Shucks First Build

[Cape Codder]

Proves you can't beat youth and enthusiasm . Looks like you been working hard.

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Proves you can't beat youth and enthusiasm . Looks like you been working hard.

Lots of long days. I did get a job as a fire fighter/EMT about 3 months ago and the days off really make it nice to be able to have full days to work on it.

[Shucks]

I was able to throw some clear on it this morning.

[Shucks]

[Cape Codder]

I would have gotten the rest of those parts in primer before assembling A lot less masking

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

I would have gotten the rest of those parts in primer before assembling A lot less masking

Well good to know, I might just take them back off and do that then!

[Cape Codder]

After doing this for over 40 years I look for ways to save on material costs. The less I spend on materials the more I make or the less I have to work. Tape and masking materials add up plus the added time to mask. I use bed sheets instead of plastic sheeting to cover cars also as it not only saves money but much less trash. I work alone and only have to empty my shop trash can about every three weeks as all paper and cardboard goes to recycling.

[aggie91]

Cape Codder has a good point. I would add to that by saying, since you cut in the front fenders and the inside of the cab...I would get the inside of the doors cut in and the jamb area of the doors painted before rehanging them on the truck.

[Shucks]

Well I appreciate the advice, I don't get much, not many people I know do this type of stuff so, I appreciate what I can get. I know I've spent way more time and money than I should have on stupid mistakes and other errors.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Shucks

Well I appreciate the advice, I don't get much, not many people I know do this type of stuff so, I appreciate what I can get. I know I've spent way more time and money than I should have on stupid mistakes and other errors.

Dont beat yourself up, thats part of the learning process. First learn how to do it right, then you will figure out how to do it smarter and faster.

[Cape Codder]

Spraying metalic color you do want to mount the doors and fenders before final painting so the color and metalic match up. But You can paint the inside of the doors and jambs before hanging them. as just posted. Much easier to paint the hinges and pillars this way.

You are doing a great job for your first time. Most body guys spend a few years as an apprentice to get to what you are doing now..

[Shucks]

Well again, thank you for the complements and critiques, I appreciate i all. I will paint the jambs and the insides of the doors off like this. It does make more sense to do it this way. Now, when I get it color in the jambs, do I clear coat it now? Or do I clear it when I'm finished and clearing the doors?



Everything's finally ready to be sprayed, finally. Tomorrow will be good.

[Cape Codder]

I clear as soon as the base flashes of or dries to the touch. Anywhere from 15 minutes to a half hr. Keep in mind you are not nor should you sand the base so it is a chemical bond not a mech. bond as in sanding . The drier the base the less the clear can grip it. I don't even give the gun a good cleaning between, a quick rinse with reducer and pour in the clear.

[Shucks]

Cool, good to know. I did try to sand the base coat when I did the inside, not knowing that wouldn't work, I then had to re-do under the back window... live and learn.

[N2TRUX]

Not sure what your using for paint guns, but I can offer some advice. Harbor Freight has a HVLP mid size gun that at atomizes very nicely. I used a 20% off code and bought an extra gun cheaper than a 12 pack of disposable cups.

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Not sure what your using for paint guns, but I can offer some advice. Harbor Freight has a HVLP mid size gun that at atomizes very nicely. I used a 20% off code and bought an extra gun cheaper than a 12 pack of disposable cups.

The gun I'm using is an HVLP from car quest. It's not bad, it seems to be working well but I guess I may not know how a really good gun is supposed to spray. This one seemed good for me. Should I look into something different?

[Shucks]

Any opinions? Or other options? 20 inch.

[Cape Codder]

If what you are using is working stick with it. A high level gun may attomize the paint nicer and lay down clear that doesn't need sanding and buffing but unless you have a dust free downdraft heated booth you will be sanding a buffing anyway.

[Cape Codder]

Wheels are a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong choice just what the person paying wants to pay for. As for my preference I love the first one with the darker spokes. They are more period correct for your truck in my opinion. I don't like the big wheel thin tire look at all but then I am an old guy that doesn't get it. The large wheel with thin sidewall was developed for performance ,less sidewall flex while cornering. The trade off is a lousy riding tire that destroys wheels if you hit potholes. Plus I think they look out of place on a classic truck. Again an opinion and what I prefer you should get what you like. These days with the net you can look at hundreds of trucks like yours with different combinations to see what has the look you want before spending money. You don't even have to leave this site.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Shucks

The gun I'm using is an HVLP from car quest. It's not bad, it seems to be working well but I guess I may not know how a really good gun is supposed to spray. This one seemed good for me. Should I look into something different?

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

If what you are using is working stick with it. A high level gun may attomize the paint nicer and lay down clear that doesn't need sanding and buffing but unless you have a dust free downdraft heated booth you will be sanding a buffing anyway.

I agree with Cape Codder on the thought that your going to need to cut and buff no matter what. I still prefer a gun thats used exclusively for clear.
With the cost of materials these days, especially solvents used to clean a gun the price of a Harbor Freight gun is a bargain. Regardless of your budget, using the same gun to shoot color and clear will eventually bite you. No matter how well you think a gun has been cleaned, theres always a bit of color hiding somewhere.

[N2TRUX]

The American racing Torque Thrust is a classic wheel that never goes out of style. Right now the gray centers are more popular that the polished. Any 5 spoke wheel like the American Eagle pictured will look great as well.

Regarding size, 20s look fantastic on a mild dropped truck and can be had at a decent price. While searching for styles and sizes. look at cost and availability of tires too. The common misconception is that larger size tires like 20s or 22s are more expensive than smaller sizes. The reality is I can buy 20s or 22s cheaper than I can by 17s or 18s.
As long as you get a decent size sidewall, you want have any issues with ride or rim damage.

[Cape Codder]

As long as you get a decent size sidewall, you want have any issues with ride or rim damage.

You should see what our new england roads look like after the ground freezes and then the plows tear into them. By spring we have holes I am afraid to drive into with 235/75/15s.
My ex just blew out a wheel and tire on her Miata with stock wheels.

[Shucks]

I have noticed that tire prices can be more expensive for the smaller sizes but the wheel changed drastically with a 20inch rim. But, that's the size of wheel I'm looking for. The tire sizes I'm looking at are 245/45/r20 and 275/45/r20 with a20x8 and a 20x10. Which I have done research and people seem to not have issues with that sidewall and wheel combination. The one concern I do have is the lip on the front fender coming to contact with the tire. I'm no guru on backspacing but Aggie gave me good pointers. 4.75 backspacing in the front followed by 5.75 backspacing in the rear for those gray torque thrust wheels. I read that people put 5 or 5.5 backspacing on the rear but I can't seem to find any torque thrust with that backspacing and wheel size. Aggie mentioned a 3/4 spacer on the rear wheels, should and hopefully will work with the math we did.

[aggie91]

All three of your wheel choices are great for that truck. I agree with Ken, the gray center Torque Thrust would be my choice. I have had the AE 225's, they are great wheels, you can get a better selection of back spacing on them as they are part of AE's custom line now. I had issues getting my set and it took FOREVER to get them. If you go with them, I would do a 5" back space on a 8.5" front wheel and a 5" backspace on the 10" rear wheel. I think a bit taller tire for the rear would look good too, like a 295/40-20, price may become an issue and you could always change the rear size once the first set is worn out...

[Cape Codder]

Now what makes you think a teenagers rear tires will wear out first?