What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmission?

[Gregski]

hey guys, OP here just wanted to give you an update, so can't believe it's been over two years and over 15,000 miles on the 833 transmission I finally had enough of the Chewbacka noises it made since day one and decided to yank it out for a rebuild

in the meantime I threw in a Saginaw 4 speed (no overdrive) that I bought off of Craigslist and put on about 2,000 miles on that gear box already, it makes a whole different type of noise, ha ha, but that's another story you can follow somewhere down on this Restoring Rusty page

[Gregski]

this is the rebuild kit I ordered from Brewer's Performance in Laura Ohio

Product ID: RBK-MY6

Price: $129.95
Plus the SYNCHRONIZER RINGS (+$49.95)

so $179 plus shipping

[Gregski]

... well I ordered the kit just over a week ago last Wednesday, emailed them yesterday and they said it was already delivered this past Saturday by the United Stated Postal Service, and they left the package on my porch, well guess what, today is Thursday of the following week, and no package, this sucks, I don't know if someone stole it, or if they delivered it to the wrong house or what, when I track the package it says it was insured for only $100 bucks, great!

[Gregski]

good news, got a call from Brewer's saying the owner of my old old house called them saying he has a package for me and if I could come down and pick it up (this is a house from 2 moves ago, but it is just down the street)

so I sent my wife there on foot and she return triumphant with the box of parts

[MusicMan70]

Yay the mail must go thru...at least to somewhere. Soon you’ll be back in overdrive mode.

[v30crewcab]

nice, I need to get a kit for one I have here.

[Gregski]

ok, here we go

Step 1. Clear the workbench (a rare sight indeed)

I don't know about you, but I can't function when I loose sight of my workbench and the garage reaches a certain level of messyness I go nutz

[Gregski]

Step 2. Place patient on the operating table

Top Tip: try not to rotate the transmission once you start the disassembly, just trust me on this one, what I mean by that is if you start off with the input shaft on your left then keep it on your left for the entire rebuild process. This obviously puts the output shaft to your right, now as you remove pieces, and there will be plenty of them, lay them out from left to right as you take them off and as they will go back on the transmission

it may look something like this: input shaft housing, housing gasket, small snap ring, bearing, large snap ring, etc. etc.

[Gregski]

Step 3. we remove the side cover, using 1/2" socket

Important: pay attention to the length of the cover bolts, on some transmission they are all the same length, but not on this one (ask me how i know)

Note: the two longer bolts at 5:00 o'clock as I lay them out in the same pattern that they go back in the cover

Also Note: the orientation of the shifting forks, this will prove beneficial upon assembly!

[Gregski]

I prefer not to use power tools however do to my recent wrist injury I opted to use an electric impact wrench for disassembly ONLY, this is especially important when working with an aluminum case, it really takes no effort at all to strip the threads on these beauties

[Gregski]

Step 4. remove the reverse clickity clicker spring and bee bee

a magnet is handy but not necessary

I am using a small magnetic tin can for the small bits

[Gregski]

Step 5. Remove the input shaft housing

Top Tip: pay attention how the housing goes back on, it has a drip divit on the bottom to allow the tran fluid to run back in to the case, I believe the bolt holes also only align one way, but it's good to pay attention to how it went on.

Quick Test: at this point I like to do a quick wiggle test grab the input shaft with your left hand as if it were a bicycle handlebar and wiggle it, there should not be any excessive play (whoa what do you mean excessive play, easy for you to say, how should we know what's exesive? easy tiger this is something guys like me about to go Semi Pro ha ha have come to learn over the years, after you wiggle a couple of 'em you just know, you will know after the rebuild, so hang tight)

[Gregski]

Step 6. Remove the speedo drive

Note the 10 mm metric bolt, although I hale from Europe this kinda nonsense infuriates me to no end

[Gregski]

Step 7. remove the output shaft housing, sometimes called the extension housing, here we switch to the 9/16ths socket and were not too proud to use a cheater bar to break these loose, (did I mention I am working with an injured right wrist/forearm, ha ha)

[Gregski]

the hardest part so far was getting the tail shaft housing off as it is really difficult to spread the large snap ring far enough apart to get the housing to slide off the main shaft

we had to make/modify some snap ring pliers using nails to be long enough and skinny enough to reach through the crack to get the housing off

[Gregski]

here's the tailshaft housing removed and that large hard to get to snap ring I was talking about

[Gregski]

Step 8. we remove the plastic speedo drive gear off of the output shaft, it is held on with a metal clip that you can use a small flat screw driver to press down on to slip the gear off reaward

[Gregski]

Step 9. Next you tap out the counter gear shaft from the rear of the tansmission to the front, a bunch of needle bearing will fall out

the shaft will come out but the cluster of counter gears will just drop down in the case about 1/4 inch just enough to allow the main shaft with all the primary gears to slide out the back of the transmission

no pics of this shown

[Gregski]

Step 10. now remove the main shaft with the Overdrive, Second, Reverse, and First Gears on it, out the back of the case housing

[Gregski]

Step 11. Remove the input shaft, the Third Gear lives on the input shaft

Note the 16 larger needle bearings that go inside this input shaft on the right where it mates with the main shaft, the main shaft goes inside the input shaft there

Third gear has 22 teeth and on this particular transmission is special cause it lives where normally 4th gear would live, and on this transmission because 4th is Overdrive, that makes 3rd direct drive or 1.00 gear ratio

Calculating this direct drive setup is a bit wonky, but it's worth a walk through

as with all the gears first we calculate what I call the input ratio into the transmission:

33 (driven gear) teeth on the counter shaft divided by 22 (drive gear) teeth on the input shaft gear (our 3rd gear is the gear on the input shaft) gives us a ratio of 1.5

then we calculate what I refer to as the output ratio out of the transmission:

in this case it's the same gears we just calculate them going the other way, so 22 (driven gear) teeth on the 3rd gear divided by 33 (drive gear) teeth on the counter shaft gives us a ratio of .66

the magic happens when we multiply the two ratios 1.5 x .66 = 1.00 or as we call it direct drive

calculating all the other gears makes more sense, so walk through those as well

[Gregski]

Step 12. now you can remove the counter gear assembly

now you get to see the shaft we tapped out in Step 9.

here you can see the two sets of needle bearings that go on that shaft and inside the counter gear assembly

I counted 19 plus spacer plus 19 more needle bearings then another spacer in the front, then a long tube thingie, and a spacer, then 19 more plus spacer plus 19 needle bearings in the rear

Note the straight cut reverse gear (second one in from the right)

[Gregski]

Step 13. Remove the 1st Gear off of the main shaft (it's the biggest one and first one from the right)

You are essentially working rear of the transmission to the front to do this, starting with the bearing snap ring, you use special snap ring pliers to remove it, then tap the bearing off with a piece of wood and a hammer, gently

First gear has 35 teeth yielding 3.09 gear ratio

We get this by first calculating what I call the input ratio into the transmission:

33 (driven gear) teeth on the counter shaft divided by 22 (drive gear) teeth on the input shaft gear gives us a ratio of 1.5

then we calculate what I refer to as the output ratio out of the transmission:

35 (driven gear) teeth on the 1st gear divided by 17 (drive gear) teeth on the counter shaft gives us a ratio of 2.05

finally we multiply the two ratios 1.5 x 2.05 = 3.09

[Gregski]

Step 14. Next for some reason I removed the Overdrive gear (ie 4th gear) I could of just as well removed the 2nd gear first, but oh well

Our 4th gear aka the Overdrive gear has only 18 teeth which results in a .73 gear ratio.

We get this by as with all the other gears, first calculating what I call the input ratio into the transmission:

33 (driven gear) teeth on the counter shaft divided by 22 (drive gear) teeth on the input shaft gear gives us a ratio of 1.5

**************** the part above always is the same and we always us 1.5 to calculate the rest of the gears ******************

then we calculate what I refer to as the output ratio out of the transmission:

18 (driven gear) teeth on the 4th overdrive gear divided by 37 (drive gear) teeth on the counter shaft gives us a ratio of .48

finally we multiply the two ratios 1.5 x .48 = .73 meaning that our output shaft spins faster than the input shaft (mind blown)

[Gregski]

Step 15. remove the snap ring that is holding the 2nd Gear in place and remove the Second gear and remaining junk off the main shaft

By the way some of these steps can be done in different order, I am just numbering them for reference

Second gear has 30 teeth yielding 1.67 gear ratio

We get this by first calculating what I call the input ratio into the transmission:

33 (driven gear) teeth on the counter shaft divided by 22 (drive gear) teeth on the input shaft gear gives us a ratio of 1.5

**************** the part above always is the same and we always us 1.5 to calculate the rest of the gears ******************

then we calculate what I refer to as the output ratio out of the transmission:

30 (driven gear) teeth on the 2nd gear divided by 27 (drive gear) teeth on the counter shaft gives us a ratio of 1.11

finally we multiply the two ratios 1.5 x 1.11 = 1.67

[Gregski]

Step 16. Remove the output shaft seal and bushing out of the extension housing

we used a perfect size socket that we wire wheeled and sanded till it was just the right size (outside diameter that is)

the aluminum housing was resting on some 2x4's when we were tapping the bushing out and not on the concrete garage floor