Dropmember in a 69 C10

[smbrouss70]

Nathan, congrats on the Dropmember write-up in this months Classic Trucks mag.

[PBFAB.COM]

Few more things to add... hopefully they can answer some of the more recent questions.

As for the straight 6 and the Dropmember... I do not know what clearance issues would result with this combo. Maybe one of these days I will mock one up (if enough interest is generated by potential customers) and see... rather than pulling them out and letting the scrap guy take em!

Good news for the Big Block guys... just received some feedback from Valley Custom... he's installing a Big Block and DropmemberC4 in a 67-72. It has a TH400 for the trans, and he said there were no clearance issues besides the trans tunnel that we are all aware of. I will be doing a big block mock up eventually, and will be providing motor mounts for this application.

As for the rear suspension kit to compliment the Dropmember... the four link front brackets will bolt-on the framerails, the four-link axle mounts will weld-on to the tubes, and the panhard bar mounts will weld to the axle and bolt-on at the chassis. There will be two versions... one for a mild c-notch (I will be using Air Ride Technologies' notch), and one to lay frame with a 29" tall tire. The latter will require welding skills to complete. It will be a semi-back-half that bolts in and can also be welded into place. Again, a good few to six months away from being available. I currently have no idea on pricing... any ideas??? ... yeah right!

The 327 will work perfectly with the Dropmember... as will all other displacements of the small block chevy.

Shane... student loans are to be used for SCHOOL! Then again, that's how I financed my first air suspension!

Tony- Looks like your member will be getting to you a bit sooner than expected. I should have it out to you the first of next week.

Steven- Thanks for the congrats... I still haven't received my issue???? I have had numerous calls from people who have purchased it 'off the shelf' and I haven't even gotten mine... I thought a subscription meant you got it before it hit the shelves???... guess not!

[dan468]

Porter Built, when do you think you will have a Big Block mock up? That's all I'm waiting on until I purchase your dropmember

[XXL]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Shane... student loans are to be used for SCHOOL!

How's he supposed to get to class without a suspension on his vehicle? PB, would you deny this man his right to access our educational system? For shane... er... shame.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by dan468

Porter Built, when do you think you will have a Big Block mock up? That's all I'm waiting on until I purchase your dropmember

In that case... tomorrow! Actually, I am hoping to get the Big Block set-up in the next six to eight weeks or so. I am currently working on way too many things as it is!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

In that case... tomorrow! Actually, I am hoping to get the Big Block set-up in the next six to eight weeks or so. I am currently working on way too many things as it is!

The best argument for human cloning I've heard . . ....

I just went to the mailbox because I haven't read the 'write-up' everyones talking about & I got mine today! Very cool indeed Nathan..... this should boost sales in the near future!

On that note.... A while back, we were discussing in PM's & such about the possibility of using a manual rack on the C4 Dropmember. We learned it wouldn't be possible because of the stock manufactured 'off the shelf' C4 R&P you're using could be subjected to un-due stress & possibly shear the pinion teeth if used in a manual application. At the time of our discussions I kind of gave up on this because I had to take care of a family 'emergency' that depleted some of my truck $$.

Things are getting back to normal for my brother & I should have my $$ back soon so . . ..... How about the C4 Dropmember w/a custom manual R&P? IIRC, you were originally going to use a custom 'spec' set-up before you learned the stock C4 would be cheaper/easier to obtain.
Let me know your thoughts.

[lolife99]

I am also interested in the Big Block dropmember. Keep us posted!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The best argument for human cloning I've heard . . ....

I just went to the mailbox because I haven't read the 'write-up' everyones talking about & I got mine today! Very cool indeed Nathan..... this should boost sales in the near future!

On that note.... A while back, we were discussing in PM's & such about the possibility of using a manual rack on the C4 Dropmember. We learned it wouldn't be possible because of the stock manufactured 'off the shelf' C4 R&P you're using could be subjected to un-due stress & possibly shear the pinion teeth if used in a manual application. At the time of our discussions I kind of gave up on this because I had to take care of a family 'emergency' that depleted some of my truck $$.

Things are getting back to normal for my brother & I should have my $$ back soon so . . ..... How about the C4 Dropmember w/a custom manual R&P? IIRC, you were originally going to use a custom 'spec' set-up before you learned the stock C4 would be cheaper/easier to obtain.
Let me know your thoughts.

I was wondering what happened... you seemed so interested!

I know all too well about the 'family emergencies' that can so easily deplete a savings account. Glad to hear all is well... or close to it again.

The underlying reasons a 'custom width manual rack' wasn't going to work has to do with the distance between the inner tie-rod pivots on the rack. The C4 width is 26" center to center, and the manual rack would be achieved by lengthening a MII design. The MII is a 24" center to center width, so one would think an inch added to each side would be easy enough to obtain...right? The problem with only one inch on each side is it isn't enough to create a strong enough joint on the extension piece. It needs to be at least two inches to have enough threads to be strong enough for the application.

One thought that has come to mind, is that we might be able to lengthen one side two inches to obtain a 26" center to center and then offset the rack mounts to compensate. I am trying to think through this and the only possible obstacles would be where the pinion shaft ended up for the steering when it moves over an inch... it's already pretty tight. It may not be possible to lengthen only one side... there may be a problem that I am missing. I will check into it more on Monday.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I'm saving for this as I type this, very cool upgrade

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I was wondering what happened... you seemed so interested!

I know all too well about the 'family emergencies' that can so easily deplete a savings account. Glad to hear all is well... or close to it again.

The underlying reasons a 'custom width manual rack' wasn't going to work has to do with the distance between the inner tie-rod pivots on the rack. The C4 width is 26" center to center, and the manual rack would be achieved by lengthening a MII design. The MII is a 24" center to center width, so one would think an inch added to each side would be easy enough to obtain...right? The problem with only one inch on each side is it isn't enough to create a strong enough joint on the extension piece. It needs to be at least two inches to have enough threads to be strong enough for the application.

One thought that has come to mind, is that we might be able to lengthen one side two inches to obtain a 26" center to center and then offset the rack mounts to compensate. I am trying to think through this and the only possible obstacles would be where the pinion shaft ended up for the steering when it moves over an inch... it's already pretty tight. It may not be possible to lengthen only one side... there may be a problem that I am missing. I will check into it more on Monday.

Nathan,

I'm may be going out on a limb here because I have never really studied steering setups, but, would it be possible to shorten the Mustang II by 1" on each side so you could build the 2" extenders? If this makes sense I'll take a little credit, if it is a totally stupid suggestion, I was drunk when I wrote it .

R

[laidout]

i have a few Q's ive got a carbed v8 but heres my problem i want the dropmember so bad i cant stand it but i needed to lower my engine at least 1inch to 1 1/2 for drive shaft clearence. because i zd the frame. and in one of the post says it will raise the engine more than stock. is there any way of lowering the engine or will it interfare with the rack. OR could i use the stock steering and just lower the mounts

and also what is the minum angle the motor and tranny can have before i started cutting the crossmember to lower the engine i made it site level 0 degrees i hate it tho i started cutting up the stock crossmember to make clearnce for the engine. the more i got discusted with it just because i want it to turn out like dropmemder and i know it wont so im just going to scrap that idea and buy the basic kit for now and use my stock control arm for now and upgrade to tubluar later

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by laidout

i have a few Q's ive got a carbed v8 but heres my problem i want the dropmember so bad i cant stand it but i needed to lower my engine at least 1inch to 1 1/2 for drive shaft clearence. because i zd the frame. and in one of the post says it will raise the engine more than stock. is there any way of lowering the engine or will it interfare with the rack. OR could i use the stock steering and just lower the mounts

and also what is the minum angle the motor and tranny can have before i started cutting the crossmember to lower the engine i made it site level 0 degrees i hate it tho i started cutting up the stock crossmember to make clearnce for the engine. the more i got discusted with it just because i want it to turn out like dropmemder and i know it wont so im just going to scrap that idea and buy the basic kit for now and use my stock control arm for now and upgrade to tubluar later

Well, I would like to tell you it would work out great... but it won't. Because the frame has already been "Z'd" it will put the suspension and motor up too high. If you really wanted to use the Dropmember, I guess you could, but you will have severs floor and firewall mods to make. How big is the "Z"... is it 2.5" or 3"? Most likely a stock spindle would be recommended. I had another customer a while back (one of the first Dropmember sales) that purchased one... turned out in our converstions it never came up that he had body dropped the truck. Well, it was finally understood... luckily before I shipped the piece. I went ahead and refunded his money. It would have caused some major firewall, floor, and possible hood clearance issues... more than he wanted to deal with.

When you install the Dropmember, it's has the same effects that a Z does. All suspension components move up, as does the motor and trans. If you've already "Z'd" the frame, a Dropmember install would be like "Zing" it a second time.

It would be easier to get a stock frame that hasn't been "Z'd" and go from there.

Stock steering will NOT work with the Dropmember.

[laidout]

crap i was hoping you wouldnt say that i could start over but me and my buddys have spent way to much time getting it like it is now

well i guiess i can bite the bullet and just finsh the stock crossmember
well what can i get tubular upper and lower control arms with the bag brackets on them

[PBFAB.COM]

It looks like you have quite a bit of time invested in that frame... It would be hard to just write it off and start over.

The Air Ride Strong Arms are $749 ($675 with board member's discount). That price is without the bags and brackets that bolt to the crossmember... it's pretty easy to make one, and it looks like you could handle it! If you'd rather buy one, I will find out what they run.

[laidout]

man you hook up the members lol and have you had a chance to make the hood brackets

[jlaird]

I don't wont to hijack nathans post here, but wanted to comment quickly on laidouts frame. Very interesting how you are putting the stock trailing arms to use. That is the first time I'm seen this done. I'm actually surprised this is the first time I've seen this done. Would of saved me the cost of a 4link. Is there a reason nobody has attempted what laidout is doing with his trailing arms?

[el curioso]

Ithink it's cuz no one like two links.

[laidout]

i used squair tube we made the link bars just used the u bolt

but i might re do it and go with a 4 link just lack of cash pluc i had that laying around

[watahyahknow]

it should work ok , just need to put a z type crosslink on the back of the diff to controll side to side movement .

[laidout]

ya im getting a watts link for it

[XXL]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Is there a reason nobody has attempted what laidout is doing with his trailing arms?

It's really just a derivation of the stock setup. However, there's more load put on the "centering device" (Panhard, Watts, etc.). By canting the trailing arms at a greater angle, they are more inclined to self-center than parallel bars. Other than that... seems like a reasonable method. It certainly resolves the frame clearance issue on ultra-lowered trucks with stock frames (just behind the cab).

[67Fleet]

Nathan, the more I read this post, the more I am swinging towards forking over the cash. I'll be in touch with you soon. My truck is going to my buddy's shop to have the motor pulled. What are your opinions on a non-powered rack? What are the benefits of the power rack other than ease of steering?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

Nathan, the more I read this post, the more I am swinging towards forking over the cash. I'll be in touch with you soon. My truck is going to my buddy's shop to have the motor pulled. What are your opinions on a non-powered rack? What are the benefits of the power rack other than ease of steering?

My opinions on the rack and pinion... For my personal vehicle, I would install a manual rack. Dino's 66 SWB and 63 panel both have manual racks and are a pleasure to drive. The only real added benefit of Power Assist is that it makes life easier turning at low speeds. If you are running a smaller diameter steering wheel, a power unit will diminish the amount of profanity while attempting to park. A manual rack is an almost sure thing that your wife or girlfriend will never want to drive your truck!

Of course, if you are going to be running other ammenities, such as A/C, why not go power rack as well? The added cost is about $150.

[PBFAB.COM]

I have some updated pricing on the Dropmember and its options. These are Board Member pricing only. One small change in relation to board member discounts: The board discount will be available to SUPPORTING Board Members only as of Feb. 1st (well worth the $25 fee to support the board).

These prices do not include shipping costs.

Dropmember 'Basic Kit' $1290, includes the following:

-Main cross-member
-Inner frame plates
-Upper control arm/ bag mounts
-Motor mounts (SBC 350... BBC and LS1 coming soon)
-Trans crossmember
-Rack and pinion mounting bushings
-Tie-rod ends and tie rod adjuster/adapter sleeves
-Rack and pinion tie-rod notch
-All hardware to install Dropmember

Additional options and pricing (these items will be needed to complete installation… you may already have some of these items).

-Steering linkage (shaft, joints, and idler) $243
-Rack and pinion $225 (power), $207 (manual)
-Power steering lines $90
-Air Ride Tech. 'Strong Arms' $674.10 (tubular control arms are not necessary, but recommended. The Dropmember was designed to be used with Air Ride Technologies' Strong Arms. Stock arms can be used with slight trimming on lower control arm).
-Air Bags (Slam Specialties RE7) $150
-Shocks (Monroe) $105.05
-60-72 6-lug rotor kit (rotors, calipers, lines, bearings, pads, seals, dust caps) $365.31
-60-72 5-lug rotor kit (rotors, calipers, lines, bearings, pads, seals, dust caps) $348.98
-2.5" Drop Spindles (63-70) $304.08
-2.5" Drop Spindles (71-72… must use 'heavy duty' rotors) $304.08
-2" Drop Spindles (73-87) $295.66

[jlaird]

I just wanted to say thanks to nathan for taking time out of his day to help me out. I gave him a call today. Sounded like a stand up guy. I was just reading your updated parts list. We can use the 73-87 3" drop spindle, correct?