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Old 07-31-2005, 01:18 AM   #26
boxrodz
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SCOTI, it may have been, but I can't recall the truck in StreetTrucks. But, I think it probably was the Effie that is now featured in the latest issue of Truckin. It's wearing the MT Sportsman S/Rs that GrandeRojo linked, 31x18R20s. It makes those BCs 20x15s(?) look small. Tight. IIRC, MT showcased those Sportsmans at this year's SEMA show. Those MTs are much wider than 345s. Yikes. I wonder how well a truck would track while being street driven.
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Old 07-31-2005, 04:04 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxrodz
SCOTI, it may have been, but I can't recall the truck in StreetTrucks. But, I think it probably was the Effie that is now featured in the latest issue of Truckin. It's wearing the MT Sportsman S/Rs that GrandeRojo linked, 31x18R20s. It makes those BCs 20x15s(?) look small. Tight. IIRC, MT showcased those Sportsmans at this year's SEMA show. Those MTs are much wider than 345s. Yikes. I wonder how well a truck would track while being street driven.
hes talkin about the full blown dually that was featured awhile back that had 1/2 ton suspention then went to 1 ton dually wheel then the 1/2 tons wheel were sold to a guy with a burb, k i found the feature its runnin on 20x14


heres a pic of the wheel and tires there talkin about
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Old 07-31-2005, 09:34 AM   #28
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Good find bodydropped. Holy Crap! That's a bunch of rubber under there. Frank there's your challenge. See if you can stuff a pair of those under your truck. Grande Rojo and Scoti are half way there.... I think
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Old 07-31-2005, 10:55 AM   #29
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You know, if I could have found a wheel I liked in an 18" I would have gone 18" all around. I love the cl205s I have but they only go to 10" wide.
The truck below belongs to a friend of mine. It has 17s and 18s and looks killer! (to me)
I'm just kind of in a "can't win situation" at this time and will just have to let the industry catch up with my needs.
I know I can paint or powder coat any wheel I choose but I really like the cl205s.
Also 335 or 345 would be the max I would ever consider for my particular style.
I've been keeping up with the MT tires since SEMA but not for my truck but rather my T-bucket.
A pair of 20x13 cl205s and a pair of 335/30/20 or 345/25/20 z-rated Michelins is my dream!
But if it never happens.....no big deal.
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Old 07-31-2005, 11:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodydropped
hes talkin about the full blown dually that was featured awhile back that had 1/2 ton suspention then went to 1 ton dually wheel then the 1/2 tons wheel were sold to a guy with a burb, k i found the feature its runnin on 20x14


heres a pic of the wheel and tires there talkin about
im not sure of what tire was on that truck when the pictures were taken, but it had 295/40s stretched on there for a long time. They were about as stretched as any tire I have ever seen on too wide of a rim. If he finally got some wider ones Im sure it was a drastic improvement.
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Old 07-31-2005, 12:33 PM   #31
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I guess I missed that one, BDropped. Talk 'bout deeeeep-dished. But, after what bagged74 posted, those tires look a bit stretched on those 20x14s. Do you know how wide of a tire he's running?

N2, Check out that Effie. Those MTs are unreal-wide. Truckin has a good pic of it. Let's see. To get the MTs to fit under a Fleetside. There's 'bout 14" of clearance in the fender well, and another 8" to the frame. One would probably need to move the suspension very close to the frame rails,
and probably move some of the components between the rails. Sic. I wonder if GrandeRojo has an ace up his sleeve.

7T7, Your buddy has a nice-looking truck. I like the stance. Kinda reminds me of the one below. I like the Big-Bigger staggered look. But, IMO, sometimes I think 20s in the rear are a bit overpowering especially with some sidewall. As I mentioned before, I've been trying to figure out a good wheel combo. Heck, by the time I get things figured out 225/75R15s blackwalls will be in style.
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Old 07-31-2005, 01:36 PM   #32
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Holy Sh...... This truck is one bad mo fo
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Old 07-31-2005, 01:39 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxrodz
Heck, by the time I get things figured out 225/75R15s blackwalls will be in style.
You should bring back the 50 series 15" raised white letter tires!
I think it'll catch on. You go first. hehe.
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Old 07-31-2005, 01:42 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Low84
Holy Sh...... This truck is one bad mo fo
Thanx!
Come on down and help me sand!
You to can look like a powdered doughnut at the end of the day.
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Old 07-31-2005, 02:40 PM   #35
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I checked out those MT's @ SEMA last year so I should re-word my other post.

Quote:
I have yet to see any thing larger than a 315mm in a 20" diameter that has enough sidewall to drive on but not look like a off-road tire either (< 29"). IIRC, that truck you saw in the article (StreetTrucks mag) had 315-35-20's on 20x12" wheels.

For my RestoRod, I've been looking for something w/more width than my current 295-40-20's that are on my 74. I haven't seen much. I really want a 335 ~ 345 width so if anyone knows of something w/these req's, that also has a 245-40-20 size to match for the front, let me know.
I'm anal. My 1st priority would be about matching the tread patterns. If that's not possible, they would need to be from the same manufacturer. I have enough room for those MT's since I used to have a sister set of their 31x18.5x15 MT Sportsmans on 15x15" steelies mounted on the truck. But, those Sportsmans had a matching 'front runner' & these new drag radials need something similar in a 20" diameter.
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Old 07-31-2005, 05:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bagged74
im not sure of what tire was on that truck when the pictures were taken, but it had 295/40s stretched on there for a long time. They were about as stretched as any tire I have ever seen on too wide of a rim. If he finally got some wider ones Im sure it was a drastic improvement.
sames tires are on the rims because he sold them to a guy with a layed out burb and there runnin the tires size that i posted but there a little over kill thou but still has a clean look
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:59 PM   #37
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Where did you get the upper bag mounts for the rear? Are they one off? Thats the setup Im wanting to go with on the rear, except triangulated. Are you gonna run a panhard bar on there? Im still kicking around my final ideas for the rear before I go get the bugger notched.
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Old 07-31-2005, 09:37 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by r0lf-
Where did you get the upper bag mounts for the rear? Are they one off? Thats the setup Im wanting to go with on the rear, except triangulated. Are you gonna run a panhard bar on there? Im still kicking around my final ideas for the rear before I go get the bugger notched.
Yea, those upper mounts were fab'd.
Panhard bars just never really worked well on bagged vehicles. Just to much defelection.
After running many different rear end locating devices we now use a diagonal link.
It's the bar on the top 2 links. You can run it on top or bottom but on our trucks the way the bottom front mounts are located it doesn't offer a suitable location to attach a diagonal link on the bottom bars.
The diagonal link works great! No side to side movement and very simple to install.
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:44 PM   #39
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
Thanx!
Come on down and help me sand!
You to can look like a powdered doughnut at the end of the day.
Don't tell me. Before you know it ill be knockin at your door. As a matter of fact I'm on my way

J/P
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
I'm anal. My 1st priority would be about matching the tread patterns. If that's not possible, they would need to be from the same manufacturer. ......
I support that 100%. I know it doesn't matter, but it drives me crazy if the tread doesn't match....
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Old 08-01-2005, 06:17 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
Yea, those upper mounts were fab'd.
Panhard bars just never really worked well on bagged vehicles. Just to much defelection.
After running many different rear end locating devices we now use a diagonal link.
It's the bare on the top 2 links. You can run it on top or bottom but on our trucks the way the bottom front mounts are located it doesn't offer a suitable location to attach a diagonal link on the bottom bars.
The diagonal link works great! No side to side movement and very simple to install.
I know its a simple install, a ton of drag guys use em. but it WILL break. its just a matter of time. if you are fine with using one and are willing to change it however often, then cool. It might be worth it for the ease of install and cleanliness of it.
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Old 08-01-2005, 08:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0lf-
I know its a simple install, a ton of drag guys use em. but it WILL break. its just a matter of time. if you are fine with using one and are willing to change it however often, then cool. It might be worth it for the ease of install and cleanliness of it.
We've run all sorts of rear end configurations, 4 link, 2link, 3link, Satchell link, ladder bars, wishbone, panhard, torque arm, watts link, even a bird cage on a live axel on a street car! We've found that every car and truck needs it's own little tweak to make them work right.
I know a lot of people have had problems with running diagonal links on the street. It's basically a drag car locator for straight line. Chris Alston stated that diagonal links will not work on the street. So what did we do? We ordered one of his 4 link diagonal kits and installed it on a 69 Camaro. The Camaro is used as a daily driver and in auto cross several times a month. It took about 2 weeks to break it but we then could clearly see what was needed to build a road race worthy location device. It was actually very simple. Alston's set up was affixed at two non-pivoting points, it used very small DOM tubing and very small rod ends.
It was made to flex with acceleration. I'm happy to say we have never had a diagonal link failure (knock on wood) and that 69 Camaro has 3 years 37000 miles and countless races on it. I think panhard bars work fine, but not on bagged trucks. Hell, I have a panhard bar on my T-bucket and wouldn't dream of changing it. As far as triangulating on our frames.....well, I'll let some others chime in on that topic. I can tell you I have had a triangulated set up on a narrow framed car and had to angle the bottom bars in the opposite direction to make it work well.
I'm just trying to help. It works for us.
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Old 08-01-2005, 08:43 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
..... It works for us.
That's what matters the most.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:18 PM   #44
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Wow lookin' killer.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:08 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
We've run all sorts of rear end configurations, 4 link, 2link, 3link, Satchell link, ladder bars, wishbone, panhard, torque arm, watts link, even a bird cage on a live axel on a street car! We've found that every car and truck needs it's own little tweak to make them work right.
I know a lot of people have had problems with running diagonal links on the street. It's basically a drag car locator for straight line. Chris Alston stated that diagonal links will not work on the street. So what did we do? We ordered one of his 4 link diagonal kits and installed it on a 69 Camaro. The Camaro is used as a daily driver and in auto cross several times a month. It took about 2 weeks to break it but we then could clearly see what was needed to build a road race worthy location device. It was actually very simple. Alston's set up was affixed at two non-pivoting points, it used very small DOM tubing and very small rod ends.
It was made to flex with acceleration. I'm happy to say we have never had a diagonal link failure (knock on wood) and that 69 Camaro has 3 years 37000 miles and countless races on it. I think panhard bars work fine, but not on bagged trucks. Hell, I have a panhard bar on my T-bucket and wouldn't dream of changing it. As far as triangulating on our frames.....well, I'll let some others chime in on that topic. I can tell you I have had a triangulated set up on a narrow framed car and had to angle the bottom bars in the opposite direction to make it work well.
I'm just trying to help. It works for us.

Sweet

Not trying to dog you at all, I was just wondering what your standing on it was. Looks like you have it covered
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:37 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
You should bring back the 50 series 15" raised white letter tires!
I think it'll catch on. You go first. hehe.

You may be on to something.
I'm gonna order two sets.
Send me your shipping address and I'll ship a set to you.
Don't worry, it's on me including the shipping.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:41 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
I checked out those MT's @ SEMA last year so I should re-word my other post.
.
.
.
I'm anal. My 1st priority would be about matching the tread patterns....
I follow you. I'm kinda in the same boat.
When I think I've found the right combo, the front and rears are from different manufacturers.
Best I can do is hope the sidewall and tread design is similar.
Looking for something different, I guess.
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When two halves is gone, there's nuthin left. Two nothings is nuthin. That's mathematics son.
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:05 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
We've run all sorts of rear end configurations.
.
.
.
It took about 2 weeks to break it but we then could clearly see what was needed to build a road race worthy location device. It was actually very simple.
Very ingenious. Looks mighty strong from the pics. I would guess that maybe a weld or the rod end on the left upper bar would break before the diagonal rod, but I can't imagine the force to cause that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7T7
I can tell you I have had a triangulated set up on a narrow framed car and had to angle the bottom bars in the opposite direction to make it work well.
I'm just trying to help. It works for us.
These truck frame rails are narrow. I was told that the triangulated bars needed to be, at least, 40* of separation and needed to be, at least, 70% of the lower bars.
How's your design coming along, r0lf?

One thing that's confusing: Herb Adams, the author of Chassis Engineering does not recommend a 4-link suspension for daily street-driven vehicles. I guess, it's due to the limited articulation. But, I've seen 4-links that have a good range of articulation. Many trucks/rods run parallel 4-links.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:53 AM   #49
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Look like it’s gonna be tight gonna be right !!!!! Nice Box!!!

Don’t mean to stray from this thread but,
7T7, What the hell is that on the front of differential? Looks like a brake disc. Never seen this and haven’t a clue what it is. Also what kind of cover is that, look like you could just pour the oil in as if you put gas in the tank.

I love this board, never think you’ve seen it all!!!
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:09 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by JonnyTechMech
Don’t mean to stray from this thread but,
7T7, What the hell is that on the front of differential? Looks like a brake disc. Never seen this and haven’t a clue what it is.
!!!
that is the emergency brake, pretty common set-up on street rods.
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