The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Out of curiosity I looked up a turn signal lever in the GM EPC (Electronic PArts Catalog) and I see two that might fit your requirement, top and bottom, depending on Chrome or Black...but I can guess which you want. Unless you wanted to add some cruise control while you were at it. Left column is GM part number, AC Delco part number is shown to the right in the Description. Happy hunting.

I'm kind of behind the curve here. Are those levers for straight columns only or do they interchange between straight and tilt?. I need straight column parts at this time. I've got the column ripped into a hundred pieces right now.

Originally Posted by tekin112000

Please forgive my ignorance.

How do you use a nut to clean up those threads? What are the groves cut in it for.

Wouldn't putting a nut on boggered threads just leave a boggered nut and threads?

It acts just like a thread cutting die. The nut has good threads in it, and the slots that I cut allow any chips or slivers to escape. You just use a die grinder to cut slots in a new nut, then oil the threads real well and carefully work the nut onto the threads, back and forth until it spins all the way up and down the threads smoothly.

It's not ideal or the "right" way to do it, but a 14mm x1.5 die runs about 20 dollars. If I bought the die, I'd be very likely to never use it again after this repair job. So, even though its a bit of a lowbrow way to fix the threads, as you can see from the pics, it works pretty well.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm kind of behind the curve here. Are those levers for straight columns only or do they interchange between straight and tilt?. I need straight column parts at this time. I've got the column ripped into a hundred pieces right now.

To my knowledge there is no difference between tilt/fixed columns as far as turn signal switches go. I will verify when I get back home, there were RPOs associated with those levers as well, but I didn't grab them in my screen capture.

I just pulled a good solid tilt column for manual trans truck out of an '86 C30 at a wrecking yard over here...didn't know you would need or had needed one. I removed it to get to the hydraulic clutch pedal assembly.

I too have ground/sawn slots across a nut before to clean threads, as you said it is not the most ideal but it often gets the job done. If, in the future, you would prefer a die/tap and can't find one affordably check with these guys: Tacoma Screw I can walk into their store locally, so I recognize you will have shipping costs, but if you had a list of things...might be worth it for you.

[Tx Firefighter]

I really appreciate you taking the time to research and generate that page for me. I just sent a text off to my dealership parts buddy to see if he can find me a chrome lever. Haven't heard back from him yet.

In the mean time, I took the steering column all the way apart. After fixing the threads, I powdercoated the tube and painted the plastic parts. I'm going back together with it right now. I still need to get a new key and tumbler, turn signal cancel spring, and hopefully turn signal lever. But, its much, much nicer than when I began. I know, I'm geeking out on a non tilt column which is trash to most folks.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Out of curiosity I looked up a turn signal lever in the GM EPC (Electronic PArts Catalog) and I see two that might fit your requirement, top and bottom, depending on Chrome or Black...but I can guess which you want. Unless you wanted to add some cruise control while you were at it. Left column is GM part number, AC Delco part number is shown to the right in the Description. Happy hunting.

Just heard back from my buddy on the turn signal lever.

35 bucks and he has to order it.

I'll be delving into getting an AC Delco rather than a factory GM one. That's steep !

In the mean time, while I'm waiting for the paint on the steering column parts to fully cure, I went ahead and finished assembling the rearend. I'm not kidding, each brake drum/hub combo runs somewhere between 85-100 pounds, EACH !

The guys on Pirate say this rearend goes nearly 600 pounds as seen here. The wheelchair let out a noticeable yelp when I got it all put together and rolled it outside the shop.

[SCOTI]

I'd make a comment about how nice your rear is looking but that just wouldn't sit right w/either of us.

Soooooooooo........... Your assembled parts look great .

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'd make a comment about how nice your rear is looking but that just wouldn't sit right w/either of us.

Soooooooooo........... Your assembled parts look great .

I know you're very excited to see the Alcoas installed. I just need to figure out how I'm gonna lower it first. I can't use normal parts, my truck has 2.5 inch wide springs rather than the usual 3 inch dually leafs.

[83GMCK2500]

Wow! You Sir have a sexy rear end. NOT to be taken out of context of that 10.5" 14-bolt axle.

Stocking item or order? Really now? I had to order a mechanical fuel pump a couple weeks ago and a standard 4-pin HEI ignition module. They were a day out, but yeah, my dealerships don't stock crapola.

Double checked the EPC and it shows no distinction between tilt/fixed for the lever. If you need a part number or anything shoot me a msg if you don't want to bug your guy at the dealership. I enjoy hunting for parts. Example, I confirmed that steering wheel nut is M14x1.5 just by looking in the EPC, there are often times size-pitch-x-length of fasteners.

EDIT: I like to punch part numbers into ebay and google shopping to see what's available where and for how much.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Wow! You Sir have a sexy rear end. NOT to be taken out of context of that 10.5" 14-bolt axle.

Stocking item or order? Really now? I had to order a mechanical fuel pump a couple weeks ago and a standard 4-pin HEI ignition module. They were a day out, but yeah, my dealerships don't stock crapola.

Double checked the EPC and it shows no distinction between tilt/fixed for the lever. If you need a part number or anything shoot me a msg if you don't want to bug your guy at the dealership. I enjoy hunting for parts. Example, I confirmed that steering wheel nut is M14x1.5 just by looking in the EPC, there are often times size-pitch-x-length of fasteners.

EDIT: I like to punch part numbers into ebay and google shopping to see what's available where and for how much.

Really, I can't say strongly enough how much I appreciate your time and effort on this. You're going way beyond what most Internet buddies would do to help me out.

I went ahead and ordered a black AC Delco turn signal arm, key and tumbler, and both cancel springs. I stepped up a little bit and paid extra to get a Delco brand key/tumbler assembly in hopes it will be a bit better quality than the 12 dollar cheapies I usually get.



Oh well. Now I wait for delivery. I figure it will give the paint on the plastic steering column parts a little extra time to fully cure. This should be everything I need to get the column installed and in tip top shape.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I know you're very excited to see the Alcoas installed. I just need to figure out how I'm gonna lower it first. I can't use normal parts, my truck has 2.5 inch wide springs rather than the usual 3 inch dually leafs.

Mild drop right? Home built shackle/hanger set-up?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Mild drop right? Home built shackle/hanger set-up?

Yes indeed. I think I can spare about 4 inch drop before I get the tires too close to the bottom of the bed floor.

That said, I'm doing a 4/6 drop on a 95 model truck this weekend for a buddy. His truck already has drop shackles which we're replacing with stock shackles and flip kit. His drop shackles (1/2 ton) are 2.5 inches wide. I'm going to try and buy the drop shackles from him afterward to save having to build some. Then I figure I'll build front hangers to get the rest of the drop.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Yes indeed. I think I can spare about 4 inch drop before I get the tires too close to the bottom of the bed floor.

That said, I'm doing a 4/6 drop on a 95 model truck this weekend for a buddy. His truck already has drop shackles which we're replacing with stock shackles and flip kit. His drop shackles (1/2 ton) are 2.5 inches wide. I'm going to try and buy the drop shackles from him afterward to save having to build some. Then I figure I'll build front hangers to get the rest of the drop.

Yep... This is what I was thinking.

[Tx Firefighter]

I forgot to add a little tech tidbit to my post above about the rearend work.

I took these pictures for future 14 bolt builders to use as a reference. Five bucks for both boxes, one pair of each per box .





Its five bucks for all new stuff. Don't reuse your beat up old crap when new is this cheap and easy. The first picture is the washer that goes between the outer hub bearings and the lock nuts. The second picture is the lock washers that go between the two lock nuts.

If you're doing any 14 bolt work, you need to bookmark this page....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

Everything you need to know. All part numbers. All procedures.

[hardcore4life]

This, sir, is a great build. I am on a college budget and can fully appreciate the time it takes to really get things going on a project. I have enough debt from school, building a truck is not a reason to get into it. Keep up the great work and I'll keep trolling this thread. I have a K30 single rear wheel I will be building once the C10 is done. This will be a good reference. What all would I need to get to start powder coating stuff? Or would it be easier to just outsource the builds of one truck.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by hardcore4life

This, sir, is a great build. I am on a college budget and can fully appreciate the time it takes to really get things going on a project. I have enough debt from school, building a truck is not a reason to get into it. Keep up the great work and I'll keep trolling this thread. I have a K30 single rear wheel I will be building once the C10 is done. This will be a good reference. What all would I need to get to start powder coating stuff? Or would it be easier to just outsource the builds of one truck.

I've kind of been kicking around the idea of doing a big FAQ type of thread with some powdercoating info. I might wind up doing that.

Powdercoating stomps paint in the dirt. Its tougher, and its way faster.

Look at it this way. If you give me two identical parts, both in bare metal, I can powdercoat one and have it installed before the paint on the other one even comes close to curing. And it will be tougher than paint.

You could get started for 200 dollars.
-Eastwood powdercoating gun
-Craigslist oven
-infrared thermometer
-a roll of fence wire
-a roll of high temp masking tape
-a box of razor blades

Bam, you're powdercoating.

I went way beyond that to support commercial work, but that bare bones list will get you coating small to medium sized parts.

You won't find yourself buying very much aerosol spray paint after you start coating.

[Stoney]

Having the hardware plated makes the final touch. Or should I say detail.

A+

[bluex]

That axle is beautiful!

[darkhorse970]

Thats one nice looking 14 bolt! I'm bookmarking the Pirate4x4 page for my future 1 ton projects rearend.

[foamypirate]

Awesome work as always!

[Tx Firefighter]

Slow progress today. I'm doing a 4/6 drop tomorrow for a buddy and needed to go to town to get some stuff for my plasma cutter to notch the frame on that.

That also required me to move all my crap away from the shop so we will have room to work. I thought it made a neat picture, two square bodies sitting next to each other. Same generation of truck, but they couldn't be more different either.



In truck news, Fedex just now delivered the last of my new tires. My truck budget forced me to order them over a period of several paychecks so it's been a pair at a time. Now I have all six new tires.



Real exciting huh ?

Be patient, I'm getting the basics covered. Like any big project, it looks like no progress is being made, then seemingly overnight, it's done.

[flashed]

I like the 2 side by side ,I have a 74 short stepper .

[Tx Firefighter]

That's actually my 78 longbed you're seeing there. It's just disguised as a 73 short step (I cut it down). I haven't done a build thread on that one yet. The story behind that truck is quite a tale.

Once I get this truck squared away I'll get back on that one and finish it up.

[flashed]

I would like to see and hear the story on your well disguised longbed .

[TheBlueBomber]

Yea I'm building mine slow for now also. I guess 10hrs of work a week and the cancellation of drill during the shutdown kinda hit hard for the toys. Oh well.

[Tx Firefighter]

Not much truck stuff to report today. I did a 4/6 drop on my buddy Preacher Mike's truck and he gave me his leftover drop shackles to use on the dually.



I also got this bad boy. Mother of God it hurts. I ain't skeert to do my own suturing but for some reason I'm afraid to drill hole in this one. If it's still hurting tomorrow I'll have one of the strong stomached guys at the station drill a hole in it to relieve the pressure and pain.

[hardcore4life]

I had that happen when I was in AIT doing my initial entry training. A private spammed a 100 pound hood on a scraper on my pinkie. That was a cool fingernail after that hit.