hole in my truck cab this weekend and thought of this thread. Sure, I could make something myself but sometimes it's more time conscious to buy something and move on to the next thing.

Sweet. Thanks. I might need to make more than 10