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03-23-2008, 09:04 PM | #26 |
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Re: which one would be best?
it took a while because i had a full time job, side job, and school. As far as cost, i went alot further than you would need to go to get your first one running. All in all i had 8k in it. but thats with a new crate engine, a new 3 speed transmission ( yes i spent 600 on a new 3 speed) complete break job, complete front end linkage, with moog parts. all bolts changed out to stainless steel. new carb and intake. you get the picture. basically you dont need to spend that much to get one running.
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03-23-2008, 09:12 PM | #27 |
It'll buff out
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Blanchard,Ok
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Re: which one would be best?
yeah im planning on getting cam,intake,carb and maybe a couple more stuff but thats mostly all i plan on doing for the engine until i get it looking good
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03-23-2008, 11:26 PM | #29 |
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Location: Georgia
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Re: which one would be best?
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03-23-2008, 11:42 PM | #30 |
It'll buff out
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Blanchard,Ok
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Re: which one would be best?
Me too. Does anybody have any good ideas for a paint job it cant be to hard because i think me and my dad might do it on our own and its going to be our first one. Im thinking either flat black to give a hotrod kind of look or like a midnight blue. I dont know it would really help if you guys could give me some tips on what would look really cool.
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03-24-2008, 12:06 AM | #31 |
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Re: which one would be best?
With those mods it will run like a raped ape. Stick with a dual plane intake with a medimun rise. As far as carbs the elderbrock afb style carb worked well for my pickup. The A/F primary screws are mounted in a easy location to reach and outa the box they run great. The funnest part of the truck is the build imop. Post some pics when you pull the trigger.....!!!!!>>>>>
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1970 k20 350 4speed hd44 14b Circumventing the language filter is against site rules |
03-24-2008, 12:12 AM | #32 |
It'll buff out
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Re: which one would be best?
alright i might see if we can go take another look at it tomorrow and if i do get it i'll post some more pics i might start a thread in the project place
But how much do you think it would cost for the intake,carb, and cam |
03-24-2008, 12:21 AM | #33 | |
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Re: which one would be best?
Quote:
Intake $150 Can and lifters $200 Carb $180 Gasket set $50 Keep the oil changed often Non synthetic. You probally be able to find better prices espically in a package deal. Check jegs summit even checkers autoparts.
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1970 k20 350 4speed hd44 14b Circumventing the language filter is against site rules |
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03-24-2008, 12:28 AM | #34 |
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Re: which one would be best?
alright well im sponsored by amsoil and they have oil for trucks but i havent heard anything about if its good or not because i could get it for a pretty good price
and what kind of hp increase do you think i would get with those and do you think these would be good im going to be using it as a daily driver and i still want some power Cam and lifter kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku Intake http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku Carb dont know were the best place would be Or do you know any kits that are kind of cheap but good Last edited by allen123; 03-24-2008 at 12:40 AM. |
03-24-2008, 12:41 AM | #35 | |
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Re: which one would be best?
Quote:
As far as hp# you should have a 300 hp motor. But it will be so streetable. Stay away form cams with ultra lift and duration. You'll probally want to shift around 5500rpm. And it will smoke up the tires real good!
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1970 k20 350 4speed hd44 14b Circumventing the language filter is against site rules Last edited by milled; 03-24-2008 at 12:42 AM. |
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03-24-2008, 12:49 AM | #36 |
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Re: which one would be best?
awesome i cant wait to get to work i wont have the fastest truck at school but that is plenty of power for me i think the fastest is a 83 chevy its got around 400hp its pretty nice
Last edited by allen123; 03-24-2008 at 09:07 AM. |
03-24-2008, 02:01 AM | #37 |
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Location: Charles City IA
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Re: which one would be best?
Use Rotella T diesel truck motor, it has additives that help flat tappet cams, that you can't get in normal car oil anymore because when oil gets into the combustion chamber the additives burn and increase emissions, so the gov't reduced it, but it doesn't apply to diesel trucks because they need the additives. Dupli-color has it's Paint Shop paint that is like 10 bucks a quart or somthing cheap like that, it is a lacquer based and needs no mixing or reducing, you just strain and shoot.
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'67 C20, Under the Knife!, LWB, Eaton HO-52, Rear Coil Springs 72' GMC C2500, 350, TH400(?), Dana 60 '67 K10 4-spd., 305, SM465, Dana 44, 12 Bolt, RUST! '65 C60 292, 4 spd, 2 spd Rearend, 15' Grain Box, MINT! 09 Yukon Denali 82k Miles 6.2L/6A |
03-24-2008, 07:17 AM | #38 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: which one would be best?
that black one has something going for it that the others don't... the seller *claims* it to be a daily driver. Even though the 305 in there (5.0liter) isn't anyone's first choice... it'll probably knock down decent MPG, probably has a roller cam, and probably has less miles on it (the engine) than the other two.
The gray one... probably just needs a jump start. No crap it wont start after sitting all winter. The 67... it's sat for 22 years... it isn't ready to be a driver. that sucker will be needing brakes, all rubber lines, every fluid, u-joints... all kinds of stuff. |
03-24-2008, 07:20 AM | #39 | |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: which one would be best?
Quote:
The auto makers pushed the feds into doing it. The oil didn't cvause emissions, it caused soot, which clogged the cats on newer vehicles. |
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03-24-2008, 07:33 AM | #40 |
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Re: which one would be best?
from SoCal. I'm 17 now and have owned my truck since I was 15. Not trying to put you down, but if I was you, I would find a truck that gets better gas mileage because at this rate gas will be $4.50 a gallon at the end of the year. But don't get me wrong, I love my truck, just not as a daily driver. Just my $0.02. Good luck on what you decide on.
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Nick Old pic of my 72: http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0435co5.jpg 04 Silverado Daily Driver 68 GMC short step http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=379665 "I'll beat you to the gas station!!" |
03-24-2008, 07:48 AM | #41 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rhinelander, WI
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Re: which one would be best?
I won't get into which one is best, that has to be your and your Dad's call, taking into account what everyone else has said.
But, I'm 20, have been into trucks since highschool and earlier, and daily drive a '69 GMC to college everyday. It's my work horse, hot rod...everything. I bought it May of '07 for $100. Now, remember. This is a Wisconsin truck, something you boys down south don't have much experience with. Salt on the roads for up to 6 months of the year does some damage to the sheet metal. So, I spent the summer whacking and welding, to the best of my ability, followed by some mediocre body work, and covered it up with tractor paint. Yes, tractor paint. It's cheap. It's durable. And as long as it looks decent for a couple years, I am totally alright right it, despite what others may say. This is what she looks like now. Mind you, this is after it hit a tree on Dec. 24, and I rushed to do emergency body work and frame straightening. A month later, plates were on it, and I was driving it. She's not the prettiest, but she's mine. All in all, I have around $1,000 stuck into it all, that includes the priginal price of the truck, plus paint and body work materials, and liscense and registration for the most part. Oh, and that 3 on the tree? An absolute blast to drive, even more so when the linkage is good and tight. Even with 3.07 gears, which turns a lovely 2,000 rpms at 55 mph, she can smoke and chirp 'em just fine. I'm currently pulling 15 mpg, but thats with in town and highway driving. So, mileage isn't real bad, because it could be worse. Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to make clear that a '67-72 can be a very dependable daily driver, for a low price if you're willing to sacrafice a few creature comforts. Would I do anything differently? No, not at all. My Dad and I had a good time building it once, hitting a tree with it, build it again, and this spring/summer I'm planning another tear down, with a new engine and some more body work, with his help of course. Bottom line is, if you like it, and can afford it, go for it. Have fun, you're only in high school once. -Sam.
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1969 GMC C1500. long fleet. 307. 3 on the tree. 3.07 gears. Oliver green. Bent and bruised. Daily Driver. Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=242993 |
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03-24-2008, 08:40 AM | #42 |
It'll buff out
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Blanchard,Ok
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Re: which one would be best?
Thanks alot samwise you really helped with my decision
and lonhorn man my dad said that on the 67 the spedo said it had around 44k and how much do you think it would cost to replace the brakes,fluids,u-joints and all that stuff. just a estimate |
03-24-2008, 10:09 AM | #43 |
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Re: which one would be best?
master cylinder 30-40 bucks
slave cylinder 20 bucks each youll need 4 shoes are about 30 bucks a set youll need 2 break hoses about 50 bucks for the set break fluid 5 bucks good oil 30 bucks oil filter 10 bucks u joints are 15 bucks you shouldnt spend more than 200-300 for all that, as long as you do the work yourself |
03-24-2008, 09:39 PM | #44 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Blanchard,Ok
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Re: which one would be best?
ok i found the old ad for the 1970 swb and it had alot better description of the truck and here the description
Im more looking for a trade of some sort...my wife doesn't like the truck, it is loud yes(flowmaster) and needs paint for sure,new floor pan/rockers...has power steering, good brakes, new radiator, 350 engine, 3-speed, nice wheels and new tires...let me know what you have for trade, something a little newer that doesn't need worked on |
03-25-2008, 01:51 AM | #46 |
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Re: which one would be best?
remember, the speedos can flip over, it could be 144000, 244000, etc. you can't tell like on a new one.
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'67 C20, Under the Knife!, LWB, Eaton HO-52, Rear Coil Springs 72' GMC C2500, 350, TH400(?), Dana 60 '67 K10 4-spd., 305, SM465, Dana 44, 12 Bolt, RUST! '65 C60 292, 4 spd, 2 spd Rearend, 15' Grain Box, MINT! 09 Yukon Denali 82k Miles 6.2L/6A |
03-25-2008, 03:49 AM | #47 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Blanchard,Ok
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Re: which one would be best?
well... i got some bad news. I went back to go look at the 67 and when i got there it was sold. I had it all planned out to. Oh well and i also went and looked at the 70 swb and its missing the tailgate, the rockers aren't installed and it wasn't in to great of shape.
But i found this truck and its still for sale. It was painted about 6 months ago, engine and transmission were rebuilt they have around 14,000 miles on them, he said there wasn't any rust and the body is straight. Heres the link http://stillwater.craigslist.org/car/581173435.html And thanks alot thebrown83 for taking the time to put all of those links |
03-25-2008, 04:10 AM | #48 |
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Re: which one would be best?
I would look in to the last truck you posted
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My Rides 1969 Mustang gt coupe 1971 Chevy Cheyenne 1986 Iroc camaro 1986 K10 Short Bed 1987 Iroc Camaro 1990 rs Camaro 1992 350 ss truck 1998 Honda Civic 2005 Ram 2500 Cummins My Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=279831 |
03-25-2008, 04:14 AM | #49 |
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Re: which one would be best?
I think me and my dad might go look at it sometime this week if he isn't to busy
I think it would look really really good with a 4/6 drop and cragar ss rims im not sure what size though idk 18's would be to big |
03-25-2008, 06:14 AM | #50 |
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Re: which one would be best?
Looks like the body line on the passenger side fender and door are off by 1/2". Look over any repaint closely, especially fresh ones
You can also use a low power fridge magnet on suspect areas, ( if it doesn't stick bondo time) just so you know what you're getting in to. For 3 gees you should beable to get a nice truck wait it out.
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1970 k20 350 4speed hd44 14b Circumventing the language filter is against site rules |
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