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07-17-2004, 12:30 PM | #26 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Take this to the tippy top for another run.
I want to hear more about Old Air systems.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-17-2004, 02:08 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sabinal, Texas
Posts: 1,706
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*****UPDATED*****
I first bought my Old Air unit from GMC Pauls (those are the ones he sells) and kept it in for about a year. I was not happy with the way it worked. The evaporator is pretty puny for the work it is trying to do. When I was going down to Corpus Christi two years ago I might as well have had the windows down and turned it off. It collected so much condensate it would sling it around the squirrel-cage fan and blow it on my wifes feet. I had SOME restriction in the drain line but still had enough t be able to allow it to drain. The evaporator would freeze up and I had to back the temp control down so it would not. The temperature swing from the mechanical cap-tube switch was about 17 degrees. Going through Quartzite AZ @ 2 PM when it was 117 outside the cab was 102 inside...the cab is shaded by the cabover camper!and Arizona is very dry. Lets just say I have learned alot and maybe I had a lemon from them. They were helpful, yes, but if you go into their website in the forums you will no longer see the posts I had regarding my experience with this system. I NEVER said it was a POS but anything contrary to the wording contained in the post of anything shy of "extrodinary" or "exceptional" it won't be there. They don't like the negative publicity or the "honest" remarks about thier product. This is why I personally WOULD NOT recommend thier system. I can take some of the credit for installation woes but they sent it to me with a broken drain nipple which I had to glue back on (probably UPS's fault) and they sent me the wrong brackets-even though I specified BIG BLOCK and they had it the same on their invoice. I needed another idler pulley, asked for it, said "they are drop shipping it from the vendor" well, after a month, I gave up and got one from a local source. Everyone else uses the latest technology in parrallel-flow condensers. Old Air uses a modified OEM design-a piccolo style which is better(they were called tube and fin) but not as efficient as the PF design. 134A WILL work as well as R12 AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COMPONENTS! I finally went with a "King Kool" unit from air-tique.com and it was considerably more work than the "made to fit" units but I think it is demonstrably better. It is a larger evaporator than the Old Air unit had. It is a "blow-through" design like the Vintage Air units employ. I made custom controls for it usig a unit from a Chrysler 5th ave. I also have a P.I.D. electronic process controller to sense the evaporator core temperature and accurately monitor the temp to eliminate the possibility of freezing. I have several pics of the install that I can post for those who want them. I have extensive knowledge in these types of systems so e-mail me if y'all need help. I gotta go but I will be back. BTW, I am headin' out to TX, there, Mr. Firefighter so I will let y'all know how it works in San Antone! Another MUST...good insulation and a tight cab works wonders! Later Last edited by 69sixpackbee; 07-19-2004 at 12:14 PM. |
07-17-2004, 02:23 PM | #28 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
|
Please post what you have.
I'm going to be dropping a thousand bucks here, and I want to know the whole score.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-17-2004, 06:51 PM | #29 |
member #16
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Yuba City Ca.
Posts: 3,618
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This is probably what you were referring to.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=65161 another, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=64314 I found these old posts, Hope they help you.
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john http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php board vendors http://www.flickr.com/photos/1745471...7602865984234/ Last edited by john; 07-17-2004 at 07:24 PM. |
07-17-2004, 10:29 PM | #30 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Well, it's official...
I have heard people who say they have both Vintage and others with Old Air who say they suck and hate them. I have heard people who have each and say they will freeze you out of the truck, and are all smiles about their system. Very confused now.....
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-17-2004, 10:38 PM | #31 |
Glowing since 1978
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lusby,MD,USA
Posts: 532
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I must say that the Old Air unit work adequately for me. That was before the compressor seized. Even though the instructions say you can mount it straight up or 90 degrees, I would mount it straight up to avoid my problem. Here is a link to a FAQ I did on an Old Air unit installation in my 1969 C20. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=61340 I had some discussions with 69 1/2 Six Pack Bee and I will agree that the evap is not sized properly to freeze your nuts off in some circumstances. I will also say that if you don't mind the factory evap on the firewall I would use the factory evap, readjust the POA for R-134A, and put in a new condenser and drier/receiver and replace the hoses. Slap on a new compressor and be done with it. I know that sounds like a bunch of work. It's just after I did all the work on installing the aftermarket unit I found out how I could have made most of my original system work. The original evap is considerably larger than the Old Air unit. It's capable of greater heat transfer due to the area of heat transfer surface available. Utilizing the factory setup keeps all the controls factory also. No mods needed. Well I guess that is it for now. Good luck from someone who has been there. If you need more info on the POA adjustment let me know. I have an evap with the POA and TXV attached if your interested in going that route. I don't have any of the other stuff. It was tossed. Don Smith
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66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper |
07-19-2004, 11:42 AM | #32 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sabinal, Texas
Posts: 1,706
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Here is a link to the previous post about my install sans latest addition pics. I will snap some pics with the ETR-3400 temp. controller in place. I have 3 thermoucouples and can switch operation between actual evaporator core temp, vent discharge temp or actual cabin temp. I can program the hysterysis (compressor on/off differential) anywhere I want. I have it programmed right now with a 5-degree temp swing. I can also bypass this unit and go back to the Ranco mechanical defrost switch that I have mounted on the Chrysler temperature control. I was going to use the total electronic unit but that would take considerable work since I would have to install thermistor sensors in the cabin, outside the truck (for ambient and another for a humidistat--RH%) and another on the evaporator and then I would have to build a converter system since those were originally designed to operate with a "negative" switching circuit as employed through an ECM. Too much to do and not enough ambition. I have spoken extensively with ol' DD Smith and he and I have been sharing info on these systems. I do agree with him as far as the retaining & getting the factory system to operate. If you can keep it, do it. They do make POA valve retrofit kits for these trucks. You can get and internally equalized evaporator core also to work with an aftermarket TXV-type system that will suffice. Make sure you have, at a very minimum, a condenser core with a surface area of 300 sq/in especially if using 134A. MAKE SURE it is at least a "Piccolo" style or the newer parrallel flow type. Use a good thermostatically-controlled clutch fan with shroud and an electric "pusher" mounted on the condenser is a bonus. I have mine run through a relay circuit that goes on and off with the compressor clutch. It is optimal to use a fan employed by virtue of a "tri-nary" switch that is, it comes on when the system pressure gets above 250 PSI or thereabouts. Anyway the main thing is condenser size and efficiency and evaporator size and it's ability to remove the latent heat. These two items alone will make or break your A/C operability and your level of comfort in your truck. Make sure that cab is tight and insulated as best as you can. Another thing when considering retaining the factory system; you get the added benefit of "fresh" air with it as opposed to just a totally recirculating system with the aftermarket boys. These will work but be prepared to play with them a little to optimize their capability.
Good luck! |
07-19-2004, 02:16 PM | #33 | |
Collector of Projects
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Location: Las Vegas
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Quote:
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07-19-2004, 08:03 PM | #34 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: yreka, ca
Posts: 270
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Which Vintage Air system are you guys using? I'm thinking of putting one of the newer space saver units in the wife's 63. They make a custem fit model that uses the stock controls, but the 30 plus year old controls are toast. Plus I think electric servos would be more reliable over the long run than vacum controls. Any opinions?
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63 C10 70 Coronet R/T 67 C10 70 Dart Swinger 71 K10 |
07-19-2004, 09:57 PM | #35 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
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I have had vintage air in mine for about 3 years and love it...mine had factory air that never cooled worth a crap no matter how much money I threw at it. My only complaint is the fan is quite noisey when it is on high speed [because it is in the cab] but that doesn't matter much because your'e not going to leave it on high long...without wearing a parka...good luck
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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS |
07-22-2004, 12:50 PM | #36 | |
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Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 519
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Quote:
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69 C-10 LWB, 350, 700r4, 3.73 posi-traction, front disc brakes. Built for the desert- She can take the heat! Vivat Rex Chevus! |
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07-23-2004, 02:30 PM | #37 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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I have posted this a couple of times but I'll add another kudoes for V.A. ; mine is a "shure fit" unit and about a year and a half later it does still blow cold. I usually run it on low and only occasionally on high (usually when I first get in the truck). I THINK both V.A and Old air are recirculating type units so, if your truck is very leaky, you will not get AS cold as a truck that is "tighter". I thinkI have some pics of the under hood and inside if you would lik to see them. BTW, I used to live in Houston area (mega humid), and now am in the Texas hill country, it's hot in either place.
Complaints: Only complaint is with heater portion. I doesn't seem to blow hot out the regular vents as well as I would think, (defroster vents work well, though), I may not have one of the diverter doors adjusted right or something???? I'd buy it again.........V.A. is in San Antonio I think Mike
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
07-23-2004, 02:39 PM | #38 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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Here is a link to a few pics if you haven't seen them yet:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=61810
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
07-23-2004, 02:45 PM | #39 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
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I'm going to tell you again that my sure fit from vintage Air is awesome. It's 100 degrees down here in Houston and I use the low setting on my air conditioner. I've included some pics. The install was a breeze and I haven't had any problems at all!!
Shawn
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
07-23-2004, 02:46 PM | #40 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sabinal, Texas
Posts: 1,706
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BTW, yes both systems are recirc. systems. The Old air is a "suck through" design wheras the VA is a "blow through" type. Also,
I'm headin for the hill country myself this next week. Going to see the folks and hopefully seal a deal on a house in Concan. Later. |
07-23-2004, 08:32 PM | #41 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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All right fellas, tell me what dealer you bought your Vintage Air systems from. Their website says that they do not sell to the public, that you must use a V.A. dealer.
Tell me who you used and if you had any complaints about them. I'm nervous, because this isn't exactly a cheap purchase. I don't want to deal with some jokers on a 1200 dollar purchase.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
07-23-2004, 08:38 PM | #42 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA
Posts: 2,033
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That's bull. I've called their 800 # for all three of my systems. They shipped direct to me, all I needed was a credit card.
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Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com |
07-23-2004, 10:23 PM | #43 | |
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Location: Mesquite, Tx
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what dealer
Quote:
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GM 330HP/350, Magnuson 122HH, Tremec TKO 5spd |
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07-23-2004, 10:28 PM | #44 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mesquite, Tx
Posts: 396
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Just To Add, I Believe You May Get A Better Price Through A Dealer Than Direct...just Like Anywhere Else, The More You Buy The Cheaper It Is. Also Tx. Firefighter, One Of The Remaining 2 Dealers Listed In Texas May No Longer Be In Business. I Want To Say Ricks.....
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GM 330HP/350, Magnuson 122HH, Tremec TKO 5spd |
07-23-2004, 11:20 PM | #45 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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I bought mine from Steves Classic Auto Air in Houston (713) 688-3884. He charged 950.00 for the kit, 45.00 to ship, and 40.00 to charge the system. The extra 140 was for the A.C. controller that I used . It mounts in the heater controller position and uses new cables (supplied).
Shawn
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE Last edited by jorgensensc; 07-24-2004 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Added Phone number and details:) |
07-24-2004, 02:37 PM | #46 |
Red
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Llano... Texas Hill Country
Posts: 448
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I used Steve in Houston as well, about the same price, he was really willing to help with answering questions.
Shawn, NICE interior! What stereo do you have? Did you have to cut the dash? I think there are enough guys on the board that have installed the V.A. units that even if you didn't have a dealer close , we (they) could help. I think youll be pleased with V.A. My dos centavos. Mike
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'72 Cheyenne LWB 350/350 "The sun don't shine on the same dog's ass all the time." - Catfish Hunter (commenting on why he was not able to pitch another perfect game). |
07-24-2004, 02:57 PM | #47 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,005
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Mike,
Thanks for the compliment. The truck had, get this, a F*rd radio in it when I bought it, so the dash was already cut. The radio is a pioneer, not sure of the model number on it. I chose it because the silver parts are on the sides, not the whole thing. And it was symmetrical (like our dashes). The silver areas are reminenscent of old chrome knobs on the original radios. I know I probably think too deep into the aesthetics of the radio, especially since I really don't know much about the output capabilities of it. It's loud enough to overrun the Vintage system on hi without blowing out your eardrums or speakers. Thanks again. Shawn
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
07-24-2004, 03:43 PM | #48 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 80
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Busterwivell, How much did your unit
Busterwivell, How much did your unit cost you direct..I also used a dealer because V.A. website said they didn't deal direct! I dropped 1260.00 and the Pr****s at the shop ordered it all wrong and I had to wait three weeks!!
Still dont have the hose ends crimped and unit charged. Install would have been great IF I HAD GOTTEN THE RIGHT BRACKETS FOR THE COMP. Sorry...had to vent! |
07-24-2004, 03:52 PM | #49 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
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bgood,
THat is in fact a F*rd solonoid. It is a remote solonoid for my starter. It makes heat soak a non issue. I could have bought a GM version if I wanted to, but it was twice as mich and looked the exact same. A solonoid is a solonoid as far as I'm concerned.
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
07-24-2004, 05:16 PM | #50 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cypress, Tx
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here is the link that will explain everything:
http://oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm Hope it helps some. Shawn
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1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE |
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