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#1 |
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Location: CA
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Picked up some red oak from the local hardwood store for the bed floor.
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#2 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
The original clutch pedal on this truck had an over-center helper spring since the pedal support has the upper mount for the spring. I will be going with a diaphragm clutch, so an over-center spring won't be needed. I replaced the pedal support with one that doesn't have the provision for the spring, and I added a clutch pedal to it. Disassembled and greased the bushings.
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#3 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Installed the brake booster and a Bendix combination valve I had rebuilt. Discovered that the lines I have for connecting the MC to the valve are not compatible with the Delco Moraine MC I have. I guess I need to track down an elusive Bendix 18M1036 MC.
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#4 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Ordered an ACDelco 18M1036 master cylinder from Summit, and it ended up being the type that they show in the photo instead of the single-bail style member samkost received from multiple sources. I was just going to use the single-bail style, but I was pleasantly surprised to receive the two-bail style instead. I cleaned it thoroughly and painted it this evening.
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#5 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Installed the new master cylinder. Had to shorten the booster rod by 1/8". Chucked it in a drill and shaped a new round end on it with a sanding wheel. The little lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve needed quite a bit of tweaking.
Also painted a little clip I received in the mail today that secures a brake line to the rear diff cover. Thanks again , 1970cstblazer, for finding that for me! Last edited by pjmoreland; 01-18-2025 at 02:09 AM. |
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#6 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I wonder why Brake Master Cylinders are unpainted when received new?
I guess because brake fluid is sometimes used as paint stripper. However, I wish I'd had the foresight to paimt my master cylinders when I got them, so they wouldn't have a heavy beard of rust now. Part of the problem, is the local custom [in Tucson] to leave the hood Up, when not in use, to make it a less hospitable nesting space for packrats. Thus engine assemblies, fan belts, radiator hoses, master cylinder, etc. are exposed to rapacious Sunlight.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#7 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
It is definitely a but of a hassle to avoid damaging paint on a master cylinder. I painted the MC on my other truck a few years ago, and it has held up well. I did have to touch it up early on where some fluid leaked past the lid seal. Eastwood sells some paint that is supposed to hold up against brake fluid. I suspect that might be what my rebuilt combination valve is painted with.
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#8 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I bled my brakes today. I used a reverse bleeder which pumps fluid up from the wheels. Worked quite well, and I got a firm pedal right away without even bench bleeding the master cylinder.
I discovered a leak in the front of the combination valve where the little reset button is located. I had this combination valve rebuilt by White Post, and it wasn't cheap, so I am disappointed. I replaced it with a used combination valve I got from an '80s C10 that looks basically the same. I also installed the clip that I got that secures the rear brake line to the diff cover. |
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#9 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Today I also fixed an issue that I ran into once before when converting a '67 I used to own to power brakes. The brake pedal rod was about 3/4" too short, so I added a hex coupling to it. I have no idea what causes this issue. The bellcrank mechanism in the booster bracket is very close to touching the firewall, so it's not a matter of the mechanism being too far forward. I've now got the pedal arm just barely touching the rubber bump stop, and I've got about 1/16" of clearance between the booster rod and the master cylinder.
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#10 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I also started installing the parking brake cables today. Got the front cable lubed up so that it slides freely. The clamp that secures it to the pedal assembly was missing, so I installed a reproduction clamp. Also installed a new firewall grommet. Stretched it over the end of the cable instead of slicing it.
Ran into an issue where the intermediate cable I bought (Dorman C92423) was too short by about 3". This cable measures at 61.5", which agrees with the GM parts catalog. Not sure what's going on there, but I found a Dorman C660926 or Raybestos BC96894 that is 64.88" long, so I will be ordering one of those. It's for a 2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4X4 158.0" wheelbase truck. |
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#11 |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
You've been busy, it's looking great!
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man R.I.P. FleetsidePaul |
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#12 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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#13 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Me too!!
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man R.I.P. FleetsidePaul |
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#14 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I replaced the E/Brake on my '71 Blue Jimmy last summer. Total PIA. Took over a week to figure it all out. Had to re-use some OEM parts, as LMC's chinesium wasn't right. A case of trial and error. Assemble/disassemble/reassemble/etc. until it finally worked right. The length of the LMC Cable was within 2 - 3'' of the original. I was able to adjust on the long threaded rod directly under the Driver's Left Foot underneath.
Quite happy with the results now. Of course a K/1500 '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4 has the Foot Pedal/Toggle release system of the 69/72 variety. My '68 C/10 Stepside with the Mare's Leg pull handle/ Trigger release, is different on the inside cab, but I'd bet the undersurface arangement is similar. The Orange Stepside's E/Brake cable is original, and you have to pull the handle way out for it to grip. The Jimmy's OEM cable flat out broke the end off in the cab. I should R&R the Stepside's cable before it goes...
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#15 | |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Quote:
On the '71, the front cable and the two rear cables are the originals, I believe. The intermediate cable was badly frayed and had a repair clamp on it when I got the truck. You can see it in the photo below. The right side frame rail hanger was missing, and one of the frame rail small pigtail hangers was missing, too. I have acquired the two missing pieces, but it could be that the hanger isn't the right length. If it's too short, then that would explain why the intermediate cable I got doesn't reach. If the Ford F-250 intermediate cable I ordered doesn't work, then I'll fab a longer frame hanger to make the shorter cable reach. |
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#16 |
All stock and staying that way
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As much as I detest Inl**e T**e, they seem to carry the right parking brake cables for these trucks.
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1970 K/5 Blazer CST 4WD, TOTM winner December 2024! Medium Bronze poly, 93k ACT. miles, 350, 4 speed, rear positraction, 16.5" x 8.25" HD Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM/FM, manual throttle...Dad ordered and purchased new 4/70. Currently frame off restoration finally getting close to completion.. ![]() 1970 K20, To be a clone of my Grandfather's K20, Dark Blue poly, 350, 4 speed, 16.5" X 8.25" Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM radio. Latest project truck 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 2WD, Dark Blue/White, 90K ACT. miles, 402, TH400, 4.10 open, tilt, tach, vacuum, A/C, AM/FM, manual throttle.. A mostly original paint never rusted Texas survivor... ![]() 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD, Black, 46k miles, 5.3, 6L80E, 3.42 LS, 20" polished wheels, everything but moonroof and 6.2... 2019 Canyon SLT 4WD, White, 67k miles, 3.6, 8L45, 3.23 LS, 18" wheels |
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#17 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I was tempted to order their intermediate cable, but they don't publish the length. I'll send them a message to see if they will share that information with me.
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#18 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
They said the length of their IN4434 intermediate parking brake cable is about 64", which is what I need for my truck. I will order one if the Raybestos/Ford one I ordered doesn't work out.
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#19 |
All stock and staying that way
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The cables I purchased from them were very good.
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1970 K/5 Blazer CST 4WD, TOTM winner December 2024! Medium Bronze poly, 93k ACT. miles, 350, 4 speed, rear positraction, 16.5" x 8.25" HD Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM/FM, manual throttle...Dad ordered and purchased new 4/70. Currently frame off restoration finally getting close to completion.. ![]() 1970 K20, To be a clone of my Grandfather's K20, Dark Blue poly, 350, 4 speed, 16.5" X 8.25" Kelsey Hayes wheel option, tilt, tach, vacuum, AM radio. Latest project truck 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 2WD, Dark Blue/White, 90K ACT. miles, 402, TH400, 4.10 open, tilt, tach, vacuum, A/C, AM/FM, manual throttle.. A mostly original paint never rusted Texas survivor... ![]() 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD, Black, 46k miles, 5.3, 6L80E, 3.42 LS, 20" polished wheels, everything but moonroof and 6.2... 2019 Canyon SLT 4WD, White, 67k miles, 3.6, 8L45, 3.23 LS, 18" wheels |
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#20 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I had to rebuild the Toggle Release Box. It wouldn't retract smartly.
[A Symptom that presented prior to the cable parting.] Degreased, blasted old paint and rust off. Replaced the inside springs. LockDoc had the little Spring inside the box, and Mel at Classic Heartbeat had the Spring-with-hook that pulls tension on the underside threaded rod. Firewall Grommet fell apart, got a new one from LMC. Sprayed the box satin black, lubed wear points, and reassembled it.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 01-21-2025 at 09:43 PM. |
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#21 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Cleaned up and painted the engine crossmember this evening. Removed some nuts that were booger welded to the engine perches. Also painted some other little parts.
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#22 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
Received the F-250 parking brake cable this evening. It came with some hooks attached to the ends that came off with a little tapping. This cable is supposed to be 64-7/8" long, but it's actually 65-1/4". It went on alright, although the adjuster has only about an inch of adjustment left now. The parking brake is functional and firm now, so I'm content. The Inline Tube cable at 64" would be just right.
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#23 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
And here's the parking brake pedal with the brake engaged.
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#24 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
I love your steady progress! Great work.
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Scott 1970 C10 LWB-->SWB Under Construction https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=847605 2014 2500HD DirtyMax|Daily Driver|Stock 2003 Tahoe Stock 1985 K5 5.3LS/4L60E|8Lug 4:56|3/4 Ton Front|14BFF Rear|Roll Cage|Dove-tailed & Bobbed |
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#25 |
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Re: 1971 K10 Stepside - Getting a Roller Roadworthy
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