86 squarebody made2drag

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 3r!c84

a case of beer and some buddys would be cheaper and faster... haha

lol, i hear ya!!! pizza would do the trick!


ive been patiently waiting for a couple buddies to be free'd up but
getting 2 guys over here at the same time is near impossible with their schedules with work and kids. the guy that helped me get it off last time hurt his back. definitely need 3 people to take it off and on without bending a lower bed side. 20 pounds more and i dont think we could have done it with just us 2

with this method, i can use it to take my beds on and off of my 86, 67 or 56 and i dont have to wait til other people are available.

if i had an extra $99 bucks i would buy an engine hoist. this will do and its unboltable so i can throw it in the barn when im not using it

[3r!c84]

You can find some pretty good deals on Craigslist For a engine hoist. Buddy picked one up a new habit fright one used on Cl for 50$ works great! But nice idea with the wood
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[watahyahknow]

there where a few times someone posted a one man lifthelp for either the cab or the bed on the website , i think one of them even sold buildplans for them

[made2drag]

cool
ive got 2 friends with eng hoists but i need my bed to bring 1 to my house....hahaha

[made2drag]

got my bed on...decided i would do an oil change....bolt tore the thin oil pan metal...
i guess i should have put antiseize on it on the last oil change...oops

[made2drag]

[54Caddy]

or not tighten it so much. Either way time to replace it so get to work!

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

or not tighten it so much. Either way time to replace it so get to work!

i know, i know...my fault for sure

[made2drag]

can i change the pan from the bottom without pulling the eng and trans?

[3r!c84]

yes you can. i did it with my 305. get the one piece felpro seal.

[54Caddy]

yeah just drop the starter and remove the flex plate cover and your good to go not to hard at all. Done it many times on these trucks

[made2drag]

YES!!!!!!
theres hope after all....thanks guys!

[made2drag]

anyone have pics or know where i can find a link with pics? i understand what you guys are saying, im just hoping for a visual aid. this is scarey for me since im not a motor guy ...so the felpro one piece seal which takes care of the rear main seal location also?

[watahyahknow]

i remember when i was young and working at a place mounting exausts and doing oilchanges
there was this old car that had an old sparkplug in place of the oilplug when i tried to unbolt it it touk out the tread as whell
after the oil was out we welded a nut to it and hoped it would hold , it leaked after i filled it with new oil so i gave it some more weld , it set the oil on fire and made things a little worse , the casr did left the garage after that but it had some realy bad welding around that nut

life and learn they say , next time i see a plug like that i dont take it out but suck the oil out trough the dipstickhole

[made2drag]

thanks for the info...i did for a split second think about welding it. the fumes would probably ignite. the other idea was to cut the bottom bowl out of a new pan and jb weld it in like a patch panel. the inside nut of the new pan would slide through the hole of the old pan. that's probably a bad idea too. looks like im gonna change the pan

[watahyahknow]

there there blind rivet type treaded thingies that might do the job in combination with jb weld to seal it off if you can find one big enough

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

there there blind rivet type treaded thingies that might do the job in combination with jb weld to seal it off if you can find one big enough

good idea, i bought some different sizes of these pipe fittings a couple hours ago (but not stainless). but i still want to change the pan in the very near future. i think i should just change the pan while its in the garage. if things get to tough, i'll patch the hole so i can drive to someone who has a lift and who can change it out.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/pl...FQsGnQod4gMA2Q



.

[watahyahknow]

should work only thing is you cant drain the oilpan completely with the pipefitting sticking up the pan , maibe you should just close it off completely
when someone drilled through the gastank making holes to mount s towinghook setup we closed it by flattening and shaping a copper coin sand down the tank around the hole
then we bought the biggest electric soldering iron we could get

and soldered the coin over the hole without the need to get the petrol out .......worked verry whell

it might work on the oilpan if you can get it clean enough for the solder to flux

[3r!c84]

Oil pans are pretty cheap don't Jerry rig it like the ideas up there^^ gotta think if your quick fix fails as your driving can loose all oil and you wont even know till its to late. And the 1 peice seal goes around the whole pan and even over the humps on the front and rear main seals. They like to be put in dry and tourqed to spec
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[watahyahknow]

treu , think about the walk back up the route to find the plug .... and the oilslick on the surface when you drop a few gallons of hot engineoil over it , you prolly would notice the red oilpressurelight on the dash once the oilpump sucks air though

[mooseknuckles]

fix it right!.....new pan and gasket...by the time that light comes on, the mains will be dry.

[54Caddy]

Originally Posted by made2drag

anyone have pics or know where i can find a link with pics? i understand what you guys are saying, im just hoping for a visual aid. this is scarey for me since im not a motor guy ...so the felpro one piece seal which takes care of the rear main seal location also?

the one piece fel pro oil pan gasket will take place of the two seperate halves from factory and it will be all one piece. Its very easy man with all the other work you have done on this truck it should be a walk in the park.

Tools Needed will be a 3/8 ratchet, a couple extensions, a swivel adapter, and both shallow and deep 7/16 and 1/2 sockets and a 9/16 to drop the starter. when i do mine i get to all bolts from underthe oil pan area except the very front 2 on each side, have to get those from the front. Once its off clean the surface area and install the four corner clips that come with the oil pan gasket, put lite silicon on the corners of gasket that will contact the bearing caps, Install gasket then pan, those clips will hold it all up. Then install all the side bolts on both sides of oil pan with new bolts included in kit.

Also when i do this job depending on what year block you have i replace the rear main seal on the 2 piece style ones. Very easy just requires a 5/8 socket and torque wrench. Let me know if you need more help man. oh and merry xmas

Heres a link to gasket you will need, if yours is the early style block
One piece oil pan gasket from Fel-Pro

[made2drag]

Thanks guys

I'm not going to risk losing my motor

Thanks for all the details 54caddy

There is a YouTube video of a guy changing one on a 95 Chevy. Doesn't look too hard. Just looks like a full saturday and a lot of grunting and hand cuts.

I'm hoping I can get a good price for a mechanic to do it. My luck I will get all but 1 bolt loose and then be stuck in the garage. I'll look at it tomorrow or thurs to see how hard it's going to be working under it with jack stands and no eng hoist
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[54Caddy]

Easy man I do them on the floor in about two hours with changing rear main seal. Tackle it man you got it. Let me know if you need any more tips i tried to explain it best I could for you
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[68Timber]

I haven't changed one in the truck before but don't mind helping if you need a hand. It shouldn't be much different than a transmission service except engine oil dripping on your face instead of tranny fluid.