My weekend project

[gringoloco]

Are you just raising it 1"? I thought about doing a 1x3 rectangular tube frame, but decided that would be way too heavy.

My current idea is a little more "permanent". It involves cutting the bedside flanges off, turning them 180*, and reattaching them to the opposite bedside in the same position(albeit 3" higher) via plug welds- if that makes any sense. Same rules apply for the front panel.

The rear stake pocket posts will have to be shortened 3". It's either that, or take the corner out of the floor, but then you lose the 4 bolts at the rear crossmember that keep the sides from bowing in.

The tubs will need new holes drilled in the bedsides for the upper attachments, but bolt in the stock location on the floor.

It's only metal- right

Edit: The filler neck should not change. The tank and bedside will be in the same spacial relationship as before. I will need to figure out a new cover for the inside, as my Blazer filler cover won't fit anymore. Now I regret cutting the rear cross sill to fit it before...

[SCOTI]

Are you just raising it 1"? I thought about doing a 1x3 rectangular tube frame, but decided that would be way too heavy.

Nope.... 3" like you. I was going to get all fancy using the tubing to make a sub-frame but decided there wasn't much benefit for the work. My current plan is fairly simple: measure, cut, tack together, & drill some holes that match the bedfloor.

The rear stake pocket posts will have to be shortened 3". It's either that, or take the corner out of the floor, but then you lose the 4 bolts at the rear crossmember that keep the sides from bowing in.

Look @ a wood-floor truck. The rear floor @ the stake pocket is actually bolted together w/a simple 90° piece of metal. I was going to copy it, trim the floor as needed, & keep it simple.

The tubs will need new holes drilled in the bedsides for the upper attachments, but bolt in the stock location on the floor.

Yep, shave the small 1/8" lip on the tub & bolt it in like stock. I even have a lip I cut off an old tub as my template for where the new holes go.

The filler neck should not change. The tank and bedside will be in the same spacial relationship as before. I will need to figure out a new cover for the inside, as my Blazer filler cover won't fit anymore. Now I regret cutting the rear cross sill to fit it before...

I have my tank mounted but never made it to the filler neck portion because of other stuff that came first (mini-tubs, bed-floor patch-panels, big-brakes, Dropmember, wheels.....). I also notched the floor support for clearance but still need it since I raised my tank vs. stock (if you can call a blazer-tank in a truck 'stock'). My question was really directed @ the body 'puc' that's supposed to go directly in front of the filler neck. I'm trying to keep the fuel flow path as straight as possible.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My question was really directed @ the body 'puc' that's supposed to go directly in front of the filler neck. I'm trying to keep the fuel flow path as straight as possible.

Depends on where you mount your door(or something else?) on the bedside. I grafted in a door from an 88-98 truck- it sits behind the crossmember, so I moved the tank back as far as I could- it just clears.

I thought about mounting the tank to the under side of the top of the framerail "C", which is what I'm assuming you did, but it would cause my filler tube to run uphill. I also thought about using a 73-87 Blazer tank(they are much shallower below the framerail), but I don't think I can make it work- there simply isn't enough room for it while keeping some sort of rear crossmember or towing hitch. I may try what I have planned for my Blazer, which involves a Jeep Wrangler tank(uses the same sending unit as the 73-87 Blazer) -we'll see how it goes...

[hp1967c10]

Do you happen to know the part number and manufacture of the bags you used. I have found the 1.5" blocks and C-notch at CPP and but I was curious about the bags. I have found what I think are basically the same at airbagit.com. Thanks for the help

[gringoloco]

They are Slam Specialties RE200, 7" diameter. I have been getting them from *****************. Cheapest price and always good service...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hp1967c10

Do you happen to know the part number and manufacture of the bags you used. I have found the 1.5" blocks and C-notch at CPP and but I was curious about the bags. I have found what I think are basically the same at airbagit.com. Thanks for the help

There's many that have issues w/airbagit.com & their affiliates AIM/ChassisTech.

Go Firestones or Slams.

[Rokcrln]

Looks good but I say just section out the bed and save weight. Yes it is a bit of work but it's not like you have anything else to be working on

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Looks good but I say just section out the bed and save weight. Yes it is a bit of work but it's not like you have anything else to be working on

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Riiiight... The other project is VERY lonely... I seriously contemplated using that method due to all the body lines staying true through the whelwells, but in the end I went with the easier way, that didn't require quite so much welding. 9-out-of-10 people won't even notice it. The other 10% are boardmembers. I'll have some semi-complete pics up tomorrow.